CarlB

Some very sophisticated race engines run two injectors per cylinder to gain a little top end advantage from having a injector mounted high in the manifold. If you look at some of the drag race dyno comparisons between the long runner carburetor manifolds (tunnel ram) and fuel injection with the injectors mounted low and the back of the valve. Typically the carburetors make more power but the fuel injection has a better power curve. They do not show how well the carburetors control the fuel curve, but I would speculate the fuel injections advantage is in the fuel curve.

Not exactly the same. The one in your picture looks like it is nylon. These are vinyl. https://www.delcity.net/store/Vinyl!Insulated-Push!On-Terminals/p_805397.h_805423

If your coolant temperature isn't to high and the oil pressure is dropping at high RPM you might have a lot of air in your oil. The spinning crankshaft can cause the problem if the oil level is too high or the pan isn't baffled properly. If you are using synthetic oil and the temperature is below 240 there shouldn't be a problem. That doesn't mean you wouldn't want a oil cooler to knock that down to 220. You need the oil to get hot enough to get the water out. Doing that will reduce the load on the cooling system. The other possibility is the engine oil is collecting in the top of the engine and not draining back. If that is the issue it is very easy to damage the engine. I do not know what type of engine you have, but I am not aware of drain back problems with the popular Ford engines used in our cars. Some engines need to restrict the amount of oil going to the top of the engine and or improve the drain back. All engines have a little blow by. Make sure your breather system is working and there isn't a lot of blow by.

I read the post on a earlier page that the only tech requirement was the one on the registration page. I was under the impression that the state of New Jersey required a inspection. I read the section about inspections in the code and it only referred to sanctioning bodies or tracks. Do I need any other inspection beyond the one done at the track and outlined on the form from registration?

Quaife has a good one on there web site. It lets you compare different transmission gears, rear end gears, and tire diameters. It has a bunch of pre loaded configurations for its transmissions and specific tires as well.

The registration said that we needed to document track experience to get out of the Green run group. Do you know what is required?

It is in the process of getting yellow cycle fenders and all the red will be gone as well. I do not want to cut up the leather seats for six point belts.

By the way were those pictures taken at the Tail of the Dragon? I am guessing the first pull off on the Tennessee side.

I apologize for my comment if I insulted someone. I am certainly guilty of being indelicate. It is still my opinion that using a rear axle that weighs a third of the cars weight will dramatically affect the cars handling in a negative way.

I can speak to some of this. Chris Custer did name the car Rotus because Japanese can't pronounce Ls. He told me that when he let me drive his car. It was the first one built, and I was working at QuickSilver RaceEngines. He had called and wanted a brake proportioning valve. I had some adjustable ones used on Corvettes. He came down in the Rotus and let me drive it. I only drove it on the street, but it was a very good car. I was surprised it was that well sorted. The only other Rotus I ever saw was at a autocross and it had a Chevy engine complete with some American sedan solid rear axle. It was not a good car.

Does anyone have the paint code for Lotus Yellow?

I am in the middle of re-wiring my car. I don't think I can fit this dash so I started my own.

Your build is inspiring questions. I want to replace my dash panel so I can change the guage layout. You can't get the dash out without removing the cowl first. Your picture shows the fire wall side of the cowl in place. Can the cowl be removed with out drilling out all the fire wall rivets? Is it possable to remove the cowl with the firewall in place?

I am very interested in your rebuild, and want to do much the same to my car. Thank you for sharing. I would be very interested in seeing your disasembly pictures.

I do not understand how you are measuring the offset. Measure from the lip on the back of the wheel to the mounting flange (where the wheel bolts to the car) then measure from the mounting flange to the lip on the front of the wheel. The difference is the offset. A good way to do it is to get something to put across the wheel flanges so you can acurately measure to the mounting flange.

I have a T-9

I think you will find this helpful. It is from the foundation that writes the rules on racing safety equipment for the US http://racequip.com/images/SFI_Guide_to_Seat_Belt_Mounting_06-05-12.pdf

My car has a Zetec and a T-9. When I got my car it came with a Spec clutch and Flywheel. They do not list the clutch on their web site. I believe George Alderman would have installed it. Their web site is https://aldermanmachine.com/

I have the ten inch wheels referenced. Here is a print. 10 inch wheel.pdf

I am interested in the tail lights. Would you sell me the tail lights and the other gentleman the headlights?

Thank you - I got the fenders and brackets much faster than I though I would. Everything looks good and I will get to work to get them on my car. Does anyone have the headlight bracket when you go from clam fenders to cycle fenders?

I will take the fenders and brackets if they are available.

I hope to make it to NJMP for the 7 gathering. Michael has been very helpful to me getting the car and with good advice. I ran my first Autocross last weekend and that was really the first time I have been able to drive the car. Getting tags in Virginia requires a inspection from the state police and I have been concentrating on getting it ready to autocross. The car is a blast and I will have a lot of work and fun figuring out how to drive it. I was trying to drive it with the throttle, but I let a SCCA national champion autocrosser drive it and I learned a lot. Jab the brakes and steer. The car has unbelievable turn in. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=14121&stc=1