IamScotticus

If Bob has a CAD file, he might be able to make them again in a laser printer cheaper than old CNC, and sell for $80.

Yea new skin and inspection between the skin and all chassis tubes for corrosion is often a ten year requirement to keep these buggars running and pretty. must clean out the "grot trap", the space between the foot well and outter skin.

This is really cool. Don't get the meaning of the eye...it looks kinda Mason-ish

Thanks for making me buy another tool! lol

Here? https://www.retroford.co.uk/product-category/drivetrain-and-clutch/hydraulic-clutch-components-and-release-bearings/

Very nice. Did you do the finishing work?

Delete

a pressure regulator as close to the carbs as possible is good insurance against whatever might cause a fluctuation. I got a thing from Pierce Manifold that is an inline regulator of sorts but not for pressure, for surges to create a smooth flow into the bowls. I show it off on my build thread.

AM= Arch Motors 98= year of manufacture J2= Jig number 4452= production number. I don't know if that is an annual production nbr or total count for the particular jig. 4k is big for a production within a year, Cat averages around 500 a year. I suspect its a running count for the jig. the cool thing about Arch is, with that Jig #, they can supply you perfectly fitting body panels and tube sections. Even the rivet holes will line up.

have you looked at Tracsport for bells? might want to email steve there. his website is pretty but doesn't show half of what he has. or he doesn't sell all he used to. I suspect he has no personal webmaster involvement in his site. He supplied all the Escort and Ital remans for Caterham in the 90s, maybe earlier.

so... A T9 to 1600 adaptiopn uses: 1600 Kent: flywheel, pilot, clutch cover, release bearing & arm 2000 Pinto: 190/7.5" 1x23 clutch disc (reduced diamter from 8.5") bellhousing (some grinding to cleaar the starter may be necessary) T9 box with (a)reduced diamter shaft cover for release bearing)(Burton), (b) if box is the longer shaft V6, a 1" spacer between the box and bell. Remember (1) the engine threads are Imperial and the bellhousing are metric and you do use both. (2) use special tacky clutch disc grease on the splines. PM me i have a few packs. (3) have the flywheel surfaced, balanced and checked for runout Notice I don't use car model names...it just adds to the confusion.

Starter ring gear!

Ive been putting together the parts for an evetual T-9 conversion to my Xflow. This is the list of stuff I know so far. Not sure I agree with Burton on the "standard Escort clutch". On parts, standard 1600 Kent clutch disc is 190mm 7/8" x 20. A T9 was never fitted to Kent 1600 in a Ford road car, but on 2ltr and larger engines using larger clutches. To adapt the T9 to work with the Kent it only requires two or three things: (1) A 1" spacer between the case and the bell IF the T9 uses the longer input shaft (1x23), and a small bit of the shaft length may need removal. (2) A reduced diamter input shaft sleeve the release bearing slides on so std Escort bearings can be used (with a std Kent pressure plate). (3) A special 190mm 1x23 PPlate, which is an oddity because the 1"x23 discs were larger in diameter for the 2ltr Pintos. Im not sure what vehicles used a 190mm 1x23 but I've only heard of one. Thank Burton for keeping them in stock. Input shaft tips are same dia so pilot/spigot bearing is common to both. I believe I have seen a CRB spacer on Burton for the takeup issues. Here is a more typical CC Vibration causes, im only sugessing here... Trans & engine mounts loose, warped flywheel, chatter/ slipping from contaminated flywheel surface, uneven bellhousing bolt torque, prop shaft U joints bad. I hope Im helpful here.

Just out of curiosity, so I can get schooled on it.. The front bearing change Cat did, replacing the Spitfire parts, 3 burning questions: 1, are those sealed bearings and what cars are they used on? 2, can the upgrade bearings be pressed into Spitfire hubs? 3, Is the felt dust seal used?

I've been wondering about that pump. Spewing fuel all in the boot? Thats just a good cleaning 😝

an excellent guide on the kents is Jake Lamonts book available at Pegasus https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1639 anyone with a Xflow should have it.

ethanol, wouldn't an additive like stabil or enzyte take care of that and be better for the carbs? yes, the Facet box pumps are noisy and mounted to the back seat panel you feel it in your back. nut they can be drawn through in line with another pump.

Thanks Vin Heres mine I don't have an adjuster on the cylinder, its up top and manually adjusted with a square key. I also confirmed this to be A Marina, not an Ital, although Cat says its an Ital. The hub locating key is 3/16", not 1/4"square. Where some have gotten into trouble on these is fitting Ital hubs on Marina shafts giving the Ital hub 1/16" of space to move in. Fortunate to not have this issue. If buying shafts from MOSS or Rimmer Bros one must check this.

Good stuff

There's nothing wrong with the standard Ford cam actuated, its self regulated. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=31616 Like MV8 said, use a primer like this one, https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=82 My car even ran on this electric unit. But Im considering running the mechanical because its quiet compared to the electric. I will keep the electric in line as a primer.

Do you need any pressure proportioning devices to prevent locking?

can anyone say what cylinder size came on the live axles?

Good spare for Ital/Marina live axle 7s https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/tr7-and-tr8-forum.3/does-anybody-want-a-free-tr7-23-000-mile-4.1957943/

tyre tread wear indicates over inflated. what pressures do you use?

Some 60s Triumph cars had inboard discs. The diff cases aren't large and there are Quaife ATBs available for them. Still alot af parts support for old British Leyland group companies.