KnifeySpoony

I didn't install my repeaters, because racecar.

Some people do this: But I did this (not my photo, my glue is black)

I used sikaflex 221 (there are many formulations, but I arrived on this one for reasoning that I cannot recall). I have had no issues up to 120mph on bumpy track surface. My technique was the one advised in the new build guide - ie the entire wingstay is enclosed in glue.

I'm glad the article helped get your ohmmeter juices flowing. I'm definitely not an expert on this kind of stuff; I'm constantly learning. Oh and the roads around Alice's are fantastic. Oh and the weather is (almost) always perfect.

You may find this an interesting read: https://www.autometer.com/blog/faq-post/water-temp-gauge-reads-high/

Check the dipswitches inside your tach - mine were set wrong. Went back and forth with Caterham, trying different ECU tunes, wasting time. Took 2 min to fix (against Caterham's advice lol).

I did not slacken off the bolt. I just put the torque wrench on and tightened it to spec. There is no clearance to put the torque wrench on the nut, so I have to tighten the bolt while holding the nut with a wrench. The bolt is lubed and secured with a nyloc.

Interestingly, I found this tidbit in the UK 7 race rule book: "" It is permissible to replace the rear-most mounting bolt of the Watt’s link for a longer bolt of similar specification, enabling a nyloc nut to be fitted to the end of the bolt protruding from the chassis bush, preventing the bolt from loosening in use." https://cms.caterhamcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/2021-Caterham-Seven-Championship-UK-Regulations-Published-Copy.pdf So, this is clearly a known issue. However, I already have a nyloc as supplied in the original kit, and as above, the nut isn't actually loosening.

My 420R runs cooler (about 200F while on track, but temps go higher when idling in pits after coming off, up to 208, then the fan kicks on), but I have dry sump with oil cooler. What is your water/oil cooling setup like? edit: random question: does your car have LSD option or is it open diff? Just curious to know based on the ease in power oversteer you were getting. I'd assume it was LSD.

Pure sex...

Reminded me of:

I could but a plug under the dash would avoid having to take the bonnet off and save me 17 seconds. Hence why it's not a priority and I haven't done it yet. Also the fact that I have a battery disconnect so I haven't needed to do any battery maintenance actually. I do have a tiny little antigravity battery that I need to modify the current battery tray to accept. But in theory, the lithium will be in even less need of a top up charge.

I was supplied the fuse box cover for a RHD car with my kit. I had to get the LHD version sent out, but ended up not installing it. I also didn't install my knee panels. I figure easy access to under the scuttle was a bigger priority than any cosmetic concerns. Not to mention the weight savings!!! My plan is to wire my 12V socket wires to an SAE plug for battery maintainer. Haven't got around to it yet.

Yeah, cutting the hole for the intake was a bit frightening. So worth it though.

Nothing wrong with a couple of speedholes...

Definitely worth setting up something like this, IMO.

lol i'm famous - do I get royalties?

A few more, including another size comparison.

Length comparison:

Walked out of a store, looked in the direction of my car, and it was gone!! Oh, actually it's just COMPLETELY HIDDEN by a Fiat 500. Yes, my car is right on the other side. An S3 7 is indeed a small car. In fact I I rolled my car back so the rears were even and the Fiat is easily 14" longer.

That's interesting about the rear wings. I can see about exposed carbon rear wings having a glass underlay for strength or something. But why would they offer a painted CF rear wing? Presumable the only reason to spec that is for weight saving (IE not cosmetics)...

This, exactly.

Nice work. Can you tell me about your license plate mount there? Is that a factory piece or your own solution?

Not to derail but my carbon front wings (as well as aeroscreen) are certainly not carbon over fiberglass. They are real carbon and very light. My kit was delivered 2021. The wings had tillett labeling on them. My rear wings are standard fiberglass, so I can't comment there.

Yes, the manual lists the "cruciform", but I have read horror stories of bent tubes. Also, with my jack stands supporting the front, I cannot fit my floor jack in between their bases to access the cruciform anyways, hence my use of the tow eye. Also I misspoke re: the rear. I use the A-frame/Dedion point.