JohnCh

It looks like COVID is impacting my ability to run the new engine on a dyno. This is less of a concern for the injection map, which I can get pretty close through data logging, and more a concern with the ignition map. Given timing was intentionally set conservatively to account for the increase in compression ratio, I know there is room for improvement in that map, but my ECU's inability to natively work with a knock sensor means I don't have a safe way to experiment on the street. Does anyone know of a standalone knock sensor that does logging I could investigate? Alternatively any experience with the standalone units that simply flash a light as detonation is sensed? At this point I'm less concerned with establishing a final full throttle, high rpm ignition map, and more concerned with optimizing light to medium throttle below 5000 rpm, so I suspect that type of simpler system could suffice. Although as this thread proves, I've been wrong before. BTW drivability is great. If someone were to tell me that the injection and ignition map were already optimized, I'd have no reason to disbelieve them, but since I know that's not the case, I'd love to see if timing changes could bump up the low end or improve part throttle acceleration. Thanks, John

Please tell me you brought the video gear? I would love to hear that straight six running up to 8000rpm! Is that the factory air filtration setup or did they use a cold air induction box? -John

Do you think she will be more upset by the amount of money you spent on the car, or the fact that you have secret money? :jester: When it comes to spending on the cars, I'm a big believer in embracing ignorance. -John

The engine isn't even broken in yet and you're already thinking about upgrades. That's the se7en spirit! -John

It seems it would be easy to make a set cut down from side curtains so they retain the factory attachment points and can be opened via the hinges to aid access. Not that I'm volunteering to perform that experiment. Pokey, need a winter project? -John

Sometimes form needs to follow function Does anyone here use half doors? I've heard that they do a good job of reducing turbulence and they should help keep things out of the car. -John

Harry's Garage also has a great piece with Murray. I'm generally not a fan of supercars, but the original F1 and this car are exceptions. If I had bought Amazon stock when it IPO'd in '97, or had the good sense to be born into extreme wealth, I would be on the waiting list. -John

I also have a Ballistic that replaced a PC680. After about 3 years of use, the battery started to have an occasional issue holding a charge for more than 2-3 weeks and was proactively replaced given Ballistic was having a sale at the time. That second Ballistic is still going strong more than 5 years later, but it is kept on a conditioner in the winter when the car sees intermittent use. It's interesting to have a battery that is easily picked up with just two fingers, yet is capable of starting the car after it's sat outside overnight in mid 30F weather. When this battery eventually dies, another Lithium unit will replace it. I'm a convert. -John

The Aristowax showed up Saturday. It does add a visible shine to the carbon fiber, and although I doubt it will last long, particularly on the seats, it is very easy to apply: spray on, wipe off, have a beer. And I like beer, so I'm fine with repeating that process often. -John

Bob, I used to live in SB. By any chance are you referring to Ward Memorial Blvd? For the rest of you, it's effectively a freeway with no onramps for quite a stretch. Perfect for high speed testing. Not that I ever did that... I was taken for a spirited ride in '67 Miura back in the mid 80's. I still remember the howl of the engine as the car approached redline in third gear, and the sight of the triple choke Webers filling up half the view out the rear window. Good stuff! -John

I finally had time to do a little data logging and tuning this morning. On the way home from the baseline run to establish how far off the current injection map is from target, I caught up to a beautiful Miura S that had turned down my street. It's one of my favorite cars, so I carried on past my driveway and followed him for 5 miles until he turned into the local supermarket. We had a short chat after which the phone came out and pictures were taken. (cue Mike or Sean to make the obligatory Stalker joke ) Had a bit of a concern though when leaving the lot. I nailed it down the access road that leads to the main road, but as I approached the stop sign and threw in the clutch, the engine switched off. It fired back up immediately and continued to run flawlessly, but that's a potential concern. The map was unsurprisingly lean, so after looking through the logs I made some changes and headed back out. Much better, and according to the subsequent logs, much closer to target. Taking the car up to 7500rpm revealed it has exactly the character I was after. It reminds me of an old 911, just a hell of a lot faster. No sudden feeling that the engine has come on the cam, rather a relentless increase in power the higher up the tach it goes. Can't wait to get this thing on the dyno to dial in the timing and optimize the injection map. -John

How much room do you need to free up? Massive Performance makes a low profile filler cap that might be enough. There may be similar options available from others or you could have someone 3D print a cap that provides necessary clearance. -John

