JBH

After watching that video posted by Tom on the Handling Thread, I had to repost it here to point out a few things: 1. Every time you turn the wheel you are losing speed. You want to keep the wheel as straight as possible for as long as possible, especially when accelerating. For examples, look at the video at locations 1:28 (coming out of the lightbulb), 1:49 (going into turn 2), 2:11 (where he pulls in close to the turn prior to turn 7 - the lefthander), around 2:29 when he pulls over to the left side of the track and then the entrance to the lightbulb at 2:35 where he hugs the inside rather than using the banking) and finally once again at 2:47 where he pulls tight to the cone on the right side of the track. All of these are unnecessary deviations from the proper line, scrub speed and increase the distance the car travels. 2. The driver consistently enters turn one early, decelerates and has to correct coming out of the turn. Not only is the line wrong, but the last thing you want to do going uphill is unsettle the car by lifting off the throttle. Man, after missing this turn three times in a row, I could have predicted something bad was going to happen. Stop the video before each turn-in cone and look at his hand position. You will see he starts turning the wheel early making it difficult to properly hit the apex on many turns - all leading to car control issues and loss of speed. 3. You don't have to apex every turn and curve in the road. This particular driver, like many of us, cone seeks meaning if we see a cone we think that must be the correct line. This is why this driver turns the wheel too much as I pointed out above. He even apexs curves in the road that are not really turns. His line into Turn 2 is way too tight because he thinks he should apex it. This makes the following righthander unnecessarily sharp and leads to him having to counter steer. The correct line through turn 2 is actually the middle to outer third part of the track as this creates a wider and continuous arc that carries more speed through the turn and sets up better for the right and quick left. This is an excellent example of how turns need to flow smoothly and connect to one another. 4. Try to be smooth. You should be able to turn in the wheel and hold it steady through the turn without counter steering. Counter steering is used when you have made mistake and need to fix it. It should not be a regular part of every turn. I would never ride with this driver because I know something bad is going to happen - he is trying to go too fast, needs to correct often and likely loses a lot of time compensating for it. Listen to his tire squeal. You want your tires to chirp, not squeal! Enough beating up on this poor guy. Watch the video - you decide.

After watching that video of a crash on Lightning, I am going to start a driving thread that emphases proper line and smoothness. With respect to handling, that BMW was downright evil. Kitcat - I run Hoosiers and never see oil starvation. I'm not sure you need an Accusump (though I wish I had a dry sump), but maybe I am not driving fast enough.

As Tom mentioned, George did mine. I think the advantage to having it made locally is the cage is certain to fit. There were some questions raised about the mounting points on my chassis when I started looking at the Caterham units. The other deciding factors were the cost was lower than Caterham and it could be painted to match my car. Tom: Hans + rollcage = another 2 minutes to put on the helmet. http://usa7s.com/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=4922&d=1364935002

Can you please explain this: "...then these will need to be changed out for high impedance injectors or else the ecu will eventually fail" ? What do the high impedance injectors look like? This engine looks pretty much like mine - I have 10000 track miles on it with a top end rebuild last year, but no changes to injectors.

It's probably obvious to most of you, but it is critical that safety belts fasten and remain fastened across the structural parts of your body: pelvis, shoulders, collarbone, ribs, etc. We would much rather take an impact to these parts of our body as opposed to our organs. This is true in your family car as well - make certain the belts are not placed nor ride up to soft tissue.

I saw the thread on 4MARIO's Stalker accident. I still shake my head at the thought. Glad everyone was ok. This may be a case where head-on impact was better than a side impact (from the Stalker's perspective). Anyway, there was some side discussion about harness mounting points and I thought it worthwhile to start a thread that attempts to answer some of then questions and perhaps misconceptions about where and how to mount your harnesses. To start, I found this picture that provides some good information. The belt manufacturer websites provide many more details, but they remain consistent with this diagram http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/x-images-more/harness-bars-install-diagram-Install4CWeb.jpg

I've been traveling too much to visit this site - I'll save the date too!

Just ask me how long I had to wait for simple replacement parts after an early year crash of my Caterham at the track. The holdup? An aluminum radiator. You drive the car, you accept the shortcomings that come with it. Old cars are not more reliable than new cars. In the 60s no one even thought about a transmission or engine that would exceed 100,000 miles. Today, we just expect it despite the fact that the cars are faster, handle better and are much safer than the cars they replace. Every car manufacturer has issues with part reliability and supply. Own a Ferrari and then you will learn to appreciate parts that last longer than 10000 miles. Nobody files class action suits against them because everyone understands performance has a cost (that and the buyer probably has more money than they know what to do with). I think the reasons for the ISB failure are pretty well known and I believe there are aftermarket fixes. If you don't think it's reasonable to put out the money for that fix, then you don't have the correct understanding of the cost relationship associated with high performance cars.

