IamScotticus

Scuttle and RMSCI was answered by Croc yesterday.

This is starting to sound like one of those things that the solution was really simple and just not suspect at the time. I give a lot of credibility to "worked earlier and not now". I totally believe it did and something changed in that time. These changes are usually hidden and not obvious. So, one of the usual suspects is battery. Are you sure the battery doesn't have any dead cells or there is a loose or corroded connection? Suspect #2, are all the fuzes good? The the source for help could be a tuner that does Mustangs, Focus, etc. they are familiar with OE ECUs and hacking them or replacing with an aftermarket ECU. They may not have your engine but they have the knowledge.

@BruceBe Bruce, I just read your 2 yo post about Cat prepping the cars with windscreen and weather for shipping. You stated that getting the rubber strip requires heating. This is new info to me and I can tell you when I tried to attatch my new screen to a new(old new stock) scuttle with new rubber, the screen bottom touches the scuttle and I couldn't compress the rubber low enough to align up to the stanchion screws. I opted to leave the rubbed off. I did notice that my first screen, an older lotus, had rounder lower edge arch and there was a half inch gap allowing room for the rubber. I bought a new screen to have that blue tint safety glass, but its bottom edge is much flatter. Could you describe the heating process please? Or am I better off putting the new glass in the old frame? I could just mount higher if I attach directly to the scuttle, but Im wanting to use those frame brackets that fix the height. Thanks, Scott

Can a Ford service tech do a flash and reset?

Any vouchers for Redline MTL?

My advice is loosen the six window frame screws to relieve any tension or just plan on removing the frame off the stanchions. Stanchions attached to the frame scratch stuff. I know.

I don't want to speak for Mintoft, but in a message to me he says hes retiring and wanting his son to take lead at RL. I see others are not hearing from him. Long deserved retirement.

Heres mine. with obligatory house slippers. Note on my doors, thw rear closure popper is lower. I don't know exactly when these were the spec, but it could be mod 80s. I bought them from a fellow in Longview WA in 2006, I think.

The top picture is of the door insides. Interesting question, when did Caterham stop using bullet fasteners? If they ever did? These doors use a twist bullet at the door back where as later Caterham use a short strap with a popper snap on the inside of the wheel arch.

Someone will eventually hit a foot or knee on the scuttle edge exiting and bend it. That is an expensive and disheartening occurrence . Putting a rivnut there in the chassis is one of my goals too, but perfectly locating the drill hole on the scuttle edge in front of the chassis hole is difficult because its hidden. The only thing I have found to help solve this are these On Amazon they can be found under "Dowel and Tenon Center Transfer Plugs" but they are made for sheet metal applications in smaller size, but getting harder to find

Dwight, if you have an FIA, the plate you have will be much more substantial and be bolted down by more than one bolt. The road bars are much simpler with single bolt fastening. Consider removing you bar entirely and posting pic of the entire mount area.

fof next year

consider removingthe paint from the headsas close to the edges as possible with a thinning agent. then drilling wirh the painted edges still soft from the thinner. when the rivet head comes loose the paint will have a soft edge break and lay down to cure.

The thread is 1/2-20 , depth is 3/8. The pic isn't my car, but same radiator. there are identical plugs at the top and bottom tanks. I am hoping to find a plug from a damaged donor core. brass preferred.

Hello, I need this: For a COVRAD S7350, common Caterham 90s equipment. The COVRAD company is defunct.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/761527011/05mm-25mm-round-hole-punch-leather-hole?click_key=99999274c1ea6f85fc8c9df7885bda9ac61f8cc6%3A761527011&click_sum=12e1e3a9&ref=internal_similar_listing_bot-1

Is there a leather hole punch the head diameter? if so, you could serrate the cutting edge and spin it around the head for a clean paint cut

If the rivets aren't pull through, (they will be hollow in the middle) then drilling through the metal shank, or anvil, is asking for trouble. Otherwise, scribe around the head and let it fall.

Sorry to be the link grouch here but theres something fishy going on. When I clicked on that tool link, I put the scraper in my shopping cart only. An hour later, or less, I got this text: Of course being well aware of phishing schemes a plenty, I didn't click on that link. I called Amazon CS who verified no message was sent to me and no items were in my cart. I suggest that anyone wanting to buy items, go through your account and login, don't do it through a link, and don't trust any alarming messages. Call and verify. Amazon CS is 1800 388 5512

Ok, Graham, you just made me buy another tool

Yust yearned yabout yhist. Yannybody yuse yhis? https://www.classicbritishspares.com/blogs/news/yamabond-gasket-sealer I already know about Hylomar Blue, and cured a test strip. True, like Yamabond, Hylomar doesn't harden. But I really didn't like how messy it remained. It has the consistency of half dried bubble gum, like the one you stepped on in the parking lot. I got the impression that removing Hylomar would be a pain. Yamabond appears to be a cleaner removal. Can anyone vouch for this?

Sweet!

Im 90% sure Dwight has a metric S3 DeDion.

Downdraught power!

Personally, on my car, the more stuff I can remove, the better it gets.