7Westfield

first, you need to know if your shocks are rebuildable at all. Can't tell from the pics. Do they have a top that can be removed, or just a welded cap? I checked into it a few years back, mine were not serviceable, but new ones weren't much more than rebuild would have been. I called Spax on Monday, had them Thursday. I believe Spax has a deal plan for the Westfield club, you'd think they do Cat too.

Re. upper arms the best way I've found to remove a ball joint/tie rod end is to whack it with a dead blow hammer. in your pic above, you want to hit it down on the end of the upright what you'll do is compress the sides of the tapered hole just a bit, and it will squirt the stud out. don't worry about distorting the hole, the stud being inside will prevent that leave the nut on, in case you miss I'm assuming the lower arms have want they call a silentbloc or metalastic bushing in them. This is an inner and outer steel sleeve with rubber molded between them. Bolt thru center and outside presses into end of arm. For the bolts stuck in the bushing, your only choice may be to put a big bar on the bolt, and just rip the rubber center out. For replacements, call Eileen @ GMT Racing, she can send you a list of the sizes they stock -about 20 -in your neighborhood, and good folks

mine met up with a hole saw... that's not the bearing, it's the front part of a 2 piece shaft, identifies it as later production

My experience with header wrap............ When I bought my pre-lit the first time, it was hot in the footwell, so I wrapped the header. When I bought it back 5 years ago, the wrap was still there. 25 years It was getting crunchy, so I peeled it off in order to measure for building a new one, since primaries are very small. SUPRISE it's as good as new, except that it's now got a green hue to it. It's chrome plated, must have been a reaction between wrap and plating I always heard wrapping would cause a header to rust out, but not this one. Maybe the plating saved it, maybe not. It's also pretty thick gauge tube. I'll wrap the new one as well, really helps with foot temps, and paint with Eastwood paint

I'm assuming you're rebuilding an "uprated" engine--711M block, but if it happens to be an old "cortina" block, I have a set of Hepolite 10.5 compression .040 over pistons that need a new home Charlie

all of them I've seen were DIY

I just made a mount for my engine stand. A piece of tube to fit stand with a plate welded on end, drilled to bolt on side of block. Put it on left side mount, and you can spin the motor and get to everything. Using the shipping stands seems like a real PITA, especially for getting at the pan gasket. Charlie

North West Propshafts is the place !!! I emailed them and they said type 9 sure, which flange is on your "english" axle? I didn't know it was multiple choice, but they sent me a sheet with possibilities. Measured it up and got it figured out. All they needed was: type 9 which rear flange length from trans seal to front of diff flange When I ordered it, I asked about delivery time, and the guy said "they'll probably build it tonight" So, in about 5 days I got a shaft, from folks who really know how

Anyone got a recommendation for a supplier? Need to connect a type 9 box to an English axle I know if I go to my local shop, their eyes will just glaze over when I say "English axle" NWpropshafts seems to be the place, if you're on that side of the pond. Charlie

mine measures about 3" are there different heights, as well? my front air cleaner is 1/2-3/4" above the top frame rail the Burton pic looks like mine you could also check with pierce manifolds--on the west coast--they are weber folks Charlie

forgot to mention...the BH3 takes a Lucas bolt pattern starter, not the "pinto" style

Vin I've never seen a pinto 4 speed, but I have bolted a type 9 to a pinto bellhousing, so I assume they're similar. Pinto bellhousings are weird-they rotate the box a few degrees, but it goes together Burton has a concentric setup I am going to use-- APC5 with bellhousing BH3

OK MY BAD.....I should know better than to post without looking the Saab thing is in a drawer, altho it would work fine it was plan A here's a pic of what's actually going on I just welded a bung onto the original 90 degree pipe that's the fan control switch and a shot of where the temp gauge goes in under the stat--fitting for air bleed on top it's all apart for conversion to 5 speed

Nope...I have the fan switch in the lower hose with the Saab thing, gauge bulb is in the head under the stat, and an air bleed tapped into the top of stat housing Your intake manifold is different than mine, maybe use the fitting meant for heater line as fill point, and leave gauge as is? I wouldn't like the gauge as you have it, much better info if it's on the "hot" side of the circuit. Maybe put that adapter I mentioned in the upper hose where you now fill, and put the temp gauge there? Then you can fill thru pump. My car is a 85, sure different from yours. You have a diagonal brace under the carbs, mine is on left side. My steering column is farther outboard than yours -goes between clutch and brake pedals- and the header is really close to the block, inboard of the diagonal. As to rad location, mine came with it against that crossmember and a real crappy pusher fan. Now it's forward just enough to slip a sucker fan between it and frame. The important thing is ducting in front, making sure all the air HAS to go thru rad.

Yes, water pump fitting becomes the fill point, and air bleeds back out of the top of thermo housing to tank. Be sure to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the stat to let air by when filling. If you put the fill line to the water pump, what are you going to do with your gauge fitting? On mine, I moved the gauge to the left side of the head, under the stat. There is a 1/8 pipe thread hole there, and I enlarged it to 1/4 to take my sender, but you can't do that on all engines due to casting variations. Burton also has the water outlet like the one with the red hoses. If you use that housing, just put a solid cap on it, and the "overflow" fitting becomes your air return line.

I used something similar to this on mine to put the temp sensor in the lower hose. I think it was an old Saab part, but you get the idea. Then I just have an air bleed from top of water outlet to tank. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/AutoMeter-2283-Water-Temperature-Radiator-Hose-Adapter,113688.html

Burton also has a billet unit you could tap into the top of. Check with them as to hose diameters, that might influence your choice. https://www.burtonpower.com/thermostat-housing-alloy-billet-x-flow-rwd-fp610.html

That's a strange looking critter...I'm guessing it's aftermarket of some kind. Nothing about it looks "Ford" to me. The gasket rails are not stamped the way ford did it, and I've never seen one with that slant bottom. That said, I'm just looking for a backup--mine drags bottom every now and then, so if you want to part with it at a reasonable price, let me know Charlie

have discovered there are multiple depths...I need the 7 inch thx

Anyone got a stock rear sump pan for a Kent they want to let go? Charlie

got one 6 months ago from Moss. can't find record, but I think it was 165-150 big Healey

bad headlight switch?

I'm with Dave on this, given that it stays pointed wherever you leave the steering. Jack it up, disconnect the tie rods, and move everything separately. I think you'll find a tie rod end or ball joint seizing up. If the steering is still hard to turn when apart, the rack is tight

What type of speedo do you have? When I bought my Westfield (the first time) the speedo read very high. It's a Smith's mech unit, like MGB. Dave Bean put me onto a shop on the west coast --maybe Palo Alto Speedo-- they asked how many turns the cable did in a given distance, and re-geared the unit to suit So, if this service is still available, get the tires you want, and match the speedo to them also, back in "the day", a shop could build you a correction gearbox that went in the cable

Reach out to member BobbiW She and hubby built a very nice one