7Westfield

The holes on the rx7 cylinder were close enough to the "standard" 2.25" that I only had to ream them a bit I forget if I did the cylinder, or the mount, but it wasn't a big deal

Scott the mazda mc is 13/16

In Nebraska, they put in a loophole a few years back, that says if your car did not come with a front bracket, you can pay $50 a year to only run the rear plate so you pay an extra 50/year and get one plate plus a windshield sticker typical govt scam pay more, get less

Flywheel for a 2 liter Pinto, massively lightened, about 11.5 pounds I bought this for a crossflow, but it's just a bit big...measurements tell me it's for a 2L Set of Hepolite pistons for an EARLY crossflow--chambered head, 2737 block +.040, 10.5:1 compression bought years ago for my TVR, but never used SOLD $150 for flywheel $ USPS paid-lower 48

if you don't want the shifter moved back, you can shorten the v6 input shaft enough so that the spacer between t9 and bellhousing is not needed that's what I did took about 15 minutes I used the BH3 bellhousing, mostly because of price starter on right -intake- side had to cut away most of the left side starter mount to get clearance in the tunnel Titan concentric slave unit, but if you're keeping the standard release mechanism BH11 looks good don't forget you'll need a new propshaft

I converted a T3 to T9 a couple of years ago I had to use the mount from the t3, as the t9 mount was too wide to go in the tunnel the frame plate will likely have to move back if IIRC, the distance from front of gearbox to mount was about 5" more for the t9 also the t9 is fatter at the back end of the box itself I assume it's a Ford engine, I used the BH3 bellhousing from Burton, and the shifter came up perfectly in the old location I used the concentric clutch slave unit do you have the correct input shaft on your t9? you need the short one you can modify the long one the front end of the input shaft should be even with the front of the bellhousing for a xflow engine Charlie

what are the headlights?

Top Fuel runs nitromethane all the crews wear face masks when they test run one if you wander up at the wrong time, it just brings tears to your eyes really takes some hot stuff to get 12K hp out of 500 inches

I think the 2300s have the oil filter behind the motor mount, whereas the 2000s have it in front

and theft prevention LOL

I put an electric unit on the westy easy enough to do, but the one I got off fleabay for $30 is very slow--nice parking brake, but def not for emergency use look online for "12v linear actuator"

This is what came out of my Wesfield mounts on left side of tunnel I removed it to get more room Somebody should recognize it handle is close to a Spridget, don't know about mount

When the tank in my westy needed it's 4th (at least) crack repair, I found a premade one online that was good length and width wise, but too tall. Since I needed a sloped bottom, I just cut the top off at an angle and put on a new "bottom" Flipped it over and put sender and filler in new flat top something like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-2161a

on a street app, the 5 port makes more sense that's how I did mine

not staked, because it's covering a low pressure passage, but still a real PITA if you can put it in a mill, a cobalt drill at low speed with lots of pressure should work most people just go at it with a dremel, then drill to 7/16 and tap 1/4 NPT the one on the front marked X is where a lot of FF builders put the oil back in with dry sump systems. eliminates a couple of corners in the flow path

How did they plug that port? epoxy? FF engine builders used to just sandwich a piece of beer can with the gasket, now we have gaskets without the hole sometimes fill the bottom af manifold with epoxy, but I never saw one filled on the head side I don't think anybody uses hot tank anymore--you can't get the nasty chemicals A lot have gone to baking the blocks, then shot blasting it they look like new almost any good cleaning process will trash the cam bearings don't forget to take out all the end plugs in the oil passages, including the ball bearing at the back

start with Dave Bean

feed it thru a relay?

this is how you get mech tach drive I assume this will fit the older blocks as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/392053020391?hash=item5b482e56e7:g:QJ8AAOSwwAdbC4KP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4K%2FPGbMC3slYrLjD7zi717xXSgtb5nh02Z%2FUToc5JeQacLiu5%2FFZko7%2BfEqxeaNXLD9jgMC1VfnYpEv4cfswTxZXL%2Fc702xrptOSap2wdSo17PBpFOzVHIviuYfaVbir3iL70RuJCYD20P4czj3l6pvBSxrv2OfX1Q7qxogypl0SbbVnG8tz1mO59nsMZCXy9Uw%2FIwS4raSkVCslAU2B8eqZkZEsblF46g3jQ9T7pVSM6XwHu7YT4MbgIJi3q5DQBJW4du8owlaxJUq95gp%2B2UzMXTWfXUiWX%2BX%2FCalpN5zg|tkp%3ABk9SR-yuo6uVYg same seller has the gearbox as well I probably have one I'd sell too, but can't get to those boxes right now best have your Smith's unit tested first I think they are very expensive to rebuild, so you might not want to use it I don't even know who to send it to, now that Nisonger has quit the repair biz

Halon is no longer available Dupont FE-36 and 3M Novec are the replacements there are also some AFFF -foam- systems, but they aren't SFI rated, so racers don't use them

I'd call that overkill we don't run one that big on a Formula Ford As for mounting it there, remember any heat it dissipates is going to go right into the water, so I question if there's any net gain

thanks I ordered a set wish they were convex, but still prob better than what I have

I just used 1/4' Lexan for my Westfield. Any good auto glass shop should be able to cut you a piece of flat laminated glass, or tell you who can. Where did that mirror come from? I want a set. Charlie

HO LEE CHIT

anybody wants Jake's book, I have a very nice spare copy $30 posted US Charlie