IamScotticus

You're a beginner?

Im looking for the S3 drop-in kit to bolt up a motor to the bell, two big cells on the side and cooling down the center. That shouldn't be very complex. Heh, watch Birkin do it first!

The best line here, "Science advances one funeral at a time" https://arstechnica.com/space/2023/05/at-long-last-the-glorious-future-we-were-promised-in-space-is-on-the-way/

Its a mixed bag with RL. some members here have had recent service. I don't know.

https://www.thundersport.co.uk/ http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/ http://softbitsforsevens.co.uk/ Chris Mintoft at Redline UK Caterham, of course. You might need to change out the bullet fasteners in the windscreen to popper bases.

Search the MG/AH forums. they must be the BMC experts

Your case breather was capped at some time for a dry sump. This goes in the plugged hole above the fuel pump boss: https://www.burtonpower.com/breather-elbow-23-5mm-ford-x-flow-691m-711m-ohv-kent-fp280a.html this or a genuine OE Ford oil-air separator. And if you're getting that from Burton, might as well get a blanking plate with splash deflection https://www.burtonpower.com/fuel-pump-blanking-plate-with-deflector-fp281.html Although there's nothing wrong with the mechanical fuel pump. Formula Ford run them hard and they're self pressure regulated.

is the case vented?

What oil pressures are you expecting?

An old trick is to chock the front wheels and jack up the rear really high, angle in the eng while lowering the chasis as you feed the tail through the tunnel. then with the eng and trans mounts still loose, raise again to instal the shaft. Keep the mounts loose until all ancillaries are installed for intake and exhaust positioning when on the ground. More than helpful...

Are the arms Mini?

PM coming soon

Although a $6-700 gantry is a huge investment, and makes more sense for a professional outfit (planning for the future), I have read many times of issues using "cherry pickers" on sevens that have been problem fraught. I saw how one fellow had to extend the boom so far, the rear legs needed extra weight added to keep from tipping. It would probably less of an issue for 7s up on wheel ramps where the legs can roll between the wheels, but chassis stands tend to get in the way.

Ooooh! A teachable moment! please give us a pic of the hoist used. My future engine plucking plan is a gantry hoist.

consider the metallurgy of the fasteners...shear points and all. you might want to make sure your lifting bolts and hardware are grade 8 at least. you don't want an oh sh1t moment

I just want to know about Marine day?

I will dump my notes on the subject here. These are all from various sources, not my material. SifBronze No. 2 from Weldability Sif U.K. Arch has been using the gas jet flux braze welding process since the 1950s. The Lotus Seven at Anglo Canadian BRONZE WELDING RODS By William Fayers In Uncategorized March 31, 2021 10 Min read BRONZE WELDING RODS SUITABLE FOR REPAIRS TO YOUR LOTUS submit your comments or input here Nickel Bronze Brazing Rod. Contemplating some minor chassis frame repairs to my Lotus Seven Series 3, I decided to investigate the availability of suitable nickel bronze brazing rod to complete the repairs. In January 2014, I commenced a search of the web for suitable sites regarding Nickel Bronze Welding. I found a forum whereby contributors were asking questions and receiving good advice regarding bronze welding on Formula Ford and other sports racing cars manufactured in the U.K. The name of Calor Bronzecraft No.3 cropped up a few times. One contributor noted that it was now unavailable (2011 post), but that it was the rod of choice for Lotus, Arch Motors, and a number of other U.K. manufacturers of sports road and racing cars until its demise. I already had a good article on braze welding written by Bill Steagall, who had kindly forwarded a copy to me. It has been published in a couple of Lotus club magazines, describing how to braze weld with nickel bronze rod using a jet fluxer. Bill had also added a postscript advising that Calor Bronzecraft No. 3 was unavailable since writing his original article. I found the Murex Company (U.K.) web site, and at the time of writing (March 2014) Murex still had the specifications of their “Saffire” Nickel Bronze rod (10% nickel content) displayed on their site. An email reply from the Murex Technical Section advised that Murex had ‘moved on’ from gas welding products, and their line of braze welding rods and associated fluxes were no longer available. A rod called SifBronze No. 2 (from Weldability Sif U.K.) was highly recommended by a few of the forum contributors. These included an ex-Arch employee now living in New Zealand who still prefers a jet fluxer for braze welding, and a U.S. auto repair shop specializing in sports racing car repairs, likewise using a jet fluxer. I have recently been in contact with Bruce Robinson at Arch Motors and although he is a busy man, he kindly took the time to answer a few questions regarding their history with Lotus. Bruce advised that Arch has been using the gas jet flux braze welding process since the 1950s. They initially manufactured wishbones, brackets, pedals etc., for Lotus, and in January 1968 commenced construction of the Lotus Seven Series 2 chassis frame and associated parts. This was followed by the remainder of the Seven line (Series 3 and 4 cars), as well as Formula Ford chassis for Lotus and other constructors. Colin Chapman fully approved of the braze welding process for tubular chassis frame construction. Bruce noted that since the demise of Calor Bronzecraft rod, Arch now use SifBronze No.101, which is specifically formulated for use with the jet flux process. No.101 is a manganese/silicon bronze rod with no nickel content (according to the specification sheet on their web site), and has an ultimate tensile strength of 66717 p.s.i. (converted from the Newton/mm2 on the spec. sheet). For anyone interested in seeing how this product flows, please see the ‘YouTube’ videos “Ariel Atom Bronze Welding”; “Bronze Welding V8 Ariel Atom”; and “Bronze Welding” all by an excellent welder – Brian Ashcroft, using jet flux equipment and SifBronze No.101 rod. Brian Ashcroft advised me of the following: “I have used the Sif No.2 and it does weld very similar to No.101, it just doesn’t run quite as nicely. We found that No.2, although having a higher ultimate tensile strength, did tend to be more brittle than 101 which is why we prefer 101. I haven’t come across a weld failure with 101 yet in my 18 years of using it” (Note: Michael Costin and David Phipps allude to nickel bronze or manganese bronze welding in their book “Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design” published by Robert Bentley Inc.).

who happens to have a gas fluxer on hand!!!

The problem you might encounter with MIG/TIG on an area that has other gas welded joints is the the electricity may ruin any gas welds connected to the area. A trained eye can spot the difference.

a smear of axle grease on the bottom will help keep oil in.

I don't know Pintos well, but in general, yes, aftermarket VCs usually can use OEM gaskets. Cork gaskets may have tabs on the sides that might need removal. Check out Walsh for Pinto action https://racerwalsh.com/

A grease can break down and liquify with heat and time. My grease gun with a tube in it did just that, leaked out and made a mess of the bucket it was in.

Its not a critical value, its as tight as needed. Light smear of oil resistant RTV silicone sealant between the VC and gasket so it sticks to the cover when removed. Consider the VC an item that is periodically removed for valve lash checks and adjustments, so keep it easy to remove as needed. What makes gaskets leak is over tightening because the compression and heat dries out the material and it hardens. When the engine surfaces expand and contract the gaps open up to leak. Hand tight on those and watch it.

Was it a product of the 21 program?

Thanks for the pics everyone! @Vovchandr Ive seen that radiator on csts before, is that standard Cat issue?