IamScotticus

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On T9s know there is a 2.8 V6 version that will require a 1" back spacer and the input tip shortened about 10mm. Fewer gear kits available for V6 version. T-9 mount needs to be elevated on a 9/16" spacer. Also know the tailhousing may not accept a speefo cable, some were electronic sender only. There is a shifter extension sold By Mattlewisracing and others that will put the shifter where it belongs, but it may not work on the V6. Bone up on this b4 buying.

blue Loctite everything

I drove mine up, snagged the muffler which ripped off the fender. And gouged both sides.

Im really considering doing a DIY with grey Eastwood high temp. The whole thing. SS against bare aluminum is too shiny.

While you're waiting for the snow to melt, required 7 viewing. Thats a horrible screen shot

This is what a U-Haul car trailer will do to your 7. Both sides, and thats not the half of what I did to my cat.

Im sorry to troll here, just trying to help based on experience. Expect this car to to be 13 ft long, 6 ft wide, and the bell housing and maybe the oil pan to be 2" off the ground. Don't expect it to roll easily, don't expect to be able to air up the tires. There is only one way for you, a dropping tilt trailer, preferably with an electric winch. Soft straps through the lower A arms, not the frame cross member you will bend your frame. Investing now in the right equipment for a proper recovery will prevent expensive damage. This is a minimum. Dont try a UHaul car trailer. DONT. https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1411/0241035/16ftdeck-tandem-axle-trailer-10k/

Please don't. 12,000 Lbs car doesn't need that to be fun. And definitely not on a chassis of doubtful integrity. If you do have an Xflow, KEEP IT.

This is a great idea! Thanks. I think I would want to replace my Cat sw with a momentary style to use with this. This is the Blink-Stop module

Thanks foe the responses and suggestions! I have seen on vids that one of the vacuum operated have an adjustment screw for delay duration. Holden is interesting... they still offer the Lucas L516 torpedo side lamp that was fitted to early sevens. Another retro bit Im considering. I like the idea of mounting it through my clam's wing stay for added rise support. Ken sent me a shaft size. It would take up the entire inside width of the square wing stay tube. Still undecided and may not do it unless Im required to put a marker up there by my official scrutinizer. I honestly don't know how those small low profile bolts provide enough retention? I need replacements of those, btw.

This leads to the concept of wrapping the primaries, or header wrapping. I have always read this practice will or may "shorten header life". Can someone educate me on what is happening when they fail, or if this actually happens at all?

I know this as well. I carpeted my tunnel which helps, but still still very hot. I have been thinking of covering the foot wells with sheets of aluminum stood off about a quarter inch for airflow. This should block the radiant heat. Opinions?

get Beans paper catalog, its full of tips and wisdom

where? MD?

Yes I said it. Trafficator. Traffic + Indicator = Trafficator. They are those mechanical flags on the 50's European cars used to indicate your intention to divert your current directional course. They're a hit at auto shows. Although the Seven never got Trafficators, the early 60s cars often got the switches, along with various other Morris & Triumph parts. Indeed, the prince of darkness ruled the world in those days. So why am I bringing these up? Well for one thing, Caterham was still using Morris parts as late as my build, 1996. I'm still trying to find the origins of the hand brake...So why not add another charming Morris part? This led me to investigating why this particular indicator switch was used. I found out it has a built in timer! Vacuum operation and adjustable! Typical English, over engineering things! A red Lamiplate instrument panel is required, of course. So is this self-canceling switch better than the toggle lever switch that we invariably neglect to cancel?

Hello We need to know the PCD, or stud pattern. Distance between holes and other measurements, Width, diameter, etc. Also the offsets may be of interest. Late 70's could be Ford or BL Thanks

Vin, Thats a really nice package there! What can is that? I would love to 234 my 1600 but I would need deeper cut pistons. One thing I would ask is, are hardened valve seats necessary? If I were doing this job, I would not do valve seats and use a lead substitute instead. Have heard seats falling out. Is this something you are considering?

I am also wanting a 4>1 but for std 1.75" as I don't plan on increasing capacity. Ill increase compression b4 I do that. I think the Cat kits are 2"? I have a 2" muffler (no,I don't want to sell it, yet). If my 160 can works out I might. I could get a 4>1 2" kit but I thinks the tune would be all off for 1600. Good for 1700-2000cc. Tell me if Im wrong. 4>1 looks cooler coming out the side, LOL Ground clearing is always an issue and 2" cans are bigger.

I should probably cap the end of that tube... Put rubber caps on the 3nds of the motor mount bolts so passengers won't scrape their knees on them.

Back with an answer. Speed Star in Pasadena https://m.facebook.com/speedstar.htx/ I haven't given them any business yet but they certainly know thier way around Xflows.

Divorce car. Can't accurately value the asset or its disputed. Claim is made to Insurance, award paid and split, Insurance auctions off to COPART. That or it gets parked at the bottom of a lake. Am I half right?

Interested in an "open wheel" event in south Texas That narrows cars down to anything with "clamshell" and cycle fenders, MG Ts, Excaliburs, buggies, VW rails, etc. A fun crazy event excluding the more expensive exotic stuff.