Jump to content

sf4018

Club Member
  • Posts

    367
  • Joined

Everything posted by sf4018

  1. Ok thanks. I'm going to have to retune anyways (I have a custom SBD tune already in their ECU), so does it matter which injector I get? Not sure what the pros/cons of each are.
  2. Ok thanks for the info @KnifeySpoony and @Croc! I think I’m going to give it a go once Caterham tells me if the Throttle Pot comes with the kit. I believe it should be this one https://caterhamparts.co.uk/throttle-cables/4056-throttle-potentiometer-duratec-and-csr-260.html
  3. Has anyone installed this upgrade kit (or any other kit) from Caterham on a 420R to increase the HP? Engine Upgrade Kit - R400 - 210bhp to 220bhp (caterhamparts.co.uk) How hard is it to put this in?
  4. Well the car made it through the race unscathed except for the lowered floor which I discovered has split open below the drivers seat… …I’ll try again next year. Cross fingers for the weather for y’all this weekend.
  5. Great racing between you guys, tons of fun, congrats. Hopefully the driver at the end there is ok.
  6. Here's the 333 tires in action. They are great.
  7. At Road Atlanta this weekend, some notes so far... 333 is about 4mph faster on corners compared to A64 with similar track temps from yesterday. 333 tire wear seems good which is a surprise. 333 tire pressures rise rapidly - cold pressures were set to 21psi, after 5 laps LR=27psi, RR=26psi, LF=26psi, RF=23psi. This was morning 8:30am, so temps were low, air temp 60F. Will try cold temps set to 19psi. Good feel, very predictable. So far I heart 333s.
  8. We’re your target hot temps 25psi still?
  9. Assuming the car makes it through the HSR race in a few weeks it looks like I’ll be able to make it, will register at the end of the month.
  10. The 4.55V vs 4.62V is only ~120RPM delta, it may be a red herring with the TPS being the problem. There are fuel modifiers in the ECU for Inlet Air Temp and Coolant Temp. Would be worth data collection of all the sensors to see if one of them is jumping around when the issue happens.
  11. No, didn't think I'd need to for a 7 lap sprint race, but you're right it would help some.
  12. I have all 3 compounds - A64/24/333. From my experience so far I would select based on track temperature. Here in the deep south, A24 and 333 compounds basically melt in the heat, but the A64 holds up well. All 3 are poor in the wet, especially if there is standing water, in drying/crossover conditions they are good.
  13. Sure it's not the throttle cable not returning all the way? I had to add a spring to the pedal to make sure it returned, the spring on the baffle alone wasn't strong enough.
  14. Thanks all especially @JohnCh for the suggestions and info, so to summarize these are the options... 1. Rebuild engine with new pistons and other internals. 2. Add Roller Barrels or Throttle Bodies 3. Replace Diff. 4. Entry level 5 psi regulated turbo setup with rising rate regulator, small oil cooler, and no intercooler. e.g. Garrett 6262. I think I'm gonna focus on 2 for now, seems the easiest for my limited skill and tool set.
  15. I’m looking to increase the HP of my standard 420R Duratec 2.0 engine by 20-30 HP to be a little more competitive in a race. I have an unlocked ECU and a fuel system that pushes 60 psi of fuel. The tune is setup rich to better ensure engine life and fuel consumption is not a problem (the tank is ~14 gallons). Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations?
  16. I'm sure you've done all this already but make sure lid clicks during tightening, check hose clamps are tight, remove the top bolt of the radiator to make sure there's no air trapped, and make sure the cooling fan switches on before you hit the red line on the temp gauge.
  17. For me the engine harness is a sub harness to the ECU harness, yours might be different, dunno.
  18. I've not replaced the ECU harness but did replace the engine harness recently, I tried to do with everything in place and feed the harness through with the existing but it's too tight with not good enough hand access, so ended up replacing it after removing the engine for something else. I would imagine it would be a similar story for the ECU harness - lots of stuff to remove, I would guess the scuttle and prop shaft would have to come out at minimum.
  19. I had the exact same symptoms for oil pressure. Ended up being an intermittent loose ground wire somewhere on the engine harness. Swapping out the harness also fixed a weird issue with bogging down on track on occasion.
  20. The Lambda for my duratec is all over the place when accelerating/decelerating, between 0.85 to 1.30, but the engine feels good. https://youtu.be/uqRcBIpMkSY
  21. I'm guessing that's an S3 size? Not sure what they mean by "metric"?
  22. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/pumps-senders/726-fuel-pump-for-bag-tank.html?search_query=5249970000&results=1 its a Bosch pump, 100lph. The fuel system is pressured to 60psi, the return is local to the tank, not at the rail. My guess is it’ll draw 2/3 the amps of yours. Don’t have the p/n.
  23. I didn’t upsize the Caterham wiring for my external pump, works fine. Didn’t notice any heat build up in the cable either so doesn’t appear to be close either. Only reason I can think of to do is if the voltage drop for 16AWG at 10A is too high (can’t imagine it would be, the wires are not that long).
  24. Just a thought in a different direction - the hydramat: does it work with higher fuel flow return to tank applications with it being basically a big filter bag? Can the pump take the negative pressure intake?
  25. The Lambda drifting to lean over a few seconds looks like the fuel psi dropping away to me too than a tuning issue. Don't know how much effort it would be to bypass the ECU pump run command and just have the pump run full time temporarily to see if it's a problem with the ECU output and/or rear relay.
×
×
  • Create New...