IamScotticus

@inchoate do you have a fan back there too?

All good points. The necessity is something i contemplate.. As for location, I haven't seen OCs mouted anywhere else on 7s.

I have this Setrab 6" oil cooler. is it too big to go in front of this radiator? Radiator has a puller fan on back.

I see a lot of grime Its amazing what a cleaning and fresh grease can do.

Noooo! Not my thread!

Taking the engine out is a rite of passage. The clutch will eventually need service. The next best thing would be almost removing the whole engine, with disconnecting prop shaft, cooling, speedo and anything necessary, unbolt mounts and remove rear mount, lift engine with a crane just off the mounts, rsaise the rear of the car up until you can access the tail housing. Nope. Just pull it out. Remember to catch oil that will pour out the tail. This is a good opportunity to refresh and check many things early in your ownership. Believe it ir not, the transmission seals and clutch could have a much shorter life in a 1200 lb whip than a full size sled. Clutch wear, flywheel surface, transmission input and output sals, rear engine seals, mounts. All these can be refreshed and balanced ensuring you have a nice long ride. Welcome to Sevening! You are now chief engineer and pit crew for a race car!

Hi David. Beautiful car. What engine and transmission do you have?

Should the steering rack (or coupler) be separated for this?

Honestly, my wheel might have come off with some persuasion. But my wheel had been off previously in the last ten years and I know I didn't over tighten it. I made this tutorial for those out there having more difficulty.

Ok For those with the ubiquitous Mountney GT wheeel, here is how I pulled mine and believe it or not, I didn't break anything! I don't think this needs much explanation but heres a few points to keep in mind: * Be aware of the location of the horn contact on the back, if you care about it, it could get damaged. * My claw was a very tight fit next to the speedo bezel. Too much of an angle and it could get damaged. Ensure the claw is fully seated don't let it ride out as you tighten the puller. * Precautionary stuff: SAFETY! Save your coils, DISCONNECT BATTERY. You will want to release the steering lock to do this, thus engaging the electrics. If your horn button is live, you could short something in the removal of the centre plate. * Tape is your friend. use it everywhere. * Sharpie marker to record the index location of the wheel. This may change after alignment so consider how tight you put this back together before alignment. * Once turning the puller, the hub loosened in about a half turn, easy. * The collumn nut is a lock nut that took a 3/4" socket. NEVER REUSE A LOCK NUT. I measured the thread at 1/2x20 SAE. But I haven't been able to chase with a regular nut to confirm it. No, I didn't use any lube. IMPORTANT: Always replace a lock nut with a new one, don't reuse a lock nut. I had previously removed my horn contact ring so that wasn't in the way. I got out my horn ring and I believe there is enough clearance for the claws to grip the rim.

Probably have a six bolt Mountney GT? The hub will be an aluminum alloy that may have corroded to the shaft. In which case a puller will be required. I am having difficulty removing my wiper arms and read on L7C that the spindles are pot metal and known to corrode and seize to the arms. That seems to be what's happening to me so I assume it could happen to the steering hub. Puller. Ive been wanting to get mine off as well so lets see if any of my articulated pullers do the job tomorrow.

Is that a kir car?

Hijack alert: The question of why the 7th mark was reserved for a later designation is a good one worthy of a new thread. Perhaps the Austin 7 has something to do with it. As you all know, the early trials cars Colin built that led to the Mk6, were Austin 7 based. Perhaps the 7 was reserved for a successor to the 6, a trials influenced body of similar construction, which describes the 7 well. We can say the origin of the Lotus 7 is the Austin 7.

No, I might reuse one for a header tank overflow catch, but the other catches and reservoirs will be fancy racing stuff riveted to something. Not a fan of where Cat chose to mount some of those bottles. Might use one for a screen washer bottle with a manual push button jet pump. Eliminate another wire circuit and switch.

Pics of the diff swap! How long will your break-in be?

