inchoate

not to be obtuse, but why do you want to relocate the T9 shifter?

maybe try the UK club site.

I've got 45DCOEs with 60mm (2.36") ram pipes. I'm currently running K&N 3 1/2" air cleaners (89mm). I'm measuring about 7/8" (22mm) between the lid of the air cleaner and the end of the ram pipes. This strikes me as a little bit tight. I could switch over to 40mm ram pipes but the 60mm are desirable from a tuning standpoint. Is it possible to run the 4" K&N air cleaner with clamshells? It looks like it would clear the fender but I'm not sure I could get the hood on. I could go with pod filters but to be honest I'm a bit fond of the look of the K&Ns. Any thoughts?

Dang. I've been asking around everywhere and came here as a last resort. Looks like I should have started here. I've been curious about the sunoco in havertown but I've never actually taken a close look. I'll have to do that the next time I'm in the area. If they've got ethanol free pump gas that works. It's quick and fun drive from my house. VP in New Castle is easy, I'm down there all the time.

I kind of agree with this. There really is no such thing as a stock 7. Every single one I've ever seen is modified in some way or another. Do what works for you and be happy.

I used to buy my race gas from K&G Speed in Broomall. Unfortunately they're gone out of business so I need a new place to get high octane, ethanol free unleaded in pails. Anyone know a place? Sort of an odd place to ask but I'm casting as wide a net as possible.

I actually have the cycle fenders that came with my dad's 1962 S2. He always ran the clamshells as the cycles weren't legal at that time. Not exactly related, but has anyone converted from clams to cycles? Every now and then I have one too many drinks and start to think that I should get my motor built into a monster, get brooklands screens and cycle fenders. Not sure how involved the fender swap would be.

I also use Hagerty for my 7 and a bunch of old bikes. I have no complaints but I've never had to make a claim. They've always been easy to deal with.

A bit ago I ordered up some new dashboard switches as mine are badly faded and I did have a thought that the 40 year old switches might be part of my electrical problems. Today I finally got a few minutes with the wife and kids out of my hair and in every case it was the switch, so problem solved. I've taken a preliminary look inside some of the old switches and they look a little squirrely but not terrible. I'll clean them up and see if I can't dye the rockers back to black. If I can get them to work I'll put them back into service because as they say, it's only original once. If not it's no big deal because there's no such thing as a stock Caterham. I'm happy it was something simple as I really didn't relish the idea of tracing out the individual circuits. Thanks for everyone's help.

well, I've got turn signals and hazards now. still no headlights (high beam flashers work), windshield wipers (windshield washer does work), heater fan or instrument lights. i'm working with the wiring diagram but i can't seem to figure out what the non working stuff has in common. I was messing around in the pedal box but i checked all of the wiring around there and nothing looks loose.

OK, sounds like a plan. I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend.

I had a chance to sit down with my wiring diagram and it came to me that I unplugged the ignition amplifier while I was doing some cleanup in my engine bay. Dollars to donuts that's the problem.

This is the first time i've turned the key on since changing out the battery/coil/distributor. Easy enough to check for voltage at the fuses and coil. Edit... I've got battery voltage at the coil with the key on and zero with the key off. I've got continuity between the coil ground and the chassis ground. I briefly had turn signals while I was messing around but that was the only thing working and they're MIA again.

Went to finish up a few little things on my car today and low and behold I've suddenly got electrical issues. I've got brake lights, a horn, the starter, the windshield washer pump, the brake fail switch and the high beam flashers. Nothing else works. No turn signals, hazard lights, windshield wipers, heater fan etc. I checked the fuses visually and with a multimeter and they're all good. Relays all pass the click test. Any thoughts as to where I should start looking? Car is a LHD 1987 Caterham De Dion. I replaced/relocated the battery and replaced the ignition coil and distributor recently but I didn't change any of the wiring.

I rigged up a flasher relay and got the biggest, brightest third brake light I could find. Definitely one of the better modifications I've done.

I haven't given it a try yet but I'd imagine that it would be very notchy. I made it more as "just to do it" kind of thing.

Got bored at work so I did a little research into the whole balsa wood shift knob thing. We usually have balsa wood scraps lying around so I whipped one up. I could probably get a little more weight out of it by lightening the aluminum threaded insert and making it a little bit smaller (it's currently 1.85" in diameter), but 17g is pretty darn light. So if you want the lightest possible knob that's probably the way to go.

That's seriously slick!

wasn't there a Porsche sports racer that had a gearshift knob made out of balsa for weight reduction?

it's a seven so lighter is better. if you need to fiddle try some different shapes. that was my winter lathe project a few years ago and the shift knob that ended up working best for me was pretty far away from where I started.

I've tried a few products that I've used successfully on other projects to no avail. Car builder solutions is definitely a possibility. Caterham also sells the switches but I have a stinking suspicion that they're the same ones Car Builder Solutions sells.

I'm trying to figure out what to do about my very gray switches at the moment. this post is as intriguing as it is confusing.

I've currently got my oil cooler plumbed with -10 pushlock and oetikers. When it fails, which I'm assuming it will at some point, I'll switch over to PTFE.

I'm in the process of cleaning up 35 years worth of electrical weirdness in my engine bay. I've got a cutoff switch with a relay to ground the alternator output through a resistor. When I got the car the resistor was taped to the starter lead, but my intention is to put it in a little holder and stick it to the firewall, but I wonder if that's the best place. for those of you with kill switches with the relay, where do you put your resistors?

The wet sump pan is back on and the motor is back in the car. I have bizarre ideas about maybe getting a drive or two in before the weather gets bad. Here's a pic of my rod bolts. If yours look like this check your clearances.