SENC

Vacuum advance is only going to benefit mpg and emissions, at some cost to performance. I'm a fan of points on these cars, generally easier to dx and cheap/easy to keep a back-up to critical consumable parts in the car. If you go this route, be sure to buy quality condensers and rotors as there is some really cheap sh!t out there. Distributor Doctor in the UK is a reputable supplier if quality parts

@TEM looking at your pictures again, I see someone added side view mirrors to the wings. I can't see exactly where those are mounted, but look to be pretty close to in line with the lights. Is it possible that whomever installed the mirrors used one or more of the original holes for the lights and just moved the lights? Either to minimize drilling or to effect the location of the mirrors to their liking? Then never got around to rewiring, or decided the functionality wasn't worth another hole?

Now that you say that, I think that is my recollection - I'd forgotten. My wings have been repainted, but to my knowledge they are also the originals.

Here is a picture I took when disassembling my wings to polish the alu. Securing the light to the wing required 1 hole/bolt, electricity through the other hole. I know some cars had separate indicators mounted below the headlights, but not sure when that started.

Not sure what parts would be useful given the limited pictures. I only took a quick look at a dash photo but it didn't appear much on it would be original, so if that is any indicator I'd question whether there are many original parts left on the car. It could also be a built up group of parts on a 61 plate.

Count yourself lucky! Mine didn't have the special ones (likely someone's previous work) so it was extra fiddly. A long round head hex key with a 45° bend saved my sanity, but is still tough sledding. The sequence is important.

Indeed, they are a real bugger!

Interesting, I have not seen one with the markings on top (not that I've seen a lot, so could be common). Attaching a picture of mine on rebuild, which also shows the intake manifolds - which I believe to be original/Cosworth manifolds. Yours look quite similar. On this one, like the diagram above, the 116e casting is on the bottom of the water inlet.

This from the Seven manual suggests that the gap between the 2 ridges is 10 degrees btdc. I also found the following in my files. Assuming this marking us how you identified your head, it may explain things as it appears the same 116e casting for the head was used on 1300cc blocks. I think this was related to Cortinas, but would support such a head on a 1300 lotus engine.

I'll have tonight back through my notes and files, but my memory is that the two "pointers" on the cover are 8 and 10 degrees. In the downloads "Lotus 7" section are copies of the Lotus 7 manual, a Ford 105E manual, and an article on the Cosworth evolutions. The Ford manual shows the markings, but it may have been somewhere else I saw the description. The Lotus manual and article describes various initial intended timings. It looks like you have a Cosworth cover, so perhaps you also have a Cosworth head. They did make them for both 105E and 116E engines. How are you identifying this as a 116E head? 116E blocks, in my experience with Lotus, are most frequently marked 120E. Think of 105E and 116E as "classes" that can include several subgroups. It could be that yours was a Cosworth 116E engine where the block was replaced - or a 105E where the head was replaced - or maybe someone just added the Cosworth cover and new manifolds to allow the dual Webers. I can't see the manifolds well enough to tell if they look like the Cosworth manifolds. The unique engine number should be engraved on the top of the motor mount on the distributor side. With that and your vehicle ID number (SBxxxx or LSBxxxx) John Watson (Lotus Seven Registry) could tell you if the block is original and maybe more about original configuration.

I use a good set of noise reduction earplugs that work quite well at eliminating the annoying pressure and noise from buffeting but still allow me to hear the engine, etc.

I wouldn't think it could be shifted that far back without a modification to the tunnel and/or a different transmission. Mine is in the forward position pictured above (120e cosworth) and I have to remove the nose to check the oil. The gearbox is a pretty tight fit into the tunnel - not with it right now to check, but I doubt it could move back more than an inch without hitting. Whatever amount I could move it, it would require a shorter propshaft and relocating the gearbox mount.

It's on my list, too. Let me know when/if you go and I may try to meet you for a ride! And if you still have the axle, we can discuss doing a deal for it.

Thanks Vin, I was hoping it was an original 4.11. I don't have an immediate need, have just been keeping an eye open for a reasonable cost backup knowing the limited lifespan these rear ends. Maybe I should be thankful, Mass would be a long way to go for a backup!

Standard 10 rear end? Any idea the ratio of the diff? What's the history on it?

Agree completely.

They all, essentially, grab air from the top of the windscreen and drop it down and a bit outward behind the windscreen, filling a bit of the negative pressure "void" to reduce air being pulled in from the sides. I'd think the square design of our screen surrounds would make a fairly easy and solid place for attachment and allow quick/easy install/deinstall.

Here are a couple pics from ebay/etsy... and a link to a product offered by JASS... https://www.jassperformance.com/shop/fresh_air_scoop_mx5?srsltid=AfmBOoqWHbY8qzJmeq53wQ0G07Vl2_YFtCGNpB6FWRnUcR1N_5bva6jSirk

Has anyone tried to create a windshield mounted scoop/diverter like some have for their miata? I'd think this would be quite effective in changing the air pressure behind the screen, thereby reducing the buffetting. I need to find someone with a 3d printer to help test the idea.

Looks great Al!

Weale indicates that Ford hubs have larger diameter wheel studs than Triumph hubs, so that may be what you have. Weale isn't specific about the hubs on the S2s, just that they are Triumph. The rear axle hubs, brakes are all from the Standard 10 and Herald. The early S2 wheels were from the Triumph/Standard Herald (3-1/2"), replaced by the 4-1/2" Lotus Elan wheels. I don't know whether the Spitfires used the same as the 10/Herald.

Nothing in particular, mine is in good shape. Just saw the post and thought, if close enough it might be worth it for the future.

Where are you located @fotsyr?

As I recall they are from the Herald. If you have a copy of Tony Weale's book it may say - if you don't have it I'll check mine later when I get back.

Normal behavior on mine (pos earth and generator): at idle and/or with significant load it will read negative - as rpms rise it will read positive, even with some load. Obviously, dead zero when ignition is in off position.