IamScotticus

I think the even distribution of torque is more critical than bolt tension/clamp force. Like drive shaft flange bolts, the torque spec isn't high, It's the grade of the bolt that does the work. I read five of my books on the clutch cover installation and didn't find any recommendation for Loctite on the pressure plate bolts, but at 15 lbs-ft, I doubt it would do any harm if not applied in excess. The most consistent advice is to tighten these down evenly In short steps so as to not warp the cover, AND keep the disc centered. There was one reference to the use of spring washers. These would be preferable to Loctite, I think. I will PM you some book shots, I don't want to poke the copyright bear. There is one very good point to remember on clutch discs.. The disc hub may have a high side at the center. According to Haynes Escort Mexico& RS1600, the high side should face toward the flywheel, assuming there is enough relief in the FW center to allow for disc wear. If it were reversed so the high side is toward the transmission, the spring fingers can foul on the hub? Or is it the other way around, the hub will foul on the flywheel? I suppose some measures are required. I'm not an expert on this, just something to be aware of. I'm surprised Haynes is the only book to mention it. A clutch disc supplier mentions orientation direction on a disc installation instruction website, but they are general and the opposite orientation of the Haynes instruction. None of the 1"x23 discs I got from Burton had instructions with them. Going back and reading your problem, you didn't have a problem before the slave change, but Im thinking the disc may have been incorrect beforehand. It just managed to work with the older slave. New parts tend to wear older parts quicker. Perhaps the disc hub was eventually going to bottom out? The new slave made it happen. The face of the hub definitely shows signs of contact. Nothing should be touching that face. Just guessing. You've checked everything else. PM me for a new 7.5" 1x23 road disc and some shaft lube, if I can find it. It hasn't been used for a long time. And what release bearing face do you have, flat, round? You have flat PP spring fingers. They should have a round, or donut, bearing face contacting them.

Is there a dry sump here? I've read quite a bit on oil coolers and dry sump for the Kent engine 7s and came to the conclusion that a dry sump is more beneficial than an oil cooler. For one, a dry sump (should) provide a better aerated supply of oil and somewhat cooled from the cycle. The standard Kent oil pump is the Bain of the system and over-driven. Eliminating two sources of frothed up oil gives the oil you need, not cooler oil. Also, I have head from several who, in their particular type of usage, that they couldn't warm up with a cooler. I would say of using a oil cooler, don't go too large. Four row or the water jacket type.

Dave Bean Jake Lamont

Is there a tube pressed into the cover?

You have the front stick location on the timing cover? I'm thinking Anglia and Cortina Mks 1&2

Thanks John. Check this out https://www.classicbulbs.co.uk/products/414-mechanical-flasher-unit

https://www.holden.co.uk/

Ok, I know I lack tact and empathy. I'm a jerk on a keyboard. Ignore me. Apologies. But strip away all the hurt feelings (I know there aren't any) and I still make a valid point. So here's something I'll say about the UI (User Interface for the personal check writers). I will admit I am memory loss sufferer. But I am still capable, with difficulty, of navigating multiple open apps and UIs all day at work. I get a mental work out every day. And although I've found the uploaded documents here before, it's still very difficult to locate every time I try. I know probably most Gen Xers are more competent than I, but I can certainly believe the navigation here can be clearer (General Discussion forum?). Others more senior, The "Quiet" generation, I'm sure it's more difficult for them. They're not going to complain about anything. They're much too polite. But they could still run a system well without all this computer and software stuff. They put men on the moon with slide rules. Ok, UI is a low priority. I get it. Too bad. It's still not as bad as FB (Face Book for the personal check writers). The good info is hidden in replies, not discoverable, and gone in days. I just want the good information about these cars to be easily accessible, for me, for everyone. And hopefully here for a long time. Thats all I wish for this forum.

Hylomar, anyone?

