7Westfield

FWIW Wix is now owned by Mann, and they no longer make the napa filters

if you want to shell out bucks, moss sells the generators it's easy to swap polarity on a gen you might even have to set it on a new one what do you have on the car that would be polarity sensitive? I think I just swapped the wires on the ignition coil when I converted my bugeye, back in the 70's and maybe the fuel gauge, but being resistance based, it might not care light bulbs and starters don't care.....

I think Spridgets were the only use of that generator the shaft and rear plate are different if you have an oil port, I think you have the regular one after all, you don't need a tach in an A40.............. and then, you need the tach for a spridget

The 948 Sprites used a gearbox from the back end of the generator. You'll know if yours is right if it has a male thread sticking out the back end. A gearbox goes on there, and then the cable https://mossmotors.com/spm-088a-generator part #18, same drive cable as speedo

If you're interested in a stainless unit, I put a magnaflow on mine xflow with 2" pipe https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-14444

Just out of curiosity, what do Cat's use for engine mounts with a xflow? My pre-lit Westfield uses Mk1 Cortina mounts on a welded up pedestal

appears to be an old Lucas tag...LRA100 and 23716 are visible a bit under 5" diameter 2 wire hookup using the stock ford mounting bracket

Moss sells an alternator for most of the 70's cars It looks about the same as what's on my xflow

+1 for John Berget I've bought a lot of Formula Ford and Supervee tires from him over the years

#1 probably not, if you can get the line to work #2 I'd change it look at the hole where the line(s) go the bleeder uses a tapered bottom for the bleed screw to seat against, while the line has an inverted flare fitting I don't see getting a good seal, trying to put a line in that bleeder hole #3 what thread does your old cylinder have? it's prob 3/8-24 and a BUBBLE flare the Honda unit is metric I'd contact Moss Motors, and get the right ones, and do the lines the regular way your can of worms is just opening........

YMMV, but I've split 14LF calipers several times over the years with no problems when ordering kits, remember to order the rings for sealing the caliper halves---they are not included in rebuild kits

the flasher depends on the incandescent bulb load to operate properly LEDs are lower load, so it thinks you have a bulb out, and flashers faster hazards are seeing enough load from 4 LEDs easy fix is to get a flasher for LEDs from feebay or such or you can parallel resistors to the Leds to increase load

lightened flywheel for a 2 liter measurements tell me it's for a 2 liter 135 tooth ring gear--looks new nicely done, but no good to me $125 to you USPS priority box

if you still need a pan, someone just put 4 on feebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/156150141194?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D08e41b736dc14195aa79a1fd4b12a83a%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D156150141194%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Aa46c249218e0acf2598bafc3ffff3774|pageci%3Ad3ea1363-f1c8-11ee-9344-72e3c74276a3|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

just a reflection on the "screen" filters... I maintain a vintage FF for a friend years ago we were at a race, and it was running hot, ambient air way up there I had put 10 / inch screen in front of rad for rock protection -probably 3-4 inches ahead yanked it out and got 15 degrees

I was told, by a prospective dealer, over the weekend that when the new folks looked at the equipment and molds, they determined that the stuff was so old and outdated that moving it would ruin most of it if true, it's probably game over

did you ever find one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/304660318904?fits=Year%3A1971|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.6L|Trim%3ABase|Model%3APinto|Make%3AFord|Submodel%3ABase|Engine%3A1.6L+1597CC+98Cu.+In.+l4+GAS+Naturally+Aspirated|Submodel%3ABase|Engine%3A1.6L+1597CC+98Cu.+In.+l4+GAS+Naturally+Aspirated&itmmeta=01HRN2VV35RJ7X6ZJWEJS6X69Z&hash=item46ef2b8ab8:g:y2oAAOSw5PlkmdBb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAABAGM2S4nHwgtCGulpdrXDKPPEby%2FUpmrSjw6jnSmAhZZlNwyZJvOx3fR5uWitScNmWUW82nTAB23gNoz1la%2FSamGB4JL6uWkenPD%2FQyZfLoEzVNgNOyo4N3VC6MjT8rDjbNfOHrAkxOuWTsgfOF2r4Vzs71mD%2FO9b0fh97bHdb1ufYRsxkxPKuQqRmxniiQVnNO2C6jEwMWwjEAdIPWf%2FdB9bauWSn4sVRO2isdPf1YZM%2FeZ7zmJ1dwyGkQZIB0Vzhe1Ww0lGZ%2F8H53zlb1WIu2pkyxxzK75xJ7pWwbD51zNb6Fa49J0VKGfuU5AsV1VowoPKw3I6oV2V0x6MJv3da50%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-Cx76LFYw

No info on what's proper, but I do know you will have a lot less rocks to shovel out of the seat than the burgundy car....

The answer to question #1 is probably yes....and yes My prelit had a hole in the plate with a 1/4" pipe elbow on it, always wet If you do put another fitting in the plate, use an AN bulkhead fitting with a stat-o-seal washer A gob of epoxy should seal that hole, or a zap with the MIG How close is the gauge hole to an edge of the tank? Is it close enough that you could put a bulkhead fitting in the front or end of the tank near the top? when I built my new tank, I used weld-on bungs When looking for a new sender, you also need to match the resistance to the gauge

Just a thought....will your homeowner policy cover it? same as theft from your car at that point it's "stuff", not a "vehicle" HO policy covered stolen trailer for a friend

If you want a bottom mount, look at big Healeys Moss has a couple of sizes

NPT AFAIK you could always run a tap in and open them up a bit

Get longer bolts with the proper grip length, then shorten the threads with a cutoff wheel, if needed Loctite

I'd be a bit worried about that thermostat housing. I've had a pressed in fitting blow out of a xflow fuel pump , and this is running more than double the pressure. If there's enough meat there, I'd tap it for a threaded fitting. FWIW SCCA hasn't allowed those fuel fittings for years

it's for access to the bolts on the flange