JohnCh

Hi KitKat, that's fine. Just go through the steps above and when PayPal's login page launches, have her sign in with her credentials and complete the process. Thanks, John

This is a duplicate of a post made Wednesday in the Club Matters forum; a forum only visible to Paid Club Members. The data shows that since that initial post, 2/3 of the Paid Club Members who have visited the site, have not read the thread. This may be due to the location in that forum, a too benign thread title, or just the fact that smart people avoid my threads. Regardless, this is important information for Paid Club Members, hence this repost to the General forum and revised title. Please note: this only applies to people who are currently in the Paid Club Member usergroup. And now for the important stuff: While doing a little analysis we discovered that a bug from 10 years ago is not properly enforcing Paid Membership status, which is designated by the Paid Club Member usergroup. Approximately 90 users who have been members of the forum for over 10 years, but whose Paid Membership dues are not current, have not correctly reverted back to the Registered usergroup. In many cases the paid membership lapsed because the person never saw the renewal reminder or it failed to send. In others, it's because they no longer participate in the forum, or simply chose not to renew. To make things fair for the people who are current, we are undergoing a cleanup process next week. This post shows how to check if your dues are up to date, and explains what happens if they are not and your usergroup is changed to Registered. Note: this is not an effort to collect back dues. It's simply an effort to ensure Paid Club Members are in fact Paid Club Members. How do I see if my dues are current? Follow this link to the Paid Subscription page. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/payments.php You may also access it by clicking Settings at the top right of any forum page, then clicking the Paid Subscriptions link under My Account midway down the left hand navigation. If you have made a payment since late 2010, you will see a box at the top labeled Active Subscriptions that shows your subscription's start and expiry date (circled in red below). If the expiry date is in the future, you are current. If it's in the past, you are not. If you do not have the Active Subscriptions box, then your last payment was made prior to late 2010 and you are not current. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=17848&d=1605153276 What if I'm not current and want to renew? If you opt to renew and remain a Club Member, simply click into the dropdown box on the Paid Subscriptions page, select $20, click Order, then click Order Using PayPal on the following page. PayPal is currently the only payment method the club can accept, however, their Guest option will enable you to input any credit card without having a PayPal account. What if I'm not current, but choose not to renew? If your dues are not current when we perform the cleanup process, your usergroup will revert to Registered. This has two key implications: First, you can no longer start a thread in the Cars for Sale / Wanted forum, although you can still reply to those threads. Second, your message box limit will reduce from 500 to 50. If you have more than 50 messages, you will be unable to send PMs until you delete the excess messages. However, your ability to receive new PMs will not be affected. To check your total stored messages, go to the Message page (http://www.usa7s.net/vb/private.php) and scroll down to the Folders Control box at the bottom. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks, John

Andy, that makes sense and I missed that data point, but the size of the delta really surprises me. I may have simply never noticed this before when researching other tires and such a difference may not be that uncommon. Now I'm intrigued and will have to research it Regardless, any tire available in 13" in this country is worthy of celebration. -John

The treadwear rating on these tires is interesting. Both 13" sizes and two of the three 14" sizes are 460, but the remainder -- and they go up to 20" -- are either 240 or 260. I don't recall seeing such a dramatic spread for the same tire based on size. I can't link directly to the page, but if you go here and click on Specifications, you can see the details. -John

He'll need access to the ECU if he's making any deviation from the factory configuration: different cams, cam timing, compression ratio, etc that require map alterations, or if he's simply planning to put it on the dyno to optimize the torque curve, idle, or drivability for your specific engine. Dyno tuning is always a good idea, particularly if you have a person who knowns what he's doing. If, however, the shop is only reassembling the head and timing the cams, that's purely mechanical work and doesn't require ECU access. To complicate matters, Caterham generally delivered locked ECUs, so access may not even be an option. Someone here should know the answer for your particular unit. -John

Have you adjusted the gap yet? If not, that may be the answer. As per this post on WSCC, the person had the same issue with an Omex. Reducing the gap from 0.9mm to the recommended 0.3-0.5mm resulted in Stat Sync'd changing to on: https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/130245-no-spark-intermittent/?do=findComment&comment=1385171 -John

The fact you can see the teeth is good. The part that still confuses me though is the fact the ECU is reading an engine speed, but it's wildly off and seems to vary. Does the Omex have a setting for different sensor types (e.g. Inductive, Hall effect)? Perhaps that is set incorrectly? -John

rzempel, I shared your confusion. After doing some research, I finally found this photo of the setup. Rather than use the flywheel teeth with a reference peg like some cars, there is a large 36-1 wheel that bolts to the face of the flywheel. -John

