7Westfield

you DEFININETLY need the pliers

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/sheetholder.php?clickkey=6015

with a "regular" crossflow, I got mine behind the carbs --pre lit westfield LHD

I've always found MM very helpful. As opposed to Victoria British, who were real idiots

Looks like fun YEARS ago, I put a 13b in a Lotus 51, made one hell of an autocrosser Don't run it without figuring out the oil situation, or at least dumping some in the tank for insurance. I left the stock mech system on mine, never had a problem, it just uses crankcase oil.

It looks like a Herald/GT6 upright. Everyone thinks they are the same as Spitfire, but they're not. According to Moss, the same lower trunion serves both. So, a pair of trunions 661-445 and 661-455, and 2 bushing kits 661-485 should fix you up

I took one out of my Westfield over the winter, went hydraulic, but it's only about 48" long..... Burton has several lengths available I think this one is QCC1010 I've not seen bike stuff nearly big enough for clutch---throttle, all the time

There was a test of oil filters on an episode of Engine Masters if you can find it. They were using a V8 on the dyno to test different brands of filter for flow rates. Testing for GPM I don't remember any of the numbers, but I'm sure ours are a lot lower A friend who builds them (FF) says he's never seen a number

They started making these again several (10-12?) years ago. They are a better unit now. Dimensionally the same, but some casting upgrades like stronger bellhousing ears and so forth. Also uses the 2 liter thrust washer, which is a full circle setup instead of the original half circle.

If you go with new parts for dry sump, budget more like $2500. I did my pre-lit Westfield this winter, but I had used parts on hand, basically all expense was for hoses and fittings. You will only gain an inch or so clearance, because the bottom of the bellhousing still hangs down there, but the filter moves as well.

no idea

according to the Burton catalog: "english" axle was in anglias cortina mk1/2 escort mk1/2 base model capris "atlas" axle was in capris and cortina 3/4/5 on an english axle, the gears come out the front it's a "pumpkin", like a ford 9 inch atlas has a cover on the back, like a chevy

that's my guess sure enough -see you in June? I'll be maintaining a Titan

No data, but I remember rumor's back in the day that clams made the front end light at racing speeds.

Some misc bits I have...1/2 BSP probably from a Titan FF over the years the center one would screw into a Titan side mount pump, using the washer to seal titan side mount pumps use 1/2 BSP, I would assume the front ones are the same if that blue fitting you have measures .81 thread OD, non tapered, it's 1/2 BSP personally, I'd go aeroquip, just because you can get it everywhere Pegasus has some fittings/adapters this may help--- https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/document.asp?DocID=TECH00098 is this the car I've seen at Blackhawk?

I use the headless bolt method whenever possible. It takes the weight of the gearbox, so that you can deal with getting the shaft in without dealing with the load. You can move the box a fair amount on those studs. Definitely need to be able to rotate the shaft. don't forget the dab of grease in the pilot bearing

What size is your steel line? 5/16? A couple of these and an Aeroquip braided line might be the thing https://www.ebay.com/itm/154095809669?hash=item23e0d37485:g:~O0AAOSwmNFfdDnP take the ones you have to NAPA and ask if they can extend with crimped sleeves?

got a NAPA store near you? They might be able to make a new one, or tell you who can.

Russ will there be trailer parking? weather will determine if I drive or haul... Charlie

I had cable with my T-3. I left it loose, basically just the weight of the pedal when at rest it may also depend on pedal height you want

I have a spare it's the SKF from Burton ECB113 I'm not going to use it--went hydraulic $25 shipped? looks like SKF number is VKC 2144

did you use the VDO sender?

the spare I have (new) doesn't have that slop it's out, and they're cheap.......

I left the gear in place, with a new seal. I'll need it whenever I get around to the Racetech Folk on the Westfield forum say to just use a freeze plug, and silicone it in, if deleting the gear I didn't use one of the cheap round fleabay units because they are 85mm, and the hole in the dash is 80mm, which suits the racetech

I opened up one that I have, and it looks like there's a bit of grease in there, but it would take a pretty small needle to get more in. That is the "standard" unit on MGB's, Triumphs, etc, so maybe Moss Motors can help you. Never seen a reference to alternate gears for T9, usually you have the speedo regeared to suit the cable revs per mile. I got a price to redo my Smith's recently, $250-300. For that money, I'll just use a Racetech unit with electric sender There are cheap GPS speedos on fleabay