IamScotticus

What are you using for fuel pump? If its an electric, definitely use a 3 psi regulator. If you are using the cam driven mechanical pump, you shouldn't need a regulator, but some have disagreed. There are many FRs from the various parts sellers. Pegasus is a popular supplier for Formula Ford and Kent engine parts and they do have these. Dave Bean Engineering is also excellent for parts and knowledge. You can call Ken there and he will know what you need. Your choice of FR may be determined by how you plan to locate it and the angles you need your fuel line to go. I would recommend an arrangement where you can have a pressure gage on the output to verify the actual pressure. Another thing you may be interested in is the Solex B26570 Pressure Stabilizer. I got mine at Pierce Manifolds. It's not a pressure regulator, but a surge suppressor. It evens out the flow to the bowls so acceleration peaks aren't slamming the inlet valve. Speaking of which, become familiar with adjusting your bowl float height. This is critical to be correct for good running. It's not to be assumed it is correct. This can get bent out of adjustment itself and you can adjust this yourself. From Pegasus: "Our third recommendation is to CHECK AND ADJUST THE FLOAT LEVEL. In racing, the fast guys check the float level at least once every weekend. Usually they do it when they arrive at the track, because towing the car to the track can knock the float out of adjustment. Meanwhile, you've been driving your street toy over potholes and speed bumps (or even off-road), which hammers the float even worse. And if you just bought your carb, how gently do you think the shipper handled it? CHECK AND ADJUST THE FLOAT LEVEL. This is particularly critical on downdraft carbs (DGV / DGES), where just a 4mm (5/32") drop in float height can take you from plug-fouling rich to plug-melting lean. (A book on Weber carbs would come in really handy right now.)" And my last word on pressure regulators, prices are all over the place on these. $50-100 will get you a good unit; no need to spend $300, unless your engine is a science lab and that's what you're into. But for fun driving, inexpensive (but not junk) is fine. http://davebean.com (209) 754-5802 https://www.pegasusautoracing.com 1-800-688-6946 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/default.asp (408) 842-6667 https://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/b26570.htm https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1135

Do you have 1 3/4" pipes?

I don't want to be the guy who says, look what I have, and is no help at all. But for educational purposes, I happen to have this shield that came with the car. Mine is what appears to be made of a fiberous material, like asbestos. Or something known to the state of California to cause cancer. I think my gas station hot dog had a label that said California cancer ingredients. Sorry, I don't know where it came from or where to get one now.

Ahhh, the 70s

My mid-90s Caterham Live Axle parts catalog has alternator 432836 45Ah. These early part numbers were often the generic aftermarket numbers.

I suppose consistent tension across springs is more important than actual tension?

Can anyone vouch for this type of tool? They're selling for $70-90 on Amz

Exactly. Forget about the hood. If the outter hood stick is on top of the boot frame tube, it is correct. Have it there to fill the boor cover. The difference is some sticks have a bend in them to accommodate the FIA bar hoods, etc. From 1995 Another situation are differences between DeDion and Live Axle chassis. It's possible you could have mixed parts.

I prefer the 24 hrs of LeMons

If the master is a TRW PMC146 (GMC226TRW) buy new and replace

I took a hiatus for Bruce to sell his shirts.

Wow! RedLine finally got a website!

Thanks. That helps. Just out of curiosity, on the pre- xflow, are the front and rear journals the same size? They look close.

Thanks

Is there a difference in oil pan rear gasket surface between the pre-Crossflow rope seal and later Crossflow lip seal pans?

New to me. A French action movie featuring a Caterham throughout the film.

If it helps anyone, My 90s Cat nose measures Tip to bonnet relief lip 23" Tip to rear edge 24.5" The Bonnet top length is 38-7/8".

Yes, then the pressure is released by a firm press on the brake pedal. I actually like this as opposed to a release on the knob as I would forget to release it.

If you must https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=6560 But put some new calipers on there. Save time, look better and ensure your safety. You might have a series one, or very early S2 https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-210988R https://britishclassicspareparts.com/product/brake-caliper-rh-girling-type-12-triumph-herald-1200-optional-spitfire-mk1-2-vitesse-1600-mk1-lotus-seven/ Look at it this way, put on new calipers, then take your time refurbishing the old.

THIS? Could be an anti-theft device. I think most thieves won't try to drive away, but roll onto a trailer.

This is amazing. I thought I had a pretty good S4 collection. The ubiquitous Matchbox and an obscure birthday cake topper, I assume.

Those wheels. You have no idea how hard it would be to find them in the wild.

Someone had reccomended: John Inglese Eight stack systems Lake city, Fl jimenglese@proton.me https://jiminglese.com/ No personal experience.