Anker

Another possibility could be that the advance mechanism in your distributor is sticking. If you have a timing light check whether there is smooth advance of the timing as you advance throttle.

I suspect they are backfires or spitting through the carbs. A misfire will feel exactly as you described.

HD? Where and who is that?

I suspect you have the idle mixture set too lean. When you accelerate slowly you aren't getting any help from the acceleration pump. The fat that it goes away when warm further supports this thesis. When setting the idle mixture you should put the screw half-way between the points where you notice a drop in RPM. Your idle jets may also be on the small side and going one size up may eliminate the problem. My car was built with too small idle jets and had a flat spot between 2000 and 3000 RPM when accelerating slowly, even when hot. It was cured when I had larger jets installed. Anker

Its so cool I can't resist. How much? Anker

This sounds like a typical vapor lock in the fuel lines. If it is, the solution is to insulate the fuel lines from the heat of the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine, or possibly reroute them so they a further from how objects.

They need to lift one of the front wheels off the floor to check the steering linkage. Make sure they place the jack under the tow ring and not some other random place that can damage the frame. They will most likely ask you to drive the car into the bay and let you operate the switches that, if yours is like mine, are unlabeled.

The gas station at the junction of SR 117 and SR 62 in Stow is a great place. They love exotic cars and they inspect all of my cars. Mention the red and aluminum Caterham and my two Porsche Boxsters to them and say that I recommended them. Anker

Reducing caster would absolutely have changed the amount of effort to turn. Toe-in also has an effect. For track I would do 0 degrees toe. It makes the car sensitive to camber, but in my opinion that's good for a track car.

I'll be looking for you. Mine is currently out of action. I pulled the head last week and the valve seals I had bought were the wrong size. I am trying to find a source for them.

I am pretty sure mine is the fast rack and yes, my arms are tired after a day of autocross, but I love never having to move my hands on the wheel on the course.

What town are you in? I am in Stow!

The head is completely off. I wanted to take a close look at everything from the top. There is negligible cylinder wear, some carbon buildup everywhere that I'll clean off, and the valve guides were completely loose on the guides and pretty loose on the valve stems. I did it because I get some smoke when it has idled for a while and I then give gas. My experience is that comes from oil being sucked into the cylinder through the valve guides when there is significant vacuum in the intake. I ordered some Ford guides from Pegasus for the Formula Ford that look like the ones I removed. If they fit I'll order some better ones from either Burton or Pegasus, and do a replacement when it starts smoking again.

I took the head off my 1700 SuperSprint engine because it was smoking after idling. My suspicion was that the valve seals were to blame, and on inspection I am correct. They don't seal to the valve guide at all and seal poorly to the stems. I had bought a set of seals from Pegasus, but they prove to be the wrong size. Can someone tell me what seals I need and where I can purchase them? Thanks/Anker

There are good manuals available online on maintaining and tuning Webers. Pegasus will also sell you sets of jets to try and allow you to return the ones you don't need for a refund. I had a 2000-3000 RPM flat spot in mine and a set of bigger idle jets solved that problem. I didn't do it myself, because I have a shop that knows how to fix Webers a 1/2 hours drive from home.

Never thought of that, Thanks!

Hey Aidan, I asked my inspection station. They said that the second sticker invalidates the first one. And you can only get one sticker per inspection. They also told me that the cops can see whether your car has been inspected when they run your plates. My experience is also that the cops treat Sevens much like motorcycles, very leniently. I'm in Stow, so very close! Abjer

I have a spare Crossflow oil sump that I may be willing to part with. Can you tell me how deep your current sump is? Anker

That's a great idea. I have inadvertently hit the key with my knee in autocrosses and shut off the ignition. The first time I thought my engine had died, I don't need the steering lock and moving the ignition switch away from my right knee will give me peace of mind.

I got some really cool goggles that fit over my glasses and inside my "antique" helmet.

Ouch! My primary use of the Brooklands is going to at autocrosses where I like the reduced wind resistance. We AX on a former military airfield and our courses are long and fast, officially maxed out at 60 mph, but on my Boxster S I have managed to hit the rev limiter in 2nd, which happens at over 70 mph. On any longer trip the windscreen and side screens go on. It takes just 10-15 minutes to reconfigure the car. I am amazed that your windscreen didn't collapse into your lap. The four bolts that hold the stanchions are only help by the skin. I can see that is has been puched back some!

Yes, forgot to mention that. The front license plate lives in the "trunk" with a set of tie wraps. "Officer, the plate just fell off and I have it right here ready to put on again!"

I put the wind screen on for inspection!

I wore my regular glasses for this run, but will buy a real set of goggles.