I like it

All good stuff there. Reminds me of my 78 911. I was getting an intermittent throttle response, smelled a slight hint of gas (nothing unusual in old 911s), stopped to lift the rear bonnet to see if something was loose and found fuel spraying out of the fuel filter right into the rear fan. I have never moved so fast in my life to get to the ignition key (left side in P cars). I had a fire extinguisher in the front, but one spark and the car and I would have been toast. Counted my blessings that day. You smell gas, shut everything down.

One person - driver @ 175 lbs. I found carrying a second passenger significantly changed the handling and not for the better. I can't believe others think it helps (and it shouldn't if the car is set up correctly for driver only). I really feel the additional weight in the corners. I think I have my car set up in the trailer. As I remember, it was possible to dial in the corner weights to take out a left side weight bias. Each car is different too. What works for one may not be the same for another.

One of the biggest benefits I noticed after corner balancing the car was under hard braking. I was flat spotting the right front tire on a regular basis because it had less weight on it and locked before the left front. After corner balance, braking distances were shorter and no more flat spots.

Wow, that's impressive. Wonder what the build time was...

Pete It was great to meet you. Welcome to the adrenaline club. It only gets better (and more addictive) from here. The camaraderie is a big part of why I joined NJMP. From the moment they saw my Caterham, Tom and Croc embraced me as one of their own. That sold me instantly. Hope to see you again soon. Not sure about this weekend - trying to workout some details. I'll still be driving the Boxster, but I am trying to push repair of my Seven in time for the gathering. Jeff

Wow...the climb to Kemmel appears to be very steep. Any idea of the grade?

I don't blame Mary at all - it happens. If you look at the tire marks on that turn, many other people have experienced the same dynamics. Only in the Caterham. I have been off course many times in other cars. Did you see my first lap (actually 2nd turn) at the last NJMP event in the Boxster ? Under yellow flag no less.

It was my GF that went off course. Fortunately, she was not hurt. I am pretty surprised the car let go like that - it has been my experience that spins occur in a pretty tight circle. I don't think I have ever had all four wheels off. Anyway... I think the ABS/Fiberglass is the way to go though that decision is not based on an expectation of any further damage to the car. Thanks for your advice.

You make a good point about the carbon fiber though I think the new wings tend to standup better. That said, I could see fading and loss of luster over time in a replacement fender in the rear. The front wings were covered with the 3M protective film when the car was built in 2002 and they looked brand new (until the crash). If I go with CF, I'll definitely cover with film

As some of you know, my Superlight suffered significant damage as a result of an off track excursion. The frame is bent, steering rack bent, radiator dislodged, etc. All of that can be rebuilt, but the question is whether to replace all the carbon fiber components (fenders and nose) or just use fiberglass Difference in price is $2500 for CF vs. $700 for Fiberglas. Although the nose was painted body color, all the other CF components were left unpainted. That's the way the car was built in 2002. I think I want to keep the car somewhat original (a removable cage being the only modification heretofore), but I am interested in your thoughts and suggestions. Do you think the value of the car is compromised by using FG? The rational me thinks, it's a track car, so who cares, but the emotional me thinks it is a special car that should maintained as it was built. I believe Karl may have some insight on this having faced somewhat the same predicament.

I went to Home Depot and bought some black vinyl shelf liner (or something similar). It adheres every well (to carbon fiber fenders) and it's easy to peel off. There is no adhesive on it - just have to apply it uniformly and rub out any remaining bubbles. Even after track use, I only change it once a year.

(1) Buy the latest model SA Helmet (2) Do not buy it online unless you went into a shop and tried that model on first. I have found helmet sizing to be somewhat like clothing - it differs from brand to brand (3) Different helmets have different features - look through some of the higher priced brands to see which appeal to you (4) Get a helmet that is Hans ready. It's not that hard to drill the holes for the anchors, but it is better (cheaper too) if the fixtures are there. If you start driving HPDE, get the Hans too. (5) Buy arm restraints. Many clubs and tracks are requiring them for open cockpit cars. In the event of a rollover, you can not control your arms - they need to stay as close to the body as possible. Seems like all the safety requirements are excessive, but if I am out there driving the car near the limits, I want to make sure I have as much protection as possible. Let's face it - a Seven provides only minimal structural resistance to impact. We need everything we can get. The next upgrade for my Seven is a fuel cell (which should have been done this winter)\.

I am in, IF the car is back together.

That's a pretty good day though I can't make it in April. Right now I am looking at Bertil Roos 5 day course in May at NJMP. I have lots to learn and I want that license! I hope there are others that can take advantage of this offer.

Wow...congrats Paul! Hope you can join us at NJMP (me in the Boxster for the time being). Excuse me, but Comet Blue is the faster color

It's about state of the art engineering and performance - I Like it!