IamScotticus

...

262 miles from Dallas to Houston Tx. Had to make about four stops to let a rain shower stay ahead of us. Only failure Ive had was the clutch cable slackening, which isn't really a failure but I wasn't prepared to adjust it so it was my failure. Not on a long trip then.

Numerical naming is much simpler than having numerous meetings, anguish and gnashing of teeth, over clever names. And the legal council.

Its like RatRod, but kept a little nicer. What's with the shiny faux truck bed? get some rust on there

I've always heard the mid-90s was a bad period for the powder coating. Im just trusting that. Perhaps you are on to something?

Thanks. I wanted to add that the edges of the PC would need to be sanded down to a fine edge. If the whole PC area is spotty, then just remove it. PC, if applied well, should have an airtight bond with the surface but a rough edge can compromise that. So many reasons why I think PC is overrated for chassis coating. The only benefit is the production side. PC produces an acceptable coating with less prep, labor and time. In volume, cost. But the end consumer doesn't always get the better deal. Having said all that, yes PC can be done well if prep and application are done to a high standard with a zinc base layer, etc. But the cost benefit is gone.

Thanks, I have another option. Yes, I will be using nylon bolts in the future.

What battery did you get? Do you use a regulator or something for power management? I don't imagine that connecting a Lithium battery directly to an alternator is acceptable these days.

In better days

On the battery, My current bracket is lower right side where access is limited bt the top brace and webbers. I wish to fab a Passenger foot well extension, for anyone brave enough to ride. This would really limit battery access. So, my plan is to choose a flat lithium battery to lay atop the firewall shelf. I don't have the heater box there so plenty of room. Or I suppose it could be in a box on the end of the foot well I DO have good news! I stacked my BH, ali spacer & T9 and measures it all to a 23" length from BH to mount bolt. My measurements tonight confirmed that the transmission bracket location is in perfect position. When I bought a bunch of parts in a garage raid I got an extra transmission mount bracket for an Escort box. I can only assume the previous builder had removed it after upgrading transmissions. Would it be advisable to remove my Escort bracket to assist in the fitment of the T9?

throw on the clams and call it fixed

Race damage? That is far more honorable than the reality. I had gotten the car ready for DOT safety inspection. I hadn't renewed the registration so I chose to trailer than drive. My spotter help didn't show. I had loaded the car on a UHaul car trailer before, so, I assumed I could do it again. Back then, the car was sans engine, muff, and me. It rode higher. So, intrepid me gunned the car up the ramps and Bang! Off went the muff, rear wing, and the inner tire guides peeled skin back a few inches on both sides as I wedged between them. The shame 😔

This is my plan as well, I have much more work to do than that! Im no paint expert, but my opinion about PC on a chassis or suspension that is prone to constant impact is that a coating which is easily spot repaired is better than any PC. PC ia fine for outdoor furniture, and perhaps the roll bar, but for a chassis that is being chipped at, flexed and occasionally modified, I would rather have removable and replaceable paint. There's hard and soft drying paints. Lotus used to use oven enamel. The problem with PC is once its chipped and water gets in, it can continue to penetrate under the "shell" and spread. If an area of PC is good and not a rock target, I think one could paint over it as long as it isn't compromised by a hole drilling or mod. Regardless, Rustoleum Aircraft Remover is your friend.

Great topic and Ive been wondering what is the perfect low profile scissor jack? A Mini? It would be more helpful to list the details of your build as all the parts have their specific fitting tools and commonly needed tools. For example, if you are cable clutch, they break, have a spare and essential tools. The other day I realized why my Cat was so hard to push. I needed a 1/4" wrench to adjust my rear drum shoes. I had to go to a lot of trouble to find one in a shop where I was but I had plenty at home. For my build, a Xflow live axle. it would be spark plugs & socket 3/8 bent handle swivel head ratchet and 6" extension tools for tightening suspension, adjustment of carburetors, tightening of hose clamps, servicing alternator tension & belt, clutch cable and tire change. Another thing is to have a plan B for a windscreen breaking. An assortment of high strength zip-ties to tie up things that break loose. This is not reliable boring transportation.

Tracsport / SP Components has a decent variety of Ali BHs to suit many needs. One could build a all alloy T-9. Steve has been in the business a long time. He was the supplier of T2 boxes and Ital axles to Cat in the 90s.

Really? I know this isn't anything new for 7 damage, but the circumstances were totally shameful. I am thinking I should remove the inner panel, aneal, and compress the extrusions with a bolt, nut and two washers. Then fit new size rivnuts. Another mod Im considering is fabing an access panel for the grot trap. This, cleaning up 8 years of rust, lower end seals and a shine is all she really needs. I intend to throw on a T-9 as well. I was very excited to hear about the cable-less speedo sending options available. Should I stick with VDO?

I wish I had a dollar for every cell phone snapping pics! One of the things one has to be prepared for is the amount of attention you get. I almost got to the point of irritability. When I get going again, I will make a bumper sticker,"WARNING Ask you doctor if you're healthy enough for Lotus 7" and print out leaflets with a picture and description, and John Donahue's phone number. 😁

Hello. I think I should contribute here, wanted or not, my limping recovery. Firstly I am taking any advice as how to go about repairing the extruded holes that once held rivnuts. Thanks.

This, just in from SETI, proof we are not alone!

Any thoughts of replacing sticky loom tape with something less sticky? High temp split conduit tubing? Unless you prefer sticky?

Is there an Arch chassis number stamped on either of the upper shock mounts?

I have a set of those and 305 EY rears I bought in a garage raid. Well used, of course. And G775s on my 96 Cat and Spax on the rear. All well used rusty and grimey. The rears did come with blue Hyperos.

Vin, assuming you have the Triumph trunnions, do you know how deep to screw the uprights in to them? or how many turns back out from bottom? Scott

I did it to myself. I used a UHaul when I picked it up from seller without an engine exhaust & transmission, or me in it therefore it rode much higher and cleared. So next time I needed to trailer it, it was all built up and I assumed I could do it again. Wrong.

My first experience in a seven was in the late 80s i think working at an inspection station in Dallas. Peter Fawcett's S4 came in driven by his son. I failed it for a turn signal but I also wanted to see it again. No ulterior motive.. I got a conversation going and Mr. Fawcett kindly invited me over to see his Lotus collection. That sealed the deal.