IamScotticus

Awww, just sell it.

ATA Carnet if not staying anywhere more than 12 months? International customs brokers are your friends. DON'T TRY TO DO CUSTOMS ON YOUR OWN

Inappropriate rant self removed

Here are some of my fav FB groups

Im currently waiting for appproval in the Ozclubbies forum. Thanks, you kmow who you are, for mentioning that forum. I wouldnt have ever found it on my own. As for the FB groups, I have had to wait a day or two. Those groups have a real problem with scammers getting in and luring victims into fake too good to be true, or even reasonable, parts sale bargians. Dont ever send money over a FB sale. The admins have to use some vetting techniques or possibly limiting admissions to control the trolls. It sucks, just wait them out. I have a shooting club membership I had to wait a year to join. the annual renewal requires passing an on line multiple choice test of the range rules. Every year there is some screwball question thrown in there to throw everyone off. If you dont pass 100% before the renewal period ends you loose your membership and wait another year or two, IF the numbers fall under 800 and they open new memberships. The only problems ive had with L7C are 1) years ago, before the great upheaval, was I got dumped because the postage cost of sending the magazine was too much. 2) auto renew didnt work and I lapsed. The other thing to know about L7C is they are structured more like a corporation in which you are a partner, not an annonymous participant. Something like that. You may share some liability. You have to agree to those terms.

JAL (Just Add Lightness) pics!

ummm... I didn't expect this. I really didn't expect such a great Caterham. That is one well loved car. You even got a Mirrors for Sevens mirror, the thinnest panoramic mirror made exclusively for 7s. You won't find those for sale anywhere.

could we have link to the listing? So can drool vicariously. not wierd or anything

I believe we are considering very light batteries, probably under 5 lbs.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/680123115377846/ https://m.facebook.com/groups/341703863245260/ dangerous territory, but there are some honest people. Have the seller send you a picture of the items with a unique identifier you specify.

exactly

That's the perfect sevener! He's already bored with normal cars! Does he know what a chick magnet a Seven is?

you must not have brought them a load of parts and said, "here is your first car, put it together". I agree with the Birkin assessment..It's the closest reproduction of a 7, next to a pre-litigation Westfield.

possibilities... https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/heatac

yea, also the clamping force from the bonnet across he top and sides. perhaps a skid pkate as well to prevent the nose bottom hooking on something in reverse?

I think the nose mostly hangs from the top fasteners, and many racers leave the bottom unfastened. I suspect a light clamp is sufficient.

here https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4660

Would these work on the bottom?

Three more details about your 7 that need to be known. Metric or Imperial? Live axle or DeDion? Because of the changes to chassis, these details must always be divulged. I never found the exact OEM applications for the various bushes, but I have come close enough to know they are mostly Triumph/Morris/ Leyland parts for the Imperial Live Axles. Also, I believe some of those bushes need to be cut short to fit. You will need a hydraulic press Here are my notes on bushes: BUSHES GENERAL ********************** Y16 (tapered)Front Suspension Link Bush AUSTIN FROGEYE SPRITE MG MIDGET & 3000 equiv: MRM220 03471R MGB AH SPRITE MK3 AH 3000 MK3 AH SPRITE MK4 CROSS REF: 2A4027 2A4163 330-520 Y16 88G274 Rover 88G274 Length: 17mm Wide end diameter: 29mm Narrow end diameter: 23mm Centre hole diameter: 12mm Fitment to wishbones and anti roll bar (8 per car) MOSS pn 330-520 *********************** Y9 (Tapered)Control/Trailing Arm Bush EAN# 5016593126077 Cross Ref: Rover 8G621 281-405 Y9 MG Midget 1/64-12/79 MG MGC/GT 1/67-9/69 MGB all TAXI FX4 1/59-12/89 TAXI FX4R 1/82-12/85 ROVER A60 CAMBRIDGE 1/62-10/69 AUSTIN HEALEY BN 1&2 53-56 BN 4&6 SPRITE MK3 3/64-10/66 SPRITE MK4 3/66-10/71 3000 MK3 3/64-10/71 Length: 23mm Wide end diameter: 29mm Narrow end diameter: 23mm Centre hole diameter: 12mm Fitment to wishbones and anti roll bar (8 per car) MOSS pn 282-305 ************************* 636 (B636/2) Length : 3.5mm (1 3/8") Total diameter : 2.7mm (1 1/16") Opening diameter : 1.3mm (1/2") ************************** B636/2 Short (S636/2A) Internal diameter: 13mm External diameter: 27mm Length: 26mm ********************* B6362 Short (B*636/2A) Internal diameter: 13mm External diameter: 27mm Length: 26mm *same as S636/2A with a "B". Typo?) ************************** RB636/2 Wishbone, A frame, Radius arm Internal diameter: 12mm External diameter: 27mm Length: 34mm **************************** BP636/2 Top Link Peened Length : 3.5mm (1 3/8") Total diameter : 2.9mm (1 1/8") Opening diameter : 1.3mm (1/2") ***************************** E2030 Radius Arm Small Length: 31mm Centre hole diameter: 9mm Outer diameter: 19mm ******************************* E2030 Short (S2030A) Length: 26mm Centre hole diameter: 10mm Outer diameter: 19mm ******************************* Bush Eyelet Front (E4-B46-608C) 35MM ******************************* Steering Column Bush (B8466) ****************************** Suspension Bush Kit Live Axle (BU03K) **************************** FRONT Tiumph track ends GSJ158 Lock nut 128022 QR1572A TRACK ENDS ADJUSTABLE ADJ TRE (SKU)CMB1500 TRACK ENDS NON ADJUSTABLE MOSS # 668-040 $16.89/PR Rimmer Bros # GSJ158Q mevspares.co.uk gt6mk2.con JWM Rose joints (don't use) **Triumph trunnion lube EP90 hypoid oil ** Trunnion assembly, washer with larger holes is set on inside ** zerk size 1/4-28 UNF

I think I heard it before, but, Are the coolant heater hose pipe taps in the carb manifolds and the pump BSP , NPS, or NPT? I thought they were BSP but I don't see the washer shoulders, and everyone Ive seen are fitted with NTP fittings, wright or wrong. The OE Ford fittings I have are tapered. The new manifold and pump I have appear to be a straight thread, although an NTP will thread, but not very far. I would prefer BSP or NPS to avoid cracking.

