WestTexasS2K

Im not sure what size the Aladan shocks were. The QA1 units were 1 7/8 " They had a 3" stroke. I used 2' springs on the QA1 because I couldn't get the spring rate I wanted for the front in the 1 7/8 size. You can measure your own shock eye to eye length. It can very depending on the ride height of the car. Set your ride height and then measure the mounting point length. I try to get the shock about mid stroke at ride height. I really have been pleased with ARS shocks way better than the Aladan or QA1 in ride quality.

I like Advanced Racing Suspensions shocks absorbers. The stock QA1 can be tuned by rebuilding and changing the valving, this is a bit of a pain, but are affordable starting point. There is a long discussion on here about the rod end upgrades to a teflon coated rod ends. This will cure a lot of the clunking and squeaks in the suspension. Spring rates can vary greatly depending on your intended use. I like to run a heavy front spring 550lbs and 275 - 300 on the rear. Suspension set up is a very personal preference with uses and driving style and car set up can vary greatly from car to car.

Just saw this one the other day on YouTube. I was impressed at how little drama there was driving at those speed.

I looked at doing Chrome Moly chassis. It triples the build time and doubles the material cost. It should save about 20 percent on weight on the chassis which is about 23 lbs for the Ultralite. I think that 23 lbs could be saved by a diet on my part. If I were racing for a championship and every once counted then it would be worth it maybe. IMO for street and occasional track duty mild steel is the best bang for the buck.

My wifes grandpa used to pull his 16' tandem axle cattle trailer with one and sometimes two cows to sell with his 95 Toyota Camry. It was bit odd looking in Texas the land of the truck, but he did it for 20 years with all kinds of mid size sedans. One Issue I can see is that if you ever get pulled over by your state police and they check your vehicle tow rating tag located in the door of the vehicle. Its a fairly stiff fine for exceeding the tow rating. Probably a slim chance of ever getting pulled over, but it could happen. You just dont want to be in this situation

Wow thankful everyone walked away.

RNR how did you measure to get 3:90? Im not aware of the 3:90 being an option on the Subi R160 diff. Only ratios I have seen is 3:54, 3:70 (rare) 4:11 and 4:44. The STI r180 is available in 3:54, 3:90 and 4:44 (Japan only) some have made it state side. I prefer the 4:44 for street and track personally. Running 275/40/17 rpm are 3900-4000 at 70. Having driven 10k miles over a 2 week period I can honestly say that the engine noise is beyond annoying after a few hours of freeway driving. If I was going to do some touring I would throw a 3:54 in for the tour and then swap back to the 4:44 for run around town and track events. If you are running a 15 slick for track use then 4:11 would likely be the best option. If you have power adder like 7evin then 3:90 is pretty good. Its almost impossible to shift 2nd - 4th without hitting the rev limiter because it revs so fast. The 4:44 would be near impossible to shift fast enough.

The F22 Trans does have a slighty taller 5th and 6th gear. To get a good calculation you need to measure the actual circumfrence of your tire and then calculate the diameter. Actual sizes vary between brands. I have seen as much as 1" difference between brands. That make a huge difference when calculating gearing.

Oscar I have a set of aluminum and fiberglass set. Call me at that number listed above. I apologize on the non response via email. I get about 400 junk mails a day if its not titled to something that catches my attention it gets trashed.

S2000 doesn't have much low end grunt. Just keep it about 4k and let it rip. You could change to 2.5 and I don't think you would be able to tell much difference. I'm not sure the results are worth the cost unless you just want to redo the system for blown out muffler or some other such repair.

Congrats Cobra on new purchase. You have some of the best roads in the country are in your backyard. True 7 country. If you need help with anything don't hesitate to ask there are some knowledgable folks here.

Any of those premium brands work well.

MGB from Flaming River. Here is the link http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0013/s0009/FR1512

Xcarguy never changed gears. I use 2 3 4th on that track. Just shows what torque can do.

Klasik the repair doesn't seem to bad. From the article you pull the Trans the motor can stay in. That should make it a bit easier to get to. It seems like a Porsche engine should last longer than 30-40k miles. There are some documented failures with just 17k miles. If I owned one I would part with the 2-3k repair to avoid the 20k repair. It's a shame that Porsche has neglected the problem for so long. It's really hurt the resell value of the Boxsters.

RSS I haven't purchased anything from Renegade yet. I purchased a 914 for my son and we a working on it. The v8 conversion is way to much for him. I think the S2k powered 914 is going to be to much for him to start with. We may have to put a 6k rpm rev limit on it. I have talked to Scott Mann several times over the years. The company has been around for a long time and customers on the 914 World forum seem to be happy with the performance and customer service. I have wanted a v8 914 for over 20 years just never pulled the trigger. I think an LS powered 914 with G50 trans would be a blast but the cost is just to high from me. I think a 300 hp motor with a stock trans would still be enjoyable drive. You just wont take heavy abuse. The resell has always been fairly low for converted cars over the years, but the last few years the well done v8 cars are bringing as much a some original 914-6 cars. They are running from 13k-25k depending on the details. So you can get most of your money back if you build one and decide to sell it.

Xcarguy. Here is the link. http://www.renegadehybrids.com/

Good deals on Boxsters out there due to bad engines. Renegade hybrids has a conversion kit for Boxsters that puts a cheap reliable Chevy LS engines in that great Chassis. There are a few on the road and owners seem very happy with the power gain and drive experience is retained. A future project on my books.

Mondo its a great combo. Timeless classic good looks and modern drivability. Did you get the AC working? It looks like you used CPP suspension on the front. Did you use their rear system too?

The truck is looking good Mondo. I have been looking for swb 67-72 myself. I want to do the L33 swap with 4L80E and Flat Out Engineering C4 suspension swap. Finding one of these trucks for a decent price is getting hard. A junker is running 4500.00 around here. Clean runners with updated drive train runs 18-20K. Ive been looking for 6 months or so. I have one spotted in a yard that has been sitting there for about 7-8 months. I may need to go try and talk them out of it.

Another good solution. The metal looks a little thin? Maybe 3/16 would be a bit stronger.

a few more There was a previous thread that covered some touring trailers here. http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7496&page=2

This is one I built for our One Lap adventures. It got named the coffin by our competition because we slept in it while going down the road, It has sleeping area in front and the rear compartment held all the spares and a 50 gallon nurse fuel tank and power inverter. It is constructed with 1" tubing like the 7 and lined with 3/8 plywood and skined with aluminum and torsion axle. Its a bit overkill for touring but certainly can be downsized.

I don't know. Ill have to get in touch with him and see if he has file on it I'm sure a local shop could reproduce it.

Most of those spacers I have seen have a 1/4 wall aluminum spacer 2.5" long.