MHKflyer52

Just amazing. Having used and driven a Bobcat that is one operator how know his machine. :driving:

I would have to agree that it is most likely your clutch needs adjustment as they do wear with use especially with a cable actuated system. If it where the trans mounts and engine mounts then the shift lever would be binding on the trans tunnel and you would have other issues if it was either of those things. Just my belief. Hope this helps.

Now that made my day and has me laughing and one of the reasons I built my rear fenders the way I did as seen in this photo. :driving:

Any good motorcycle shop will have generic bellows that can be fitted to your application or you can order them from Moss Motors here is the link item 4 http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29018#top or Victoria British here is the link to the boots item 11 page 84 http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=84 or even here http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n%3A15731591 Hope this helps. :driving:

You are correct Bill S. so here is that description of my 7. SOLD 1963 Lotus 7 Replica for SALE asking $12500.00 Built by: Rellek Power Master / Martin Keller Build start date: May 2003 Build completion date: Feb 2005 Current Title and Registration: State of California (date issued 07-19-07) (No Restrictions & Smog Exempt) as a 1963 Lotus 7 (8846 miles since completion of build car still being driven on weekends when I have the time.) Originally titled in Oregon (Feb 2005) and transferred to California in 2007. Engine: 1800cc BMC (MGB) with a down draft Weber and custom header. Trans: 1974 MGB GT (four speed synchronized) Rear differential: 1974 MGB GT (Tube type / drum brakes) (modified, four link / panhard) Front Spindles: 1974 MGB Kingpins (disc brakes) Frame: Custom built by Martin Keller, 1”x1”x.065”W tubing (Boxed trans tunnel, steel floor, extra frame members for strength and rigidity.) Front A-Arms: Custom made to fit MGB kingpins and hubs Gas Tank: 5.5 gallon spun Aluminum Tank Nose cone is fiberglass and side and rear skins are Aluminum, Shuttle (dash) is steel. Fenders are steel. Seats: Kirkey Seats, driver side is adjustable, passenger side fixed, both with five point harness. Electrical: Painless wiring system, all lights and switches work Gauges: MGB tachometer and speedometer and generic oil press, elect, water temp and fuel, turn signals and four way flashers. Weather Gear: None (just not necessary in Southern California) Contact Martin Keller @ MHKflyer52@gmail.com or phone 1-503-201-1952 (cell) M-S 9am-9pm All offers will be considered. :driving:

Still for sale and open to serious offers or interesting trades. :driving:

That is just way cool. :driving:

The start of a TV Series maybe......:rofl:.....Simon Cowell Autocross Challange.....:rofl:.... If so I want a royalty for the idea.....like that will happen.... :driving:

Ade that is one very nice MGA you have. :driving:

That is so COOL. Who is the manufacture of the micro 7. :driving:

Hi Mondo, Did you not build that truck for your daughter a couple of years ago. Sure is nice now. :driving:

Ade, You should post up some more photos of it as most of the members here would enjoy seeing them as I would even if it is not a 7. :driving:

Try this company. Drive Line Service of West Sacramento 800-332-2800 704 Houston Street West Sacramento, CA 95691 You might also look for a drive line shop near you. Hope this helps. :driving:

Not to be critical but a photo or two of the part you need to replace might help. :driving:

Very nice. One of the sexiest looking MG's ever made in my belief. Is it a twin cam by chance. :driving:

Man I want one of those time machines that xcarguy has. His session 5 title is "MSR Cresson 1.7 ccw Apex Driving Academy 09-13-14" :rofl: Just could not resist. Nice clips. :driving:

So that is what buzzed by me back there....:jester:....

Why not make a couple of spacers and a plate that would connect to the drag link and shock mount something like what I have shown in the attached jpeg. It would help reduce the load on the spacer and bolt at the hub face I do believe and still let you have adjust ability due to the bushing in the lower drag link mount. Just an idea to solve the issue. Hope this helps. :driving:

I though it was the white socks that make it pop and the white trailers in the back round.....:rofl:..... I know I should not talk about white socks but I could not resist an know not to be critical of other seveners and their attire as I am not the flashiest dresser in the world either and John, Steve an Karl would make me look like a bum if I where to be photographed on a hot an humid day like they where. :driving:

Shim stock can be purchased from McMaster-Carr here is the link http://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=oiue3o I also agree with Jon W. that the spacer must be square to the hubs mating surface to reduce the shear loading at the mating point of contact and the bore as closes to the diameter of the bolt that passes through it and torqued to the maximum torque for the bolt to help reduce the shear load by presenting a larger surface to carry the load. Hope this helps.

Hi Jim, Just read your post and looked at the photo of the broken long bolt and the control link end. It would be good to see the part that broke off and a close up photo of both to see if one can determine if the arm failed first or the bolt failed causing the arm to break and bend. Just a thought but the long bolt seems to be under a lot of load stress by having the hiem joint so far from the hub carrier. I would make the spacer that is shown in rnr's photo larger in diameter and out of steel and not aluminum as the aluminum will tend to flex more and help cause a shear failure at the hub carrier but that is just my belief and with out seeing the parts first hand is just a guess on my behalf. Also make the spacers thru bore as close as possible to the diameter of the bolt so the bolt has as little slop in it as you can. You might have to add shim material to the bore once you install the spacer to take up the slop needed to get over the threads if you stay with that setup. Hope this helps. :driving:

It is amazing to me that the driver of the car never moved his hands on the steering wheel and that you could hardly see the right hand move when flicking the paddle shiftier to change gears. Porsche has said the only reason that they are still producing a manual transmission is for the US market due to the popularity and the belief of the American buyer that a sports car has to have a manual transmission. This clip sure shows that the PDK trans in a professional drivers hands is very smooth and fast for sure. :driving:

Hi Alex, Will do and I will check out your site. :driving:

Hi Alex, First as I said in the previous post seems to be a good idea if it is simple and easy which it looks like it might be from the screen shots you posted. On a side note I like the Miata in the back round photos and would like to have the hard top for my 96 as it matches the color. Would the end user have the ability to set the back round photo to one of their chose or would that not be an option as I would think that would make it more personalized for the end user and type of vehicle if it is available. Also what is the projected price point of the program if an end user wishes to use what your developing? Would there be a pro version available say for a business? Would the information be stored on your site or on the users hard drive or both and what security for that information would be afforded to the end user? These are just some of the things that come to mind for me and would most likely also be of similar questions for others who might like to use your program once it is available. Again I think it seems to be a good idea and I would even consider it from what I have seen. :driving:

Hi Tom, Sounds like you might have a tire that is separating from the cords internally. Do you have a set of road wheels and tires that you could put on and see if the vibration goes away. Just a thought but when was the last time you checked the drive shaft connections as a loose flange or missing bolt and nut could also cause the vibrations. Hope this helps. :driving: