IamScotticus

Yes, that jack has the height to lift to the top tier of the stands without spacers. But I do use a block of 2×4 under the diff and a 2ft length of 2x4 under the front chassis for lifting. I had the 4x4 block handy if I needed it but I didn't. It looks tall, but its a small car. The car is only 17 inches up, floor to chassis. As for step lifting, I already had been on wheel dollies so the angles were not too extreme. If not, then yes, I would be lifting the front and back in steps. Probably just two steps. Another note, as these stand bars are only 30" long, and the verticles are spaced 23", I wasn't comfortable with that on the rear where the chassis is 39". I cut the rear stand in half and extended it 13". 1.25x36" square tube from Home Depot is a perfect fit inside.

Are you a live axle?

aww, just let them fray. i think its better to leave them loose.

see this https://www.cobraseats.com/seats.html?pid=20&cid=2

Hi Robert. We need to know the lug bolt spacing (PCD).

is there a price for the parts kit for DIY,

Sweet. since you're good at making stuff, I want that rocker cover!

there's mesh hose covers to slip over rubber hoses. most of my vehicles have had them on coolant hoses from factory. i would use it on everything. Hoses need some movement to flex with thermal expansion, vibration , engine movement and shrinkage. Secure what you need but don't bind up too tight.

i noted the same on Yoram's car. optical illusions. the tie rods give it away.

Big improvements here finally! Beater is up in the air, officially on the operating table.

Side mount? Easy? Sacrilege!

I remember being more sideways and higer... Im stuck in the 90s. could someone put up a pic of those please?

Yep. not happy with Dzuz down there and very fidfly to align. I will be considering altetrnative solutions going forward. Velcro? Rubber bands? Duct tape!

I will suffer the embarrassment for your benefit. Here is what happens after years of neglect and why Im recommending stainless here. Also, although your Dzuz are reversed in order, the captive concept is the same. Your screw should not have fallen out unless there was a constant pushing force on it for a long time. If they had released from the S springs or were never fastened to begin with, its possible they could have been worked through the holes. The winged screws are my addition. I drilled out the old rusty flush ones and riveted these in. Its really easy. You're working on fiberglass so make sure the rivits are light duty aluminum. You gotta know how to rivit if you own a seven.

When you know what you need replace everything with stainless steel, if it isn't already stainless.

Well I already learned noob lesson #1, when replacing a corroded emulsion tube from an internet vendor and paying the $7 in shipping, always get a matching pair, not just one. The new one won't be cut the same as the 50 year old tube its replacing of the same number. $$$

No, not the paper catalog. I only need trunions, spindle and brakes. On the Triumph forums there is much grumbling about Moss's felt seals being too thick. One cool dude pointed me to Spitbits for correct seals https://www.spitbits.com/store/21-HUB-SEAL-MK1-MK3-SPIT-2req-P5153.aspx As for the bearing races, they should be replaced with the cone bearings as a set. I am told they are easily tapped out with a drift and hammer on tabletop.

Cool.... I need it, with a good jet cheat sheet. From the website: The LM-2 combines an air/fuel ratio meter, a full-function 32-channel datalogger, and powerful software to deliver a complete tuning workshop for less than the cost of one dyno day. Whether you have a piggy-back fuel controller, race carb, aftermarket ECU, ODB-II tuning software, or a flash/chip programmer, an LM-2 is the tool you need to dial in maximum HP. The meter’s award-winning digital signal processing technology provides data on exactly how rich or lean an engine is running at any load. The LM-2’s self-calibrating circuitry also compensates for changes in temperature, altitude, and sensor condition. The LM-2 also features two fully programmable linear analog outputs to connect to analog gauges, dyno computers, ECUs, piggyback controllers, and other devices with analog inputs. With the provided LM Programmer software these analog outputs may also be defined by the user.

OK, I'll plan on feeding my thirsty Xflow more coolant. Lots of guys who know a thing or two put them on thier lumps and the Europeans have been on the closed system for decades now. Im not referring to a coolant overflow catch tank. Thats an open system that recovers overflow by vacuum in the cooldown cycle. Yes, my reluctant old school American but had to look it up too. From what I understand, a sealed system performs the same functions: maintains a system pressure, retains excess, purges air, etc. The main difference is the location of the pressure cap and the overflow tank must be at a high level. A closed system has the venting pressure cap on the overflow tank. The overflow is kept at the highest point and keeps an air space so it doesn't overflow. Its probably less prone to evaporate loss too. The closed system hook up is simple. There is typically a primary connection between the bottom of the tank and some point in the lower coolant flow. On a crossie that could be a T in the HWH line on the water pump. The tank willl usually have a small barb or two for any top side bleed or overflow ports. A typical one would be a standard radiator overflow barb in a thermostat housing. There isn't any critical flow science going on here. The tank is basically an air collection point that holds pressure as well as coolant that ebbs in and out of. There is an added benefit of the elimination of the old pressure cap return flow valve disc thing that should keep you awake wondering if its stuck. Thats one pesky failure point eliminated by just moving the pressure cap to the reservoir end of the system. So enuf selling the European system. The question now is what tank for my American Iron (which wasn't born here but I'll claim it). If anyone has more than three buckets of old Caterham parts, chances are good there will be one of those Vauxhall (VX) kit tanks that bolt to the the two brackets on the forward cross brace. I have one for some reason but I feel the hose route too exposed to the drive belt should it go slinging. I would rather have something neatly mounted to the scuttle wall or a bellhousing bracket. Regardless, Im going for a smallish translucent plastic pressure unit with parallel vertical mounting tabs and a 16 lb pressure cap. Currently looking through the Dorman catalogue. Suggestions are very welcome but no fancy AN stuff. Not racing.

Carb jetting is black art magic. Stay away!

Thanks, Will. Yes, I will try to make contact. Other issues with this conversion are height differences in engine mounting and the taller Caterham bonnet. I think the Lotus bonnet was about 1.5" lower and Lotus Xflow mounting may have been as well. A tall scoop on an already tall bonnet is too much. Then I may get lucky and not need a hole at all.

To conclude this thread, I have finally pulled the trigger on a set of chassis dollies. This is a big deal in Sevenship. So much can only be done off the ground and on the operating table. These are necessary equipment if the garage situation, or spouce situation, doesn't permit a full lift in the available space or budget. I looked at them all. I had preferred a set that has lower cross bracing to resist collapse when moving around, but those models don't allow rolling passage between the vertical posts, like on a creeper down the middle. The Allstar model is rated for the weight but without center bracing, so I kept looking at options. Then I figured I could construct temporary bracing to place on the legs to prevent flexing when moving (my garage floor isn't glass smooth). https://allstarperformance.com/chassis-dollies-all10625/ One of the niggles I had with most of the options were the lengths. Most averaged a 30 inch length wich leaves about 4" on each side at the rear. Not much, but to ensure perfect stability and even support I prefer a full length bar. I decided I could cut one bar in the middle and insert a square tube in the centers (I did). Cut one of the bars in half, put a three foot length of 1.25" square steel tube inside, spread the halves apart 13", drill holes on each side and insert bolts or pins to secure. If you decide this is for you, when ordering, check for free shipping. This item is just barely large enough to qualify for freight rate and some stores add extra shipping charges while others don't. Here's the end result

Thanks, Mv, I remember someone recommending that one but couldn't find the thread again. Yea, $70 is pretty stiff for what it is. I definitely want the volume. 175482284501

Liking the specs on this pump. it quiet, rotary and <4psi. https://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/3193.htm Any experience with it?

Where?