IamScotticus

The roads must be beautiful there. Easy fun sevening.

Thanks!

Did anyone get the name of that tank? Ebay linky no worky. Its either this or a Concept Racing tank, which is nice but I don't see a USA seller. So probably from Merlin in UK. The one on Pegasus has a .75" bottom barb, too big for 5/8 hose.

Any idea what they weigh? My Caterham supplied Two Gates Minilite/Panasport types are 13x6 weighing 11.56 lbs. They do not have any race use only type markings. If your wheels are half the weight of mine, they may not be safe for street use.

The Seven is not for street use. Its a CYA thing. If the wheels grenade, they can say they told you so.

There are specifics to creating a proper S2. I agree some things should be done right. Like proper nose badge placement. Some things are personal preference, like painting the rear tyre carrier the body color like red or green. Fine if that's your thing. The casual observer won't know its not the Lotus way.

I had read that the Ford blocks were painted MG Maroon. Honestly, do what you like with marine grade materials for durability and MV8 is right about cushion density. No Body But You Will Know Any Different.

On scuttle tab fixing, I looked at a few of my books to try to see anything definitive. Series 1, no tabs. they were too cool for tabs, like all DeDions. But us live axle schmucks are stuck with tabs. Series 2, tabs on all cars but the scuttles are mostly fixed to the instrument panel hoop vertical tube (PHVT), about an inch above the chassis top tube (CTT). Series 3, same as 2 up to the early 80s where the tabs are riveted close to the top edge of the CTT, but not below it. Series 3 in the early 90s, and perhaps a long cockpit thing, tab rivets appeared inserted low, about an inch below the CTT, and more centered on the tab. It is possible that the final tab hole location may have been an executive decision by the Arch riveter with the drill at the time of build since locating a blind hole behind panel is difficult, Arch probably didn't pre drill that hole. Going forward, I also saw many examples of 7s that should have had tabs that were removed for esthetics. For any build, It would be perfectly acceptable to remove the tab and afix the scuttle edge to the PHVT. I've often pondered the possibility of cutting the form wire off and sliding the tab down between the skin and CTT. That would scratch TS out of the tube. Maybe if I smooth out the edges nicely. I will be taking my scuttle off soon, doing the rivnut mod (2nd time). I'll look for the holes then. Im pretty sure I have holes under my tabs because I remember drilling them out of my old scuttle and I have a few pictures of them. Interestingly, they are located more like early 80s but my chassis is a 95.

Vin, its a common mod for ease of access under the scuttle to drill out the rivets securing the front edge to the bulkhead, inserting rivnuts to the bulkhead, then attaching the scuttle with screws instead of rivets

What will you use for the engine and final drive?

Van, where are you?

Arch Motors UK but since you are building the chassis, its probably better to work with a metal man locally. Those who can form aircraft panels can do a 7. Motorcycle tank builders can make the nose and fenfers, assuming these will be metal.

Im not liking the old bullet type connections of the older cars (mine). Which connector are you using?

Do you have a plan for afixing the scutte tabs? Im in the same boat. Last fellow that re-skined mine didn't provide a tab hole location. I have to hunt for it. I will rivnut the fronts and make it all removable and might thread the rears, or sheet metal screw before drilling out large holes for rivnuts.

V, Are those pipes packed? where from? And that rocker cover?

The good: They kept it British The bad: This is a pattern that has been seen before. A small flexible business that had survived as such gets new enthusiastic people with big ideas to improve on something that wasn't broken. Even if Cat offered a basic budget 7 again, they would have to move many more cars to be profitable. The enthusiastic big idea people always believe this won't be a problem. If this doesn't pan out, there's no scaling back to the small British cottage industry. VT will pull everything out of UK. Cat let the fox in the hen house.

Do you have that remote shifter contraption?

will put up a puc later, but the car is lifted under the cross brace. I put the stand just behind it. It might be moved later or as needed for access to work around.

I don't know what stock springs are...

Yes, just fun blatting, nothing serious. I will require a softer ride for the roads here.

If it hasn't been said already, That was a wonderful article on this project in Low Flying a few months ago.

There are soooo many discussions on springs... Its just easier to ask again than to sort through it all. What springs are we running on the basic SPAX G303 Front and G305 rear non-height adjustable spring perch on a standard S3 Caterham Live axle (Ital) that will not be raced? I have old G305s on the rear now with blue springs that I can't ID yet, possibly Hyperco, but I will be looking for springs in a different color. Bilstein yellow would be nice. Where do these spring numbers get stamped? Thanx

I think I see the sale items in the For Sale link in the menu link

Can anyone say if the rear clam wing supports used by Lotus and early Cat improve wing stability at speed? They are still available at Cat parts.

I suppose I shouldn't show and not tell... https://allstarperformance.com/chassis-dollies-all10625/