11Budlite

It's a brand of aftermarket flywheels and other parts: https://fidanza.com/fidanza-00-04-ford-focus-2-0l-z-tech-5-speed-aluminium-flywheel-186991/?srsltid=AfmBOopF6jxC5URC2tuvcxAR4dZ5e2JawZq2e80t1CppYJdR3DNHwSjj I'm sure it was a rarity, but I had a rather negative experience with Fidanza 15 years ago:

My first thought would be something with the float too. It might not be related to your issue but I figured I'd share my recent experience just in case. I was having an intermittent issue where sometimes my gauge would work and sometimes it would always read empty. I recently pulled my FP assy out and noticed that the variable resistor component had a crack in it. It's hard to see in this photo, but it's all the way through the plastic with a fine break in the electrical/resistor part. Unfortunately the sender portion is not available seperately so you have to replace the whole FP assy. I'm not sure how it happened because I don't drive it on the street with all the potholes, and I hardly ever use the curbs on track.

I'm not sure how you could modify the stock FP pickup to get it lower and moved to the center, if your FP is like the one in my Sigma-powered car. My pump looks something like this: You might consider modifying the assy to something like what John did on his car. Check out pg 3 and 4 of his build thread here:

The most common wheels with a 4x3.75" PCD I believe are Triumph Spitfire. There should be plenty of wheels available, either stock or aftermarket aluminum. Vega wheels had a 4x4" PCD like the Sprite/Midget.

Thanks, it was a lot of work. Unfortunately once it's installed you can't see it!

Since I sent out the simple parts to be fabricated to SendCutSend, I figured I would do the more complicated parts myself. I've been trying to decide how to mount my Tillett seat and had run across one method someone in the UK had used that I though might work okay for me. He used two aluminum angle pcs per side with a pivot so you could adjust the angle of the seat. Everything I had read seemed to recommend the front of the seat about an 1" higher than the rear. My first mistake was using 1" x 1" aluminum angle for both the upper and lower mounts. I thought that the lower the seat was, the better. Well, my first track day confirmed otherwise when I was having a dificult time seeing the apex on some of the corners, specifically turns 6 and 13 at Palmer. So when I got home a slight redesign was in order. I used the original upper mount in 1" angle, but bought some 2" angle which I cut down to 2" x 1.375". Both upper and lower aluminum angle is .1875 thick. Did a quick mock-up and raising the seat an inch put my sight line where it needed to be. Having the seat raised up also gave more room for the crotch strap to be routed under the seat. So I took it all back apart and started laying out a pattern of lightening holes to see where I could save some weight. All holes were center punched, pilot drilled with an 1/8" bit, center drilled, final drilled with a few different carbide tipped hole saws, then chamfered. There are also (5) different mounting locations to move the seat forward or aft. All hardware is aircraft grade (other than metric to mount to the seat) and I used T-bolts with a tight fit to the lower rail so they wont turn when tightnening the seat mounts to the floor. So far it's worked very well, although the seat fit is unbelievably tight in the cockpit of a S3 chassis. Just 1" more width in the cockpit would make installing the seat and adjusting the lap belt so much easier. I saved right around 2lbs over the standard adjustable seat rails which weigh a little over 4lbs per set. That's for one seat. The following photos show the result.

I've heard a lot about SendCutSend over the last couple of years and thought I would give them a try. I figured I would do something simple so did a quick design for steering rack shims/spacers to adjust bump steer. Went to there template section and selected 'Square Link', and input the following specs: Width: 2.8" Height: 0.8" Corner Rad: 0.4" Left Hole: 0.25" Right Hole: 0.25" Distance Between Centers: 2.0" I ended up ordering the shims in 1/16", 1/8", and 1/4" thicknesses. I ordered 22 pcs and it came to a little over $31 with a discount code from one of the YT channels. They even threw in a couple extra for free. Although they would have been very simple to fabricate, the time saved letting SCS do it was worth it to me. It took 6-7 days from the time I submitted the design to when I rec'd the parts. There was a little clean up of burrs on one side of the shim from the cutting operation but easily done with a stone or file. Overall very happy and would use them again.

If you measure the original Birkin tank it should be very close in size to the Fuel Safe fuel cell. That should confirm that it was a part of the Birkin group buy. I have one of the standard Fuel Safe Lotus 7 fuel cells in my rolling chassis and it's definitely smaller.

I don't think that's the standard Fuel Safe Lotus 7 cell. That looks like the Birkin fuel cell that was done as a group buy around 2005, specifically to replace the standard Birkin fuel tank. I had one of those in my Birkin and I know it held more than 7 gallons. I think it was around 10 gallons. Here's an old photo of mine.

It looks like the relatively common low pressure regulator like this one: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15911/10002/-1?srsltid=AfmBOoo5MP-Mo9Dbn8oNzB3tNNbubKGUk-cyFg8TNqkqd5HezTZAX7lRY68&gQT=1

I don't think that's true. I think it was used in the Ford Fiesta starting around the 2010-2011 time frame. It certainly looks like the same engine with Ti-VCT I have in my 310.

I seem to remember a car dealer in the Bristol, CT area whose owner or an employee had a Caterham. I can't remember which dealer (Stephens maybe?) but it could be the same car.

I'll keep my eyes open, maybe put a WTB ad in the "Parts For Sale/Wanted" forum.

The car looks great, love the color combination. The 14" Minilites look nice on there!

You have to measure at the bead seat per this diagram, both the width and diameter. They're probably around a 13 x 5" wheel. The PCD is determined by measuring across the bolt holes, could be 4 x 3.75. As far as who made them, I'm not sure. They could be originals but there are new wheels available. http://www.leechapmanracing.com/wheels.html https://www.tonythompsonracing.co.uk/parts/other-car-parts/wheels-magnesium-wobbly-webs-for-lotus-222323b27-etc-fronts-5x13-each/

I've removed the heaters in my old Birkin and my Caterham. I've always felt that a heated motorcycle jacket did a much better job at keeping me warm. Did many miles in sub-freezing temps. My old Birkin was Zetec powered so had the exhaust next to the driver. With gloves the muffler turned out to be a convenient hand-warmer.

I think it'd be nice to see how they've adapted the engine output to the driveshaft.

The ad says it's a 1-liter Yamaha engine. I'm not familiar with m/c engines, but it looks like it could be from an R1. Like John, I've never seen a transverse m/c engine in a Seven.

I like the basics of this design, but was wondering how it would look if the profile of the car was reversed. Keep the 'USA7s' in the same orientation, but reverse the profile of the car so that 'USA' is on the hood/bonnet, the '7' is in the drivers seat, and the 's' is on the trunk/boot. @JohnCh - I'm not sure how to do graphic design, can you see what it would like it if it was reversed?