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11Budlite

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Everything posted by 11Budlite

  1. I'm curious to know what Triumphs had inboard discs. I know the E-type did but I don't recall any Triumphs with inboard discs.
  2. Congrats Steve, quite an accomplishment!!
  3. Paul - It shouldn't look like the friction plate on your flywheel. If it does, I'd replace the pressure plate, disc, and the friction plate on the flywheel. Especially if you had fluid contamination previously.
  4. What brand of flywheel is that? It looks like the friction plate is in really sad shape but should be replaceable by itself.
  5. Check out this thread for some info on chassis stands. I've been happy with how well the ones I picked up have worked for a Caterham sized chassis:
  6. Good info here: https://www.minimania.com/How_to_Identify_your_Sprite_Engine
  7. I think I recall having a similar issue with one of my old BMC A-series engines with an aluminum water pump. I ended up removed the freeze/core plugs to see what the block looked like and there wasn't any of that goop in the block passages, just some rust scale. Before having it hot tanked, maybe remove the core plugs to see what it looks like?
  8. My other fun car besides the Caterham is my 2020 Mazda Miata Grand Touring. This is the best all-around fun car I've ever owned. It's quick, economical, comfortable, and just plain fun to drive. I drive it to work, take it when I go MTB-ing up in VT/NH, and I've even used it for track days when the Caterham wasn't done. If I didn't have the Caterham I would stiffen the suspension, change the exhaust, and get another set of wheels/tires just for track days. I picked it up in Texas when I was visiting my brother and college roommate, and drove it home stopping at Barber Motorsports and running the TOTD. Would not have enjoyed the considerable highway driving with the top down if I had done the same trip in my old '91 Miata BRG SE. I tend to keep my vehicles for a long time and this one's a keeper.
  9. Just for reference, my dual diagonal FIA track day bar that I got used from Seb doesn't have the holes drilled. It's a Caged item on a metric chassis.
  10. If you do decide to go with the standard Caterham type switch, you can get the plugs and terminals from British Wiring. When I rewired my old Birkin I was able to get everything I needed to make it a plug and play setup with none of the wires being soldered directly to the switch like it was previously. Check out the C835 switch plug here: http://www.britishwiring.com/Plugs-s/36.htm
  11. I'll never forget that day. We came around the corner and wondered where the heck Jon went. Other than that mishap it was a fun day!
  12. I would think something like this might be worth a try: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3245
  13. John - Your build is looking good so far. There are all kinds of little fitment issues when putting a Caterham together, but none that can't usually be solved with a little fettling. Just a heads-up, when I first tried installing my gearbox in the trans tunnel I wasn't happy with the amount of clearance between the tailshaft hsg and the spaceframe. Because I didn't want to scratch the powdercoat/paint, I ended up removing a section from two unused bosses on the tailshaft hsg. I've attached a couple photos to show you the location.
  14. John - The 6 fuses in the center of the 26 fuses are spares, and only 19 of the 20 circuits are active after the removal of the immobilizer. This site has pretty good info for a Sigma fuse box if you wanted to compare it to the Duratec setup: https://www.lastsuperseven.co.uk/2022/08/fuse-box-arrangement.html?m=1
  15. I'm running an AntiGravity ATX-12-HD-RS and so far it's worked out great. Plenty of cranking power for my Sigma and it weighs almost nothing, I think it's 3 lbs. I have two strips of velcro holding it in place as well as a bar across the top. It does require a special charger as you probably know.
  16. Two pieces of 90 deg aluminum with nut plates installed and two screws to hold it to the fuse box cover. I didn't have nutserts at the time or I would have used them instead. Makes it a lot easier to check or replace fuses.
  17. John - When I got my Caterham the fuse block was just hanging loosely behind the dash and I couldn't find the cover. I talked to Josh at RMC and he said they usually just cable tied the fuse box to the harness behind the dash, and I contacted Caterham and they sent a new fuse box cover. I ended up cutting a window in the fuse box cover and making up a couple angle brackets with nut plates to mount the fuse box to the fuse box cover with two screws so I have easier access to the fuses. I don't have a photo at work but I can post it later when I get home. I was a little disappointed in some of the wiring (temp and fuel gauges were miswired and I could have overheated the engine without even knowing) but removing the immobilizer certainly helped clean it up.
  18. I used Redline MT90 in my old Birkin with T9 and didn't have any issues.
  19. John - I put an M3 rivnut and button head screw in that location. So far it's worked out fine.
  20. John - It's been a while so I can't give you more detail with the size of drill bits that I used, but it was a simple operation and came out very well. One drill bit for rivet removal and one for the nutsert install. I don't recall knocking out the mandrel before drilling out the rivet. The button head screw head covered the missing paint from rivet removal perfectly. No issues with my BRG paint after rivet removal. I can't imagine doing any wiring work behind the dash without removing the scuttle first. I've had mine off 3 times already.
  21. I've had three 'concerns' in 2 years of track days. The first was at my 1st track day at Canaan, NH in my son's Miata without the hard top on. They let me run but they would have preferred to have the hard top on or the seat lowered. See photo. My son has since lowered the seat but he always runs with the hard top on anyway. I think Canaan also wants you to use arm restraints in a Seven type car. The 2nd was running my Caterham at Palmer before I had the side impact bar done. They wanted me to keep my outside arm inside the bodywork when on track. The 3rd was the broomstick test at Watkins Glen. TBH it was more of them eyeballing it not actually using a broomstick. They were definitely concerned though. And you wouldn't want to spill fluids or hit a guard rail there either. It could get real expensive real quick! Obviously different tracks and HPDE organizations have different levels of safety requirements. I have a good buddy that club raced from 2005-18 and he encouraged me to take safety seriously even if I'm only doing HPDE events. He even added "especially at your age!" FYI - I turned 65 this year. Last year I had an over the handlebars face plant while mountain biking that I still haven't recovered from fully, and my Dr says I might not ever. Because of the concerns with my neck I won't go on track without my Simpson Hybrid Sport. To me, the only inconvenience using that is when backing up in the paddock. Considering I'm usually the smallest car on track, I try to have at least a decent level of safety equipment.
  22. I'm using a Bell K1 Pro, SA2020. It's worked out well with an aeroscreen except the visor started to come open part way down the back straight at WG. Who knew you had to tighten the visor bolts occasionally???
  23. Congrats slowdude, car looks great! Just a heads up. If you're still planning on doing track days next year check for helmet clearance, aka the broomstick test. I'm 5'9" and with lowered floors they said I just passed the broomstick test at WG last weekend.
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