How many times can those tires be re-treaded?

I just made damn sure I got a 7 before I got married. @38

Definitely NO! Heaters are a required road safety item in many jurisdictions in Europe and elsewhere. Is it required in yours? It's probably simpler for Lotus & Cat to just build them in the cars, unless sold strictly as race kits. Even in the cold, there isn't any warmth from the waist up. With a hood in place, the engine heat is often sufficient. Keep the room on the bulkhead!

That's an excellent suggestion. And a good excuse to put an elbow on.

Hello, Its time for some updates on the subject. None of this is new, just new to me. I want to make it clear, the Cross flow open coolant system works, and if the radiator cap is working and the recovery tank coolant level is kept adequately for cool down return, and all the functions of the radiator cap are working, the open loop system works very well. My reading about the merrits of the closed loop system has convinced me that the purpose of it is to eliminate many of the points of failure of the radiator cap. My research has also shown that plastic expansion tanks and the pressure caps can have a high failure rate, depending on quality. These can have a greater failure rate than an open system. A plastic expansion tank will leak from its seams and caps will fail allowing boil-off. You should usually see evidence of this from pooling or seeing coolant level loss in the tank. When possible, buy OEM quality for these. Another option is use a metal surge/expansion tank and pressure cap. These have the advantage of absolute reliability and caps are available in a variety of pressure rates. The open system can be a silent killer failing to drawback overflow or a cracked cap gasket letting loose at the worst possible time. (ask me how I know) Pick your poisons. The only engines Caterham have used open systems on have been the Kents. I am not pursuing a metal tank now but if I did, https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/horizontal-header-tank-bottom-brackets https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/horizontal-header-tank-rear-brackets And there are other good tanks. Moving on... I have sourced some new parts for the closed conversion: Amazon, of course And: Fiesta Mk2/3/4 PN:6814635 Samco Sport Hose kit: The hose kit comes with 3'7" x 5/8" heater hose, perfect for the smaller expansion tanks. That length is the length from the rad mount to the footwell shelf edge. Maybe a little short for a scuttle mounted bottle to a lower hose Tee, but adequate for anywhere else. No top bleeder hose. https://samcosport.com/product-category/car-kits/caterham-7/ Lets discuss this tank, the Rover series 200 & 400, PN: EAP8713, and its cap, Rover PCD100160. It was used by Caterham on the K Series, Sigma and early Duratecs and mounted on the front top chassis cross tube. It's a fine tank but I found the Crossflow is mounted too far forward to use it on the provided brackets. The hoses would be touching and there may be a height problem too. If mounted high enough to clear the Fiesta TH, would it clear and fit under the nose? Plenty of room for the K Others have been able to use the 200/400 tank on the scuttle. Notice the cap appears to not be the standard Rover cap. Notice the fiesta thermo housings used. Where do those "7" branded cases come from? I like this Rover 200/400 tank but it's getting hard to source. The pressures for the Rover caps are ideal, in the 100 bar, 16 psi range, and the mid point fill volume is 20oz. I would prefer a taller and narrower tank to keep slosh away from the cap. 5/8" outlet. Failing other options,I will use it. The Rover 600: Used by Caterham and Lotus. Uses aforementioned Rover cap. Also used on the Lotus Elise. There's your cool Lotus connection. I really like this tank, but those stubby legs are worrisome to me. Cat parts still has the bracket The 600s close cousin, the Rover 25: Longer legs are probably an improvement. The ubiquitous Land Rover Freelander: Used by CC on everything after the Rover 600 tank. The mount for this crews into the boss in the center of the top cruciform. You always wondered what the was for, didn't you? There are other options.. The Westfield standard appears to be Opel Corsa: The Dacia Duster / Renault Kangoo I heard from one other L7C member that uses this tank on his/hers BDR. 21psi cap. I found some other miscellaneous Crossflow applications: Birkin, I believe. Anyone know this tank? As for how to plumb, the tank flow is top to bottom. The top inlet nipple is usually plumbed to a high point such as a radiator air bleed or thermostat housing. The bottom outlet is usually plumbed to the cold side between the radiator and pump inlet. It needs to be on a suction part of the circuit where coolant will be drawn out of the tank and thus, pulling air & coolant from the bleed hose location which no longer needs to be the high point, but it helps. On a Crossflow, if the pump heater inlet pipe is available, use it. If a heater is plumbed, tap into the return hose going to the pump. If running a straight line from the carb manifold to the pump, tee into that. But not if using a coolant controlled carb choke. If neither heater circuit is available, tee into the lower radiator hose. Because an expansion tank is never completely filled, the air gap retains the purged air (closed) and excess pressure is vented out the cap, which should be the highest point of the system. The coolant is allowed to expand and retract and contain sudden acceleration surges within in this vessel. In the UK, Crossflow closed system kits have been sold by Arrowstar and James Whiting.