11Budlite

According to 'The Magnificent 7' book, it was first offered in 1996.

I bought a tool similar to John's suggestion. It works fine too: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FDL3BS?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_6&th=1

This kit says it fits most Bilstein dampers: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/dampers/41-damper-adjuster-kit-for-bilsteins-set-of-four.html

When I had my Birkin BRG fenders repainted, I used the paint code from a '91 Miata BRG SE. It seemed identical to the original Birkin BRG color and I thought it looked very good. The paint code was HU and was solid BRG (no metallic) and no clear coat. The 2001 Miata BRG SE was the same color green but with a clear coat. Unfortunately I have no way to compare it to the BRG on my Caterham.

Another just for reference. Don't know if you've seen this website: https://www.anglocanadianlotus7.ca/lotus-seven-series-2-and-3-dampers-shocks-and-springs/ Maybe check with Tony Ingram to see what he has: https://lotus7.com/LOTUS_7_parts.html

Wouldn't you have to stack two 7" - 80 lb springs to get the result you wanted?

Yes, my Birkin was a 2001 live axle. It was just for a reference point, I realize you probably wouldn't want that rate spring on a original S2/S3. The Birkin was introduced in 1983 and was supposed to be a pretty accurate reproduction of an S3. Maybe they used a lower rate spring on the early cars?

Just for reference, I checked my old Birkin springs and they were 1.9" ID, 14" length, 150 lb.

I never heard of a factory MGB with P/S. They have been retrofitted to V6/V8 conversions, and I know there is an electric P/S available now too.

I also looked into what a new 420R kit would go for in the US, not cheap. Nice that the production capacity has increased, but that new factory has to be paid for too....

That certainly looks like it could be the same filter. You could remove the mounting bracket to verify, but I'm sure there's a p/n located someplace on that original filter.

I'm such an idiot!!!

It's for mounting a spare wheel to the back of the body/chassis. They used to be part of the chassis, but now they're optional/removable: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/3798-spare-wheel-carrier-bolt-on-metric-cars.html?search_query=spare+tire+carrier&results=13

Hi G - I sent you a PM.

Thanks for your input CarlB. I did some research and found this thread which has some good info and links for eliminating bumpsteer:

Early pre-litigation Westfield Seven for sale in CT. Wire wheels, 1275cc, no price: https://www.bugeyeguys.com/2025/02/pocket-rocket/

Thanks MV8. Didn't even consider the washer thickness being a potential issue. I will definitely measure them upon dissy and when I'm doing the install. It tracked straight before so I shouldn't have to worry but I'll be aware of the possibility. I had planned on checking bump steer as well as corner-weighting too.

My first car was a Bugeye Sprite, and I had a '72 Midget when the Bugeye got totaled when a lady ran a stop sign. She said she never saw it! Great little cars, but they are tiny (much like a Seven). The 4AGE has been done before, but I think I would go with a 1.6L Miata motor like you said. Much easier to find than the 4AGE, and nobody wants to use the 1.6L in a tuned Miata because the 1.8L has a lot more potential and there's a lot more of them. I have a 1.6L Miata motor sitting in my basement out of '92 Miata with 150k miles. I haven't mic'd it yet but the crank looks like new. Still haven't decided what project car it's going to end up in but maybe I'll replicate my first car but with a modern drivetrain! Now if you go a bit larger to an MGB there is a ton more space for any kind of motor you'd want to put under the hood. Miata, Duratec, Ecotec, V6's, V8's have all been done, with lots of build threads for viewing. The later cars are already modified to take the Rover/Buick alum V8. Also a ton more space in the interior too. I owned a '64 MGB for almost 3 decades and drove it all the time. Check out: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/ http://www.britishv8.org/

I'm going to be installing a wide-track kit and new springs/dampers as soon as my garage warms up a bit. I have recommended starting points for camber, caster, and toe. The recommended caster setting is "as much as possible". The following are the washer combinations that I found from this build thread: https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/11/03/front-lower-wishbone/ There are five possible combinations listed from most caster to the least caster. 4-0-4 More steering effort, more self centering / straight line stability 3-1-3 2-2-2 1-3-1 0-4-0 Less steering effort, less self centering / straight line stability I'm presently running the recommended 2-2-2 from the Ikea assy guide. So going to the max caster setting of 4-0-4 will increase steering effort, stability, and will also gain neg camber on the outside wheel during cornering. I've never felt that the steering effort was excessive even with the 260mm leather steering wheel that came stock, and I'm presently running a 280mm suede wheel. My question is, are there any other negative consequences to going to the 4-0-4 caster setting other than increased steering effort?

Hi Seb, where are the parts located? I'm assuming you're still out in the mid-west not in CT.

I don't think that HF tubing roller will do the minimum radius necessary to bend the rear tubing of a Seven chassis. The Eastwood or other brands with multiple width and radius dies is what you'll probably want. I bought a JD2 tubing bender with 1.5" and .75" dies to do some fabrication. I made this side impact bar with the bender, it did a really nice job with a smooth radius and no kinks.

You have to figure out what thread size the stud is. I don't have a Zetec Seven any more but I would think it would be an M8 x 1.25. Any stud that fits in the block should work. As far as your comment about not buying a Zetec-powered Seven, I would have to disagree with you. Parts are not as easy to obtain in the US as they used to be, but there is still a big supply of parts for Zetec-powered cars in the UK available from Burton, RetroFord, Kent, Piper, etc. The nice thing about the Zetec is it's a 'relatively' easy, more modern design upgrade from the Kent Crossflow that was used in so many Caterhams. The biggest downside to the Zetec compared to the newer Duratec is the heavier iron block, and a less efficient head design that limits power compared to the Duratec.

Your engine looks like it's from a later Ford Focus Zetec with the plastic cam cover. I think these were used from 2001-2004 IIRC. One of these should work: https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/camshaft-position-sensor

You're welcome!