IamScotticus

After attending few courses on throttle steer from YouTubiversity Im considering stepping down my sway bar from the 5/8(red bushes) it is now to a 1/2. Anyone want to swap out? I have the 90s uprated live axle suspension with balls on the bar.

Ship could still be moving but its signal delayed

I don't have a Zetec so I can't suggest an exact location. But Ive had a oil catch can/oil separator on my personal vehicle. These things can be condensation traps because they house or circulate hot air while a flow of cool air surrounds the can creating condensate in the can. I removed it when it was collecting more water than oil. Therefore I would try to avoid placing it in a direct air flow area like the frontal area. Further back like foot well mounted perhaps. Hope this helps.

For someone who has the chops to knock out a full car, thsts a fantastic experience and achievement. I believe a structurally superior chassis is much better than a 60-70 year old rust gamble. Steel is steel, no matter what name it has on it. For a guy without the skill sets to build, saving 5k/year for four years and buying a complete 7 is better for him. It may take four years to save the money, but a DIY project will likely drag on for ten. Then life often has other plans. Get into a driving 7 car as fast as possible and start enjoying driving a seven.

On the spaghetti models, I think the purple line is most likely.

@Alex-Ks1 Are you for a front mounted motor? mated to a transmission?

Thats probably a good thing

I think it's already here

Thess are awesome for radiator hose clamps

An elecrtic 7 would be stonking quick

Back to doors, Oxted Trimming has been the supplier to Cat of doors hoods, all the weather parts for decades. If anyone would know about a S2 pattern they should. The storefront goes by a different name: https://www.thundersport.co.uk/products/

This is golden

if all else fails throw a Kent 1600 in it. No ECU needed. Engine mounts be same location, transmission should bolt up. I had a Ztec, I gave it away. it probably went into someones Brinkin.

I have chosen to go the four port oil pump route on my dry sump build. This requires that the pressure line be tapped into the oil galley. Not scary at all, this has been a regular thing on BMC A engines for some time, in fact they come with an oil port (5/8-16) for such purposes. So why not follow suit on the Kent block? I had the option of machine thread or NPT fir the fitting. Asking around, the NPT is a common practice but could crack the block if overtightened. I decided on the 5/8-18 with a sealing washer. A quick internet search dug up a AN 10 to 5/8-16 adapter that looks like the item I need. I want to show it off here and ask if anyone knows rhe stamp marks to identify the manufacturer. I will try to mate this with a female hose end of the same manufacturer. AN is supposed to be universal and consistent, but good practice is to join with same make. Thanks to Mini Mania for this awesome part!

Scuttle and RMSCI was answered by Croc yesterday.

This is starting to sound like one of those things that the solution was really simple and just not suspect at the time. I give a lot of credibility to "worked earlier and not now". I totally believe it did and something changed in that time. These changes are usually hidden and not obvious. So, one of the usual suspects is battery. Are you sure the battery doesn't have any dead cells or there is a loose or corroded connection? Suspect #2, are all the fuzes good? The the source for help could be a tuner that does Mustangs, Focus, etc. they are familiar with OE ECUs and hacking them or replacing with an aftermarket ECU. They may not have your engine but they have the knowledge.

@BruceBe Bruce, I just read your 2 yo post about Cat prepping the cars with windscreen and weather for shipping. You stated that getting the rubber strip requires heating. This is new info to me and I can tell you when I tried to attatch my new screen to a new(old new stock) scuttle with new rubber, the screen bottom touches the scuttle and I couldn't compress the rubber low enough to align up to the stanchion screws. I opted to leave the rubbed off. I did notice that my first screen, an older lotus, had rounder lower edge arch and there was a half inch gap allowing room for the rubber. I bought a new screen to have that blue tint safety glass, but its bottom edge is much flatter. Could you describe the heating process please? Or am I better off putting the new glass in the old frame? I could just mount higher if I attach directly to the scuttle, but Im wanting to use those frame brackets that fix the height. Thanks, Scott

Can a Ford service tech do a flash and reset?

Any vouchers for Redline MTL?

My advice is loosen the six window frame screws to relieve any tension or just plan on removing the frame off the stanchions. Stanchions attached to the frame scratch stuff. I know.

I don't want to speak for Mintoft, but in a message to me he says hes retiring and wanting his son to take lead at RL. I see others are not hearing from him. Long deserved retirement.

Heres mine. with obligatory house slippers. Note on my doors, thw rear closure popper is lower. I don't know exactly when these were the spec, but it could be mod 80s. I bought them from a fellow in Longview WA in 2006, I think.

The top picture is of the door insides. Interesting question, when did Caterham stop using bullet fasteners? If they ever did? These doors use a twist bullet at the door back where as later Caterham use a short strap with a popper snap on the inside of the wheel arch.

Someone will eventually hit a foot or knee on the scuttle edge exiting and bend it. That is an expensive and disheartening occurrence . Putting a rivnut there in the chassis is one of my goals too, but perfectly locating the drill hole on the scuttle edge in front of the chassis hole is difficult because its hidden. The only thing I have found to help solve this are these On Amazon they can be found under "Dowel and Tenon Center Transfer Plugs" but they are made for sheet metal applications in smaller size, but getting harder to find