CarlB

Congratulation to Peter Norton! Peter finished 4th out of 16 cars this year at Road America. He got beat by two BMWs and a Mazda RX-7. SCCA strangles the Caterhams and even makes the car race with Clam front finders.

My Ford differential uses the same UJoint as a MGB

Thank You - I will try to get a copy of his book. Your post prompted me to remember I was given a book from the gentlemen I purchased my car from. He gave me a copy of The Magnificent 7. It has a surprisingly detailed history of all the cars up to 2001.

There aren't that many different U joints. If you go to a drive shaft shop, they will probably identify it for you.

Is there anywhere where the evolutionary changes are documented? I would love to see what the actual changes have been. I believe it would have to consider the SV, CSR, different cars.

The videos are really good at showing the difference in the two cars. Of the two the Mustang looks like the more fun. It is a brute with a lot of torque from the good old American V-8. I do not know how many laps I could make, but it would be a blast trying to tame that thing. Croc and I have had a back and forth on engine sound. I love the smooth V-12- and 6-cylinder sound. V-8s have a deeper rumble because most V-8s fire two cylinders on the same side one after the other. The uneven exhaust pulses change the sound. Both sound good to me, but I prefer the even firing sound.

Despite not having my car there, I enjoyed being with everyone. I will make sure I have the car ready for next year. Croc, thank you for being the storage facility for my carelessness. I will use that as incentive to get back to NJMP soon.

All depends on what the amp rating the switches you are using. The wire is important as well, but generally the switch is the component with the low rating.

You beat me to it!

Your wheels might be from a UK company called image.

It has been a while but I have been to Waterfort Hills. I would be a great place for a 7. It is a cross between a go-kart track and a traditional sports car track.

Thank you for the advice. I have checked. I have a digidash and it sends an alarm when the pressure falls to 20 PSI and the engine speed is above 2000 RPM. Cold start up is 80 PSI. Running hot at high speed is 40 PSI and should be over 50 PSI. Idle hot is 20 PSI. I suspect my oil pump.

You actually want the oil up to 220 to 230 degrees. You need to get any water out. You need a cooler if the oil temperature goes over that. Why complicate and add something you do not need?

No, I did not see any numbers. Thank you for the help.

Unfortunately my car is loosing oil pressure and I am not going to be able to run this time. I will probably come up Friday and see everyone. I went to Dominion last weekend and my car ran great with the Tracsport gear box and no other issues. Unfortunately in the third session the oil pressure was down to 20 pounds in the corners and only 40 on the straits.

Thank You - I fixed the one I have. It was a real ordeal to get it fixed. I have some pictures and will post something about it. Your advice about the oil pan bolts not on the same plane as the back of the block. When I got my car, someone had put a sheet metal dust cover in the space. I am sure that did not do it any good. I bolted the bellhousing directly to the pan by mistake as well. I measured the back of the block and found the pan was recessed about .010 and now have a shim. I would have to change my flywheel, clutch, throw out bearing, oil pan and maybe my header to use that bellhousing. My starter mounts on the upper right side and uses Focus clutch parts.

I will get registered. Car is ready if I don't break it at Dominion this Saturday. I got a Simpson Hybrid and am having a hard time getting it to fit.

Currently only two toys. You know my Caterham, but my other fun car is a 2006 JCW MINI. Point and Squirt!

That should work fine

If this is a after shot, anduril is correct. The silver part of the clamp should fit against the shaft.

Thanks for the tip. I hadn't seen those.

I do not have a Caterham removable wheel hub, but you need to be very careful. It sounds as if the hub might be coming loose from the steering shaft. The first thing I would do is hold the steering shaft in the engine compartment to keep it from moving. There are three pieces that make up the steering shaft. The hub your steering wheel bolts to. A tube that connects the hub to the solid shaft that connects to the steering rack. Hold the shaft from turning and see if there is any play. Vice grips will hold the steering shaft. The only thing that would be simple to fix would be the clamp between the tube and the shaft. Look under the brake master cylinder at where the steering shaft come through the fire wall. There is a clamp that holds the tube to the shaft. If the tube is turning and the shaft isn't, make sure the clamp is tight. If the hub is moving and the tube isn't, I do not know how that hub attaches, but I would suggest that if you do not have a lot of experience working on cars have a mechanic look at it. Steering can fail catastrophically. You should also check the joint at the connection to the steering rack, but this would not cause the wheel to move in and out. The last thing would be if the wheel was loose, or the removable wheel hub is broken. If nothing is loose in the tube and shaft it could be the connection where the hub comes together.

Raceline can be difficult to deal with. I agree, calling is the best approach. Some of the things they have are not available other places. Tracsport makes bellhousings and one of their bellhousings has provision to put the starter on either side. I suspect Raceline is selling their stuff. I have a similar car and I have a Raceline oil pan that is wide on both sides. My car has a bellhousing that mounts the starter high on the right side under the intake manifold. Is that what came on your car?

I have a similar car, and I am not aware of a VIN number anywhere else. There is a chassis number located under the roll bar on the passenger side. Your frame and the aluminum panels were made by a company called Arch Motors. What is on my frame is AM98J024452. This stands for AM-Arch Motors - 98-year made - J02 is the jig - 4452 is the production number

When I bought my car it had regular seats that had been cut for crotch straps. It worked fine, but wasn’t great for the seats. A good trimmer should be able to do a neat job.