ashyers

If you use Easimap you can check to verify you're covering throttle sites 0-15. If the orig. tune set the idle at site 0 then you just need to make sure you're getting to site 15 at WOT.

Looks like you're still starting at the same throttle site, so you should be OK to test things out. Does your map have throttle sites 0-15?

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Be careful changing the TPS position w/o looking at the map. You could end up in a new column for fueling and ignition and give yourself some unintended headaches. Since you can view the fuel/ign maps, see where the breakpoint is for idle and note it before you mess with the TPS. That way you can see what you can get away with in rotating the TPS and can reset if necessary. Remember the TPS baseline is a reference point for the mapping. Were you able to find the P/N for the current TPS and order one? (Edit: Looks like you did, please list the P/N for future reference )

I'm with Croc on this, don't mess with the mapping. I think your TPS is toast. Here's what I'd do: * Record the voltage value of the current TPS at closed throttle with the engine off so you can reset it's position w/o messing up the mapping, or install a new one in the correct position once you've determined if it's dead. * Pull the TPS and run it through it's paces on a bench with the DVOM to ensure it's the issue. * If it proves to be toast figure out what obscure vehicle Caterham chose to pull the TPS from and pick one up, hopefully at your local parts store. * Install the new TPS and reset the voltage at closed throttle to match the old TPS. Hopefully it's not the harness!!!!

That last log doesn't look good. There is a possibility the TPS is dropping off the low side of the sensor pads when the throttles are pulled closed decelerating. Check the TPS setting and try your test while pushing the throttles closed and see if you get the bad signal. If not I think you're looking at either a bad TPS or wiring. Is the TPS a standard street car part?

Log the TPS with the engine off and ECU on. A nice gradual sweep of the throttle give you a quick indication of the condition of the guts in the TPS. You shouldn't see any spikey data in the log. As far as soldering terminals, I'd strongly suggest you don't. Unless you're damn good the solder will wick into the wire, embrittle it and you'll induce a failure. Andy

I'd watch the TPS live with the engine off and see if you can cause it to go wonky while working the throttle. If you can, I suspect it has a dead spot.

The lock is standard. It's sold by these guys: https://www.gorilla-auto.com/cap-locks-cap-screws I purchased a set for some 16x7 wheels to get a key since the original owner lost the key.

"I can only assume no movement, but how can I know for sure?" If there is movement it will likely show up as galling/wear on the clamping surfaces. That would indicate a loss of clampload do to some part in the stack yielding.

jeffs, The TPS could be going downhill. That would cause the mixture to go bonkers. You could check the signal with a meter and see if you get a clean sweep from idle to WOT. Andy

Between the inner shell of the bushing and the bolt/washer/chassis.

Any signs of relative movement between the clamped surfaces?

jeffs, If you have an infrared thermometer you can check the header tubes to see if it's dropped a cylinder. A somewhat cruder method is to flick a bit of water on the tubes and try and determine if you have a cold one. In addition check the harness connection at the coolant temp sensor. If it's sending wonky values occasionally that will seriously mess up the fueling. What MBE/easymap system are you running? Andy

CarlB thanks for the help. Here's the magic tool I used. A bit of corrosion on the stud of the spindle bonded that sucker to the bearing quite well. I'm shocked how hard it was to remove. Needless to say it was reassembled with some antiseize. As far as the nuts, I machined some top hat bushings and used some 1/2-20 jet nuts I had on hand to replace the factory's set up. I replaced the factory spherical bearings with some NHBB bearings. These made quite a difference in the steering since they have low breakaway torque. One of my favorite parts of the car is the steering feel and it's now even better . Andy

Have you used some rotor paint to see where your temps are? Andy

I'll often say "FUN!" followed by "It's a go-kart with plates!".

Hi All, I'm replacing the spherical bearing in the lower control arm of my '03 SV. The threaded portion of the spindle seems to have permanently attached itself to the ID of the bearing and whatever spacer is in there. My '03 uses the special machined lower nut (now obsolete) and a spacer between the top of the bearing's ball and the spindle. I'm guessing that there's also a sleeve of some sort in that is preventing the removal of the control arm from the spindle. Anyone have any tricks, besides anti-seize on reassembly ! Thanks, Andy

John, It was a Pace dry sump, but I have a Raceline sump in the Shop. They're very similar as far as the scraper and windage setup. I chucked the studs up in the lathe and trimmed them a bit for clearance. I suspect you could do the same with the bolt's heads with no ill effects. Andy

John, Looks like fun! If it makes you feel any better, I had to trim a few of the ARP studs to fit the dry sump to my engine. They needed to be flush with the pan rails so the scraper and windage tray would fit. I look forward to seeing how this all works out. It should be a really fun engine, big displacement and revs . Andy

It appears to have A/C!

Check to see that the washers used to center the A-frame in the chassis are not rubbing on the OD of the A-frame that retains the bushings. If set up incorrectly they will make quite the racket!

I was watching that exact video last night! Good stuff! It was scary watching some of the off track excursions, those drivers had guts.

KnifeySpoony, I'm sending you a PM now. Andy

As I said earlier in the post, my '03 SV is very similar to UlfarE's and was built with a 2.3L Duratec from a Ranger. It received cams, rods, pistons, porting, ITB's, MBE967 and a dry sump. I suspect both cars may have been built by William Sours of Autocourse. I'll bet if UlfarE checks his motor mount they are not Caterham parts, but fabricated by the builder. I think Autocourse was using Zetec cars as a basis for Duratec builds early on. Not that any of this really matters, if it runs good who cares !