Anker

I set it to idle at 1000 RPM Anker

Check the thickness of the washer under the nut that holds the lower attachment of the stay. If there is a thick washer, or multiple washers you can move the stays a bit away from the tires. On my road tires I can push my fingers into the gap past the first knuckle but not past the second knuckle on my fingers.

I am not familiar with those.

Yes! What are those tires? The sidewalls must be quite flexible. Performance tires usually have less flexible sidewalls.

If you run at low pressures and aggressive turning that is quite possible. What pressures and what kind of driving do you do?

There's a person you need to connect with there. He will be driving around in a golf cart and is an employee. His name is Walter Irvine. He is a big Lotus fan and organizes blats out of Lime Rock Park, called the LLG, Always a good group to be a member of, even if you rarely make it to Lime Rock.

I am in Stow!

Here are a couple more suggestions, based on my own experience with my X-Flow: Check the connections to the alternator. The spade connectors can be loose and in my case the indicators and horn would only work at idle. It had been that way for years for the previous owner. I discovered that one of the spade connectors was loose. I tightened it and presto, problem gone permanently. Check the connections at the fuse box and how well the fuses are held. Good luck! Anker

Are the throttle bodies balanced?

So a "stupid" question: How do I fill the tank completely without spilling gas? If I just insert the nozzle and run it at full clip I only get a 3/4 full tank before it shuts off. If I want to fill the tank completely I have to reduce the flow by a lot and hold the nozzle so the end is as high as it can go. And then I often spill a bit down the back. It would be great if there was an adapter that fit into the inlet that would deal with this issue!

The cam pulleys are correspondingly larger and the cams are further apart!

Hah! I found the problem. Not at all what I suspected. I blew out all passages and jets, but no improvement. Then I got it running as well as I could, still popping and not running evenly. I then started pulling spark plug leads. The engine idled with the #1 and #2 cylinder leads pulled but quit when either #3 or #4 were. That cause a light bulb to go on, so I checked the balance of the two carbs. Bingo - #1 and #2 were pulling 5 and #3 and #4 were pulling 7. Got them balanced and the problem was fixed. So what was happening was that the butterfly valves on #1 and #2 were almost completely closed. The two aren't exactly aligned, so #2 was pretty much completely closed and not pulling enough vacuum through the idle adjustment screw to make it effective. The lesson I learned is not to mess with the carbs without checking the balance first!

Thanks for the suggestions, Henry! I'll keep them in mind.

I have a plugged idle circuit on one of my Weber DCOE 40s. The car idles poorly and doesn't respond to one of the idle mixture screws being turned. I can turn it completely down without any change. I would like to defer a complete rebuild to after the driving season and wonder whether I can clear the obstruction with compressed air. My plan is to remove the idle jet and give that a compressed air blast, but am concerned that the obstruction may be elsewhere and wonder whether any of you can advise me. One thought is to also remove the idle adjustment screw and blow compressed air into both cavities in the hopes of unlodging whatever it is. It is not the fuel filter, because the other throat works just fine. Another thought is to just remove the top cover of the carb and blow air through all passages that are in it. Anker

We do!

Hey, that is my plate! (Massachusetts for me!)

I have driven mine in January in Massachusetts and not needed the heater. The footwell is nice and warm in winter and a furnace in 90 degree temperatures.

It is safe to assume that all alignment setting affect each other. That includes ride height!

#2 just looks like it is running to rich. To me it looks like carbon deposits!

I am about to check the front wheel alignment on my 87 Supersprint 1700. When I look at the steering rack and wheel carrier it is not clear how the adjustment is made. On my Porsches you loosen the lock nut and then turn the rod that connects the steering rack to the ball joint on the wheel carrier, but there isn't a good place to put a wrench on the rod, so I am confused about how to make small adjustments to the toe-on. What am I missing?

Talk to Josh at Rocky Mountain Caterham. He helped me convert from clamshell wings to cycle wings. You need new headlight brackets!

#4: Bad ground connection!

I am still on the original mechanical fuel pump.

Until recently my daily driver was a Mercedes CLK 350 convertible. A great car, but not a lot of storage room. Also, with that I had 3 rag tops in addition to the Caterham, so a few months ago I joined the dark side and traded the CLK for an Acura RDX. I got a 2018 because I prefer a naturally aspirated 3.5 liter 6 to a 2 liter four banger turbo. My wife has a Chevvy Volt, which is a great car for local trips.

Bring it to the Larz Anderson British car lawn day on July 11. Preregistration required, but it is only $25! There will be several more Lotus there, including my Caterham. Anker