I'll contribute, Maintain visibility and awareness of how small you are. If you cant see the other guys mirrors, they can't see you. Even so, inches matter. The worst place to lurk is anywhere next to a car. You won't be in a drivers peripheral vision until you are a full car length in front. Most drivers are zombies driving in a trance. When I was driving my 7, I played a game where I would pull up along side someone and wait to see how long it took to notice me. I often went unnoticed until I passed out front. Likewise, your area of visibility in back is much farther because cars trunk lines are higher. Figure you need 5 car lengths behind, or more. My style in a 7 is to speed out of groups of cars to not get boxed in. Falling behind works for some things, but in general, creating distance from others asap is staying safe. People all have cameras now and want to share everything on instagram, including you. They will run into you, or someone, trying to share your cute little car with all their friends. Just pass them quick, don't give them the time. People steer toward what they are looking at. If you've never been an aggressive driver before, in a seven is time to learn.

is it a lottery system for a SB100?

It usually goes like this: Q: What is is? A: Lotus 7 Q: Is it fast? A: No, but its quick. Q: Is it expensive? A: 20-50K average, or less. Do you have any wierd cars? A: I had a Miata one time in the 90s. A: They made these with Miata parts too. Flyin Miata. Q: Did you build this yourself? A: Yes, partially Q: Is it safe? A: Safer than a motorcycle

Same here, but my goal is to keep the seat back, fit the pedals to my length, and be able to remove the sliding rails lowering my position. 5' 7", 29" inseam. Im already short. Im asking a lot of this car. Damn long cockpit . Regardless, there is an ideal position for the stick, 5-6 inches to the side of the wheel rim.

I like to keep it simple to avoid a long explanation, "Lotus 7", answers a lot of questions quickly with a name most people recognize. Also, if they care to do the research, any search for Lotus 7 will lead them down the right path.

Carcoon bubble?

I don't yet know whats involved wirh the T9. The T2, the lockout is built into the shifter ball with a spring requiring a push down to overcome a block but there isn't any lock in the linkage after that, so the remote serves the function. The T9 might follow the same logic, but with a 5th gear on the right, and R to right, range of motion is a concern. I will have all this set up on a test mule dolly so I can work on it before going in the car. I even have an extra T2 remote takeoff. This is why I don't get anywhere

Because many causes are not visible, just start with eliminating the usual suspects. You may have had a leak you didn't discover until now. Firstly, if messing around with fuel components 💥☠️, disconnect the battery. Just do it. Until you get everything back together. Pressure/venting. All fuel tanks need venting of some kind. Excessive tank pressures, positive or negative pressure, can produce leaks. Inspection stations had gas cap pressure testing equipment. See if you have a vented cap and test it. If the rubber components like hoses, necks, caps etc. are old, ten years or more, the exteriors may look good but the rubber could be hard and gaps open under the clamps, especially if the clamps are non-expanding like worm gear types. Everything on a 7 gets rattled and shaken. Rubber fuel lines that have hardened can get cracks. Just replace every rubber fuel part back there if its old. Just do it as a maintenance item. Same can be said for rubber brakes lines. During the part replacement process, drain the tank, cap all the barbs and pressure test the tank with a leak-down test. Dont put so much pressure that you hear a hiss, just enough to get about 15 psi on a gauge and let it sit for an hour. A quick loss of pressure will be an immediate clue. To test the tank its probably easier to cap the filler neck with a big cap and attach a vaccuum pump like a Mighty-Vac to a smaller barb like a vent or the fuel outlet. Unless you have a bladder or foam filled, you may not get enough gas out to use the fuel outlet. As for the overfilling, I have had the initiation ritual of being chatted up by people at the fuel pump with the usual questions and admiration. Just as Im so glowing with pride, proud of myself that I have such an awesome toy, my leg get showered with gas, in front of everyone 😬. It is for this reason, and another reason, that I will no longer use the bent filler neck. I will use a straight rubber riser (fuel grade) under the boot cover. This way I can see the fuel level, or use a stick. My fuel tank filler neck diameter is 2.25". if that helps.

Gas is pretty harmless unless its on paint. Don't wipe wet gas off paint, let it dry first. let it dry, avoid doing hot electrical work in the area. Clean the area with a diluted degreaser.

That bottle has been on every Cat since the 80s. My ginormous washer bottle uses the same mount. Those mounts were a pretty zinc cadmium that corroded.