Just did a little digging and it appears the 310 uses the stock Ford intake with a MAF sensor, so it looks like the MAP is definitely intended as a barometric sensor. -John

I'm not sure how the Sigma is set up in the 310. An ECU can be setup to use a MAP sensor as you indicate, and what I referenced earlier with air density within the intake. However, if you are running a Throttle Position Sensor, which many people do, you can then use a MAP sensor as a barometric sensor to identify the ambient air density -- i.e. altitude. The ECU then compares this reading to sea level and adjusts the fueling table based on a look up table. This is helpful if you tour and go through mountain passes -- or if you live in the mountains and head down to the seashore. I B Sevener is using the MAP sensor (or at least the pictured MAP sensor) in that capacity. If it were determining the air density within the intake to establish A/F based on amount of air passing through the throttle, then the vacuum port would need to be attached to the intake. -John

Dave, is the MAP sensor used as a barometric sensor to adjust for elevation changes, or is it in lieu of a Throttle Position Sensor to feed intake air density information to the ECU for A/F ratios? I B Sevener's setup is the former and why it can be left open to atmosphere. -John

See this thread on BlatChat. It has the settings for a stock Supersprint (post #2) and feedback from folks on issues they've chased and what jetting worked best. -John

Someone here may know the correct jetting for the Supersprint spec engine. If not, I'd try BlatChat for that info. Someone in your car's past may have tried to "improve" things by playing around with chokes, various jets, or emulsion tubes, and screwed things up. I've even heard from someone who discovered a random PO had changed the emulsion tube in just one carb, creating a mismatch. Always good to know if your starting point is correct. -John

I've had three cars with DCOEs, including a Crossflow similar to yours (1700cc, Kent 234 cam). None of them had the issue you describe. The closest was a built Alfa that used new casting DCOEs with progression holes that didn't work well with the engine, and would go through a rich/lean/rich cycle when cruising around 3000rpm. Have you already verified the basic settings are correct? Float height, various jets and emulsion tubes? Have you synchronized the carbs? Checked for air leaks when they attach to the manifold? Confirmed timing is correct? Occam's Razor doesn't seem to apply to DCOEs, so even if you find several of these things out of whack, you could still need a rebuild. -John

If the JPG files are under 2mb, please send me a PM and I'll see if I can figure out what's going on. Thanks, John

Welcome Brittex! I don't have any experience with wireless buttons (I'm using a wired approach), but FREEwheel is very popular in Westfield circles in the UK. If you are only considering wireless to accommodate the quick release feature, another option is this quick release from Spa Technique which can be configured with either 8 or 12 pins to support steering wheel buttons. -John

It's hard not to love the sound of a crossflow driven in anger! Thanks for sharing. -John

To celebrate the engine breaking the 500 mile barrier today, the break-in oil was swapped for 5w-40 synthetic per SBD's recommendation. This appears to have solved my low oil pressure issue at hot idle. During the subsequent test drive, I made a brief foray into higher rpm, hitting 6500 rpm in second, and using *maybe* 3/4 throttle. The engine feels like it's getting into its zone over 5000 rpm, which is what I was after. Although the plan is to leave the safe, starter ignition map alone until the car gets on the dyno in a couple of weeks, I may do a little data logging in the morning and make inroads on the fueling map at heavier throttle. -John

Thanks for the tip Sean! Just ordered a can from Amazon and will try it on my seats when it arrives. After 15 years, the Mogs are looking a little tired. -John

See Croc's definitive thread here. I'm using a DJI Osmo Action Camera w/Cynova 3.5mm mic adapter, Audio-Technica Pro 24 CM microphone w/ Movo WS1 Furry Microphone Windscreen (aka dead cat), and Manfrotto Super Clamp all per Mike's recommendations. My setup also uses a mini ball head, tripod mount adapter for GoPro/Osmo, and an extension cable for the mic which is taped inside the tub below my left elbow. There is a lot of driveline noise in the background thanks to a complete absence of carpet, cushy seats, or anything else to absorb those frequencies, but I'm still experimenting. -John

It was a little more than that. One of the wires in the injector harness connector wasn't fully seated. You could see the rubber seal sticking out the back. With the plastic cover inside the connector removed, and that pin fully seated, we noticed it was still a couple of mm shorter than the five other pins. Now whether that's an issue with the connector itself, or that pin is physically shorter, is an open question. Regardless, it now makes the connection and consistently fires the injector on #1. If there isn't an occasional electrical issue, it can't be British :jester: -John