Just did a little research. The only cars I'm familiar with that mount the CPS adjacent to the flywheel operate differently than the Zetec. I see now that Ford fits a separate trigger wheel, so my earlier comments are way off base. In addition to the wiring checks Andy suggests, make sure that the signal wires for the CPS aren't too close to the coil pack. That can be a bad combination for interference. -John

I just checked out your Instagram. I've done a lot of touring in the middle of nowhere over the years, but have never come across such an honest sign. It's a classic! Where was this taken? -John

What is the history of this engine? Was it previously running an ECU with the CPS in the back? If not, and I may be clutching at straws here, but did all Zetecs use the ring gear for the trigger wheel, or did some variants use a trigger wheel on the crank pulley? If there is a mix, then I wonder if your ring gear doesn't have some type of reference marker to tell the ECU which tooth corresponds to TDC? Second long shot; does the OMEX has an adjustment for the trigger wheel tooth count? If so, does it correspond the count on the ring gear? -John

You mention a faulty turn signal as well. Do any of the other lights (running, F/R signals, side lights) have issues? Have you checked the fuse box for a faulty connection? Curious if the fan issue is also lack of 12v+ reaching the switch or motor? -John

Pokey must be shaking his head in disbelief as he reads this Congrats on making it through Utah's arduous process! -John

If your current career doesn't work out, you have a promising future in garage design -- very nicely done! -John

Atterbud, there is upcoming event at NJ Motorsport Park that will have a wide variety of cars on hand. Might be worth the drive. -John

I could have sworn the made changes to the collector plate around 10 years ago making it far more widely available. Thanks for the correction. -John

It should be easier to get the waiver these days. Back in 2008, the state didn't like cars running around without a front plate and spent quite a bit of time looking for reasons to deny a request. Since then, they've added a Collector plate option for cars 30+ years old, and don't even issue a front plate for those registrations. -John

I received a front plate waiver for my car in late 2008. WSP initially denied the request due to feedback from, of all things, a bike-engined Caterham dealer in Canada. I wrote an appeal explaining why that input source was not applicable, provided photos, then waited a month while WSP contacted a US Westfield dealer, the US Westfield distributor, and the UK headquarters, before eventually granting my request. The official waiver letter must be kept in the car and presented with my registration if I am pulled over for that transgression. However, after nearly 20 years of se7en ownership in WA with no front plate, I think it's a non issue for our cars. Fun to have though... And congratulations Greg. Looking forward to your upgrade thread, which I have a feeling will happen in the not-to-distant future. -John

James, would you mind sharing with me too, please? I just completed a long, somewhat painful, 2.0L build using Kent DTEC20 cams which are halfway between the DTEC10 in the R400/420 and the DTEC35 in the R500. Based on other input, I reused the Kent single coil springs from my prior build (Kent DTEC10), which are apparently the old R500 springs prone to failure, so I'm, um...concerned. Thanks, John

Since Croc had the last word, I really shouldn't say anything more -John

Mazda's post on the creation of this sub forum is here. It's been around for over 10 years, yet this community remains a bastion of civility in an increasingly divisive online world. That's not because we don't have a space to air opinions on polarizing topics, It's because each of you choose to treat other members with respect. We may not all share the same religious beliefs, political ideology, or opinion of NASCAR, but we haven't let that get in the way of finding common ground in all things se7en. Maybe if more people found joy in hustling a featherweight car down a winding road, the world would be a better place. And if you agree with that sentiment, please feel free to write my name down on your ballot this November -John

It's not just BlatChat, I've seen them on WSCC as well. In keeping with spirit of the UK forums commenting on US politics, perhaps we should focus this thread on Boris and Brexit? :jester: -John

I wish I had heard of this issue prior to my rebuild. Neither Raceline nor Kent mentioned it and Kent does sell double spring kits for their cams more extreme than the DTEC35. Were the failures on track day cars that spent a lot of time north of 8000rpm, or did the issue also affect street cars that just saw brief forays to high revs in the lower gears? Thanks, John

Croc, how noticeable is the weight difference between the engines when changing direction? Is it subtle, or an obvious improvement? Thanks, John

The person with whom you spoke clearly isn't familiar with the R500. The engine makes peak power at 8500rpm, so recommending you swap to a 2.3L head to achieve 7500rpm is, um...bollocks. The heads have a casting number above the exhaust ports that can be used to identify which version you have, however, I'm pretty sure Caterham fitted a CNC-ported variant to the R500. Is the plan to do a full rebuild? The R500 uses the Kent DTEC35 cams. Rumor has it these are made to specifications developed by Raceline who then supplies them to Caterham. The valve springs should be the Kent VSK31. Pete at Raceline is a really good, helpful guy. If you can't get definitive answers from others, you could give him a call at the workshop number to discuss. They might also supply Caterham with the other engine internals and could get you what you need. https://www.raceline.co.uk/ -John