IamScotticus

Hose in ear to balance the carbs. Its imple, it works, its in the book

What is an English axle? This is probably common knowledge in UK, but here? All I know is there are English and Atlas. I could spend hours reading up on them. The parts and aftermarket support are greater for these than the other axles used in 7s. What cars used these and are they found in the states? Weight, PCD, etc?

Here is good Standard 10 help from @Oddbrit "From earlier posts you might remember that I was having issues with my Series 2 (Standard 10) rear axle. The previous owner had drilled out the stud holes in order to fit studs appropriate for the Ford Escort wheels he was using. I want to return the car to it's original configuration with narrow fender and Triumph Herald rims. I found new hubs from a Standard 10 supplies in England but did not want to pay the price. So I starting thinking that Triumph probably did not just use these hubs on Standard 10 so starting thinking of other similar sized cars in the Triumph family at that time. My thoughts went to Heralds and Spitfire but those had independent rear axles. Looked at the Moss catalog and saw they still used a taper axle with keyway for fitment. So today I took one of my Standard 10 hubs to our local British used parts supplier and compared to a Spitfire hub. BINGO! Perfect match and $10 each so I was quite happy! Also found the oil seal and paper retainer plate gasket also interchange." Thanks for the extra effort.

When you say bezel, are you also referring to the bowls? Lucas or Cibie? I would upgrade the lamps.

McGooham wore these in blue on the Prisoner. Get your boating Blazer.

No practical experience. Just repeating information. You are correct. Caterpillar uses a yellow. Around here Cat is a common abbreviation for Caterham. TONKA is a distinctive yellow also. As for me, I will look for a hardware store rattle can paint. I consider the skill set and paint availability to be able to do spot repairs, more reasonable than an exotic $$$ professional paint job. One gash and you're stuck with it. Or not. It's up to you. My signature line now states the reality of what a 7 really is. It's very difficult to not damage it, so just accept now that repairs are in your future.

Didn't you prefer the Carter P90091?

This info was previously provided by Mr. Phipps: Cterham green-1 litre using Exalta Centeri (formerly DuPont) paints. AM 32=277 gr AM 43=399 gr AM6=478 gr AM1=488 gr AK100=977 gr Mr Phipps also mentioned Mercedes Sunburst Yellow 1685 is almost identical to Cat yellow and Ditzler #46446/GN29 is similar to Cat green BTW guys, this is a lot of good info (mine as well) being lost under an irrelevant thread category and subject line. Im always considering the next guy looking for the information. We want Information.

Why aren't these moving? It's a great deal.

Any luck, Bill?

I don't know your engine history, but if it's like mine, had sat a while, had various coolant mixing offences committed, there may be areas of the cooling in the engine clogged with congealed coolant. You found your problem, just contributing for future readers.

I was going to suggest a coolant hose inner liner or winding layer may have separated and formed a flap blocking flow. I didn't know they could do this until I was talking hoses with a man at an auto psrts store (a man who knew a Pinto bell housing when he saw mine). He mentioned the older wound hoses would unravel inside. Is that chassis grey Lotus original?

Shoes:I second the wrestling shoes. But walking in them isn't ideal for long. Oft, just looking for "slim profile" or "minimalist" or "barefoot" running shoes will get you in the right direction. Side doors: just try to go without. Keep them folded with the hood in the boot for rain. Remove the side mirror to facilitate flatness. Try earmuffs, earplugs, goggles and hats. Hats that strap under your chin. Erecting a buffet screen in the roll bar hoop may help a lot. Ground clearance: you must know the hazards of wherever you go. Don't go anywhere you haven't pre-surveyed for hazards. Your muffler is a hook point. Do what you can to get it up higher and the lower lip above the chassis floor. Of course this makes it more challenging to step over. But, 7s aren't made for you to be comfortable. I think Daughter will accept the challenge. Bring large band-aids. Visibility: As you pull up along side of ppl, you will look to see how long it takes for them to see you. You learn quickly they don't, and half of them are looking at Twitter anyway. Then when they do see you, they start taking pictures. If you can't stay away, keep in front to be seen and at least three car lengths ahead. When parking, try to stay visible. If you have to park between cars, keep your rear or front even with the street side so you are seen.. if you park all the way deep into a space, a vehicle may careen into the space and flatten you. Stealing your stuff: I don't think your parts are much of a target. You are usually attracting enough friendly gawkers that the turds don't try anything. But if you have a removable steering wheel, take that with you. You are a show car exotic, much smaller that can break some rules and fit in tighter places than regular vehicles can so take advantage of those. Yea, it's narcissistic at times. But sometimes you have to bend some rules to protect your car. Since you have a special needs daughter, you may qualify for front row handicap parking almost everywhere you go. Get that tag and use it. Real. I took this picture at a Walmart

Just ground everything.

My interest is in the repair and patching the aluminum. I did not know if the bodywork used the fluxer or not. Good info.

Give Jeff Sloan at Brit Auto a call in Ft Worth TX. He was very active in Caterham racing in the 90s. Things have changed, but he would know about putting a series together and where. 8175897974

Even if I were able to get the elbow joins off, held together with clecos, the join at the hood stick bracket looks like it would't survive the handling. I wonder a few things about this join...are they welds or fillers? Is the material a low temperature high nickel alloy? I have read the Cat used Calor Bronzecraft No.3 (no longer available) with the gas jet flux braze welding process. A replacement or substitute is SifBronze No.2 and SifBronze 101 (thanks, Bill) Is this something within the scope of a low skill yahoo with a propane torch? Or is yahoo going to need to learn to weld? I don't see how these alloys are torched on the frame without damaging the frame coating. If I ever do a frame restoration, Im not a fan of powered coat (the reason for a restoration) I will be painting with something like a high temperature chassis epoxy paint. I don't know if that can withstand torching in.

Thanks. Good info. The Lucas looks more compact than the Semaphore

That's an interesting item. The trafficator is still more advanced. Not only is the speed of the switch set with an adjustment on the housing, but the duration is selected by the degree of angle the lever is turned. And only one switch is needed. The existing wiring to the Lucas toggle switch can go directly to the timer switch.

If you have one, you know what it is.

How does it breathe? Is there an air filter element?

Interested in this. On my 7, the left side front panel had been replaced by a previous owner but the elbow wasnt welded before being sold. I already have a set of skins that will not hold together as one piece. I ask for the benefit of future readers, and I may still be able to remove these without buckling with proper bracing. I would love to re-skin the whole car, but it's hard to justify as the damage is only few square inches of area. But its in a difficult location next to the lower frame tubes, both sides, requiring skin removal for access. Repair could be attempted from the outside but I don't want the torching to compromise the rail coating in that area that is susceptible to water ingress. (Yes, in Houston this is an amphibious swamp buggy) (Don't drive a fully loaded 7 onto a U-Haul car trailer)

You have a new excuse to add more light-ness

Ever buy a NSF type wire shelf sets to have extra shelves left over, or not enough shelves? Or missing parts? Buy extra poles and parts from this guy: Just know what you have, 3/4", 7/8" or 1" poles. https://shelfadditions.com