7Westfield

English axle is from Fords--- Cortina 1/2 Escort 1/2 the gear set comes out the front of the diff-like a Ford 9" 4x4.25"

Are these a "metalastic" bushing? If so, GMT Racing has several sizes on hand Dave Bean also has a few

it looks rusty, just like the trucks

those red lines have been around for years, generally fine, but nothing wrong with changing it what diameter is the cylinder they swapped out?

you might look into one of the blankets welders use to protect nearby stuff don't know what's available as to sizes etc I don't know how hot the muffler gets, but I do know you don't want to find out the hard way

I put a trailer light on my roll bar one of those LED strips about 1" x 10" also wired it thru a flasher unit (Back-off?) that flashes 4-5 times at first, then goes solid on edit something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/173617237296?itmmeta=01HZCMVCYFH78HYM9K8YPZ92X3&hash=item286c64cd30:g:aUsAAOSwQ6lmAn1f&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8E9NnwMk%2FR5ToOVcqAO1300gI0oK97pVfFbFUMzxs%2F83zZ0zFz964EqpWc%2Bi%2B%2FPBHKOfWgiIy2Tt1eNFtz%2FQpFjmiONNosafNWfrgcc1ZYAJMITTI08NNy%2FsnChFzFnvA2OvIpeJNL936d3pdnvFi65O9puhr0J68%2Bxu4WtRntmC0zKqqMM7PAAamvKSvBQ%2BZSpfCky1h8SWavsfXpiCiEoAlWgjAiqCQF6xCJxYHXprJTjktUo9Ey50W7HkX0eFqXiTR3%2BszfuvsotZq230pw0%2FzmnpSn3MA%2BGEK8rf4LSSCycVocyuI72bggIZa2se8w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMtM_tlPtj

do you see bubbles coming up in the swirl pot? could indicate a blown head gasket, letting hot gas into water system. might be worth pressure testing the system you can get loaner testers at many parts stores oil looks ok? if it's a milkshake, it's a head gasket if you pressure test it, and it loses pressure, be sure to pull the plugs and spin it over before starting to prevent hydro lock if that's the only fan, next to the oil cooler, it's doing nothing for you need a better one, mounted on back of radiator, pulling air thru

I dug out the stock pulley I took off my 1600---it's 4.75 OD I'm running the smaller one from Burton

have you removed the thermostat / water outlet housing? not likely, but possible someone put some sort of restrictor/stat in there, and it's gone wonky where is your temp bulb mounted? under the water outlet?

try a chunk of tubing, like fuel hose

what is the diameter of your pump shaft? 1/2" or 5/8" older engines like yours were 1/2, and pumps are pretty hard to find I had a 1/2" on my 1600 when I got it pumps from rockauto ( '71 pinto 1600) are 5/8, but I was able to ream the center hole on my pulley and use it

remove the lower hose, and fill the engine thru the upper hose if it doesn't flow right thru, you have a clogged block the pumps are driven faster than engine speed to account for traffic, etc designed so that the fan/rad is adequate in fact, on a formula ford, we seriously UNDERDRIVE the pump to save power FF's have a heating problem at idle, but a street engine shouldn't

I've had a water pump impeller get loose from the shaft and not turn. More likely to happen with a plastic impeller, but not unheard of with cast ones. As noted above, the pipe on the pump is the intake, coming from bottom of radiator. Depending on which engine, you might be able to put a long screwdriver or something into the pump inlet to lock the impeller, then try to turn the pulley to see if they're still connected edit--- can you connect a garden hose to the pump? see if you blow out a bunch of crud don't put that much pressure thru the rad

FWIW Wix is now owned by Mann, and they no longer make the napa filters

if you want to shell out bucks, moss sells the generators it's easy to swap polarity on a gen you might even have to set it on a new one what do you have on the car that would be polarity sensitive? I think I just swapped the wires on the ignition coil when I converted my bugeye, back in the 70's and maybe the fuel gauge, but being resistance based, it might not care light bulbs and starters don't care.....

I think Spridgets were the only use of that generator the shaft and rear plate are different if you have an oil port, I think you have the regular one after all, you don't need a tach in an A40.............. and then, you need the tach for a spridget

The 948 Sprites used a gearbox from the back end of the generator. You'll know if yours is right if it has a male thread sticking out the back end. A gearbox goes on there, and then the cable https://mossmotors.com/spm-088a-generator part #18, same drive cable as speedo

If you're interested in a stainless unit, I put a magnaflow on mine xflow with 2" pipe https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-14444

Just out of curiosity, what do Cat's use for engine mounts with a xflow? My pre-lit Westfield uses Mk1 Cortina mounts on a welded up pedestal

appears to be an old Lucas tag...LRA100 and 23716 are visible a bit under 5" diameter 2 wire hookup using the stock ford mounting bracket

Moss sells an alternator for most of the 70's cars It looks about the same as what's on my xflow

+1 for John Berget I've bought a lot of Formula Ford and Supervee tires from him over the years

#1 probably not, if you can get the line to work #2 I'd change it look at the hole where the line(s) go the bleeder uses a tapered bottom for the bleed screw to seat against, while the line has an inverted flare fitting I don't see getting a good seal, trying to put a line in that bleeder hole #3 what thread does your old cylinder have? it's prob 3/8-24 and a BUBBLE flare the Honda unit is metric I'd contact Moss Motors, and get the right ones, and do the lines the regular way your can of worms is just opening........

YMMV, but I've split 14LF calipers several times over the years with no problems when ordering kits, remember to order the rings for sealing the caliper halves---they are not included in rebuild kits

the flasher depends on the incandescent bulb load to operate properly LEDs are lower load, so it thinks you have a bulb out, and flashers faster hazards are seeing enough load from 4 LEDs easy fix is to get a flasher for LEDs from feebay or such or you can parallel resistors to the Leds to increase load