7Westfield

Some misc bits I have...1/2 BSP probably from a Titan FF over the years the center one would screw into a Titan side mount pump, using the washer to seal titan side mount pumps use 1/2 BSP, I would assume the front ones are the same if that blue fitting you have measures .81 thread OD, non tapered, it's 1/2 BSP personally, I'd go aeroquip, just because you can get it everywhere Pegasus has some fittings/adapters this may help--- https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00098 is this the car I've seen at Blackhawk?

I use the headless bolt method whenever possible. It takes the weight of the gearbox, so that you can deal with getting the shaft in without dealing with the load. You can move the box a fair amount on those studs. Definitely need to be able to rotate the shaft. don't forget the dab of grease in the pilot bearing

What size is your steel line? 5/16? A couple of these and an Aeroquip braided line might be the thing https://www.ebay.com/itm/154095809669?hash=item23e0d37485:g:~O0AAOSwmNFfdDnP take the ones you have to NAPA and ask if they can extend with crimped sleeves?

got a NAPA store near you? They might be able to make a new one, or tell you who can.

Russ will there be trailer parking? weather will determine if I drive or haul... Charlie

I had cable with my T-3. I left it loose, basically just the weight of the pedal when at rest it may also depend on pedal height you want

I have a spare it's the SKF from Burton ECB113 I'm not going to use it--went hydraulic $25 shipped? looks like SKF number is VKC 2144

did you use the VDO sender?

the spare I have (new) doesn't have that slop it's out, and they're cheap.......

I left the gear in place, with a new seal. I'll need it whenever I get around to the Racetech Folk on the Westfield forum say to just use a freeze plug, and silicone it in, if deleting the gear I didn't use one of the cheap round fleabay units because they are 85mm, and the hole in the dash is 80mm, which suits the racetech

I opened up one that I have, and it looks like there's a bit of grease in there, but it would take a pretty small needle to get more in. That is the "standard" unit on MGB's, Triumphs, etc, so maybe Moss Motors can help you. Never seen a reference to alternate gears for T9, usually you have the speedo regeared to suit the cable revs per mile. I got a price to redo my Smith's recently, $250-300. For that money, I'll just use a Racetech unit with electric sender There are cheap GPS speedos on fleabay

Thanks I've seen them, just never knew the name

what is a Thackery washer, and where do I get them?

maybe a US only "nanny state" thing?

My xr4ti shop manual says the forward one is reverse light switch, rear one is neutral safety switch BUT I wonder if that's right--other way round makes more sense my box -from a merkur- does have a divot in the shift rod at the bottom of the front one, and the hole is threaded

if you end up drilling them, use a left hand bit you might get lucky and have them unscrew inside that cam cover looks really bad

ZDDP goes in the oil if they say "tank", they're refering to a dry sump oil tank this may help https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/what-is-zddp-benefits-of-zinc-in-oil/30870

No direct knowledge, but I suspect the Fit motor is ok without ZDDP after all, it's a modern street engine, and AFAIK overhead cams don't need it

FF now has 2 engine options, xflow and Honda Fit, hence change to current name of Formula F. Nobody runs the "cortina" engine anymore, it's all the "uprated" version. 711 block Very simply put, balance and blueprint is about all you can do, but it's an art form. Power of 115+ hp common, power falls off over about 6700 rpm The Fit motor runs basically stock, with a restrictor in the intake to tone it down It's only 1500cc, but I've heard numbers up to about 140hp if you lose the restrictor and they just don't break amazing what 50 years of engineering progress will do

Every formula ford engine builder I've dealt with wanted ZDDP oil. Current guy likes Penn Grade 15-40 syn blend. So, that goes in the FF, the xflow Westfield, and the tow vehicle--simplifies inventory Charlie

What's it supposed to fit? Those primaries look too long for a "7", seem to be more for a sedan, like a cortina --they look to go more "back" than "out the side" Better pix?

back to burton BH3

what are you going to use for bellhousing? --merkur does not fit crossflow

Note that if you use the Burton parts, the release bearing they sell for cable operation is 34mm ID. The Merkur boxes may be the only ones with 36mm snoots. They sell a 34mm replacement, I went with their concentric hydraulic setup nice

take the spring off your shock, and check the top of the shock body itself. If it looks like a cap unscrews, they may be rebuildable you just might find those bushings at the hardware store, if you mean the ones on the sides of the lever the ball is a whole 'nuther story but it does look Ford I got a ball from Dave Bean several years ago that fixed my type 3 box