Home>Articles>Useful Resource Links> Ted Bundys bodies aren't buried this deep

Sorry, it just hard to ogle longer than a minute on the inverted picture. Beautiful crossflow.

Keeping a spare cable in the boot and the nut wrench in a tool kit is essential

Cable adjustment is a constant thing, it's going to stretch out. You will either run out of adjustment or it will snap, whichever happens first, so replacement in-between those two eventualities is ideal. A clutch replacement is an engine and transmission removal job. this means: definitely resurface the flywheel possibly replace the pressure plate (curly finger fingers or platen for flat faced bearing) definitely replace the throw out bearing definitely replace the pilot/spigot bearing definitely replace the clutch disc 190mm/7.5" Dia, 7/8"x 20 spline (4spd), Burton C752AF definitely replace the transmission fluid (Redline MTL is great stuff) definitely replace transmission front and rear oil seals definitely lube the prop shaft definitely replace the shifter saddle, if you have one definitely replace the clutch cable (5 ft)FKC1020 Escort Mk1 1600 burton CCESCYB1 possibly replace the cable speedo with a GPS unit (plug the cable drive opening) possibly replace engine and transmission mounts The good news is after all this you should have a working clutch, if you don't over tighten the bell housing bolts (yes, that is a thing). But before you go to all this trouble, just replace the clutch cable. It can stretch out unexpectedly and yes, snapping off at the top eyelet is a thing, especially with the later cheap reproductions (First Line). good info here: https://usa7s.net/ips/topic/14232-xflow-clutch-replacement/ https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/27661-clutch-release-bearing/#comment-493397 For how-to answers for your clutch job, a good start is Haynes Ford Escort MK1 1100 & 1300 1968- 74. That book should cover your clutch, transmission and most of your engine. Plenty on Ebay. I've bought many books from UK on Ebay. Another must have book is Tony Weale's 7 Restoration and Maintenance

I had a Saturn VUE that needed the clutch bled. Instructions were to submerge all 4 ft of hose, master and slave in fluid, and bleed it submerged. I sold off the car. Not because I didn't want to fix the clutch, but for a pesky door latch linkage clip that wouldn't stay connected. My point is, of all the things to do on a car, it's often the bleedings that have the most gremlins. You might have to go to extremes to get it done right.

The usual suspects? A re-bleed?

and more... https://www.thestar.com/autos/eye-candy-1985-fejer-super-seven-roadster/article_a71d6c8f-01d0-5faa-a01f-ac953bbcb3bd.html

Found this sold listing. Many nice photos. Note the defrost vents on the scuttle, if that's what they are. https://sodo-moto.com/listings/super-seven-2tg/

link?

Are original Ford head bolts available anywhere? In Jake LaMont's excellent Formula Ford engine building book, he gives excellent advice on preparing the head: Pack it up and send it off to a specialist.

While on the subject, Does anyone endorse the use of torquing Lubrication? Assuming the threads are chased and clean first. These products claim to allow for more consistent actual torque readings, with the additional leverage of the lube adjusted for, say minus five lbs-ft. They usually have thier recommended numbers to use. This is one: https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5123

Golden advice here. What happens / how do you know when the head bolts can't be torqued? Assuming they're stretched out? Do they snap?

This is one of the most amazing things I've seen anyone post here. It should also have an additional benefit of slowing the coolant flow speed.

I think Redline Components is your best source. https://redlinecomponents.co.uk/ I would call Chris Mintoft there. HOWEVER, MV8s suggestion is good, to have one made. It's a very simple piece to fab up, and could be made with additional strength. The A frame one of the things I would agree isn't worth the expense of a factory made part. These aren't Concours D'elegance cars. It won't ever be scrutinized for originality. Do plan on continuing using the original soft rubber bushes, not the hard neoprene.

Steam in the exhaust is an indicator of head gasket failure. Check oil for coolant. Check coolant for oil.

Very suspect. Why not list here where the 7 people are? It's free.