7Westfield

the older tach's usually ground thru the case, instead of a separate wire, so you would need to insulate the case from the dash not easy to do there used to be places that would convert a tach for you, but I think most of them are gone, and it wasn't cheap I think Nisonger was one, but they are out of the repair business there are 2 types of smith connections--earlier ones used a loop of the lead from switch to coil going thru a plastic clip on the back to generate a signal. you had to have the loop going the "right" way for it to work later ones had 2 push on connectors for the wire and the loop was internal your ideal solution is a tach from a later MGB, if you can find someone to convert it you might try a place in Albuquerque I think it's called Albuquerque Speedometer I first dealt with them in the 80's I was going thru town in my Corvair and the speedo crapped---he fixed me that day BUT I tried to get something done a few years ago, and both price and time were ridiculous YMMV call Moss--maybe they know a guy, who knows a guy....

FWIW Bugeyes were mechanical, driven from the generator I don't recall when they went electric

rather be lucky than good....... and to your original question, I wouldn't expect your switch to be solid state, but no way to tell other than testing and seeing if smoke leaks out, unless there's a wiring diagram

pretty sure this is what I have in mine, but located in the lower hose https://www.ebay.com/itm/293373075512?fits=Model%3ARabbit|Make%3AVolkswagen&_skw=vw+rabbit+fan+switch&itmmeta=01K1B3VN1QQ9KXPYSCRJNEQ3HD&hash=item444e65e038:g:dHkAAOSwiM9hs4O7&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1eHKR55QZV7SCaaiLBrhSXYN05cOR7IsoQyc%2Bj7Z9Qe%2B8Dn89sioAAluuRQ66bxF1EIxpJVG5bcDFDG2xUbZTauSDyAZZEoCslN5xcaCU9Ablrv%2FpVbMMkS24EFzERpzet8gcksXDZIi2N9hDDFmJe1ZMgR3HzC5jfGEkCDry4HEwxsxKfyGz6TEIVOzIzPhefdf7XZeo74Ms9efKJ7KmFfDr111--Dnzwf8LFAnMvI4LIzS9TEjql1T6rvt%2FMpu4eAvU5hxeQG5FRtDnjdW31Xyy3RQ%2B9Z9wfwWLrf0ro7Qg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMhtHu44pm Burton still has a couple of options, if you are ordering from them

OTOH I've done a couple of FF racks, and just used a good synthetic gen purpose grease

some sort of boot cover?

Don't use DOT 5 in these old systems, it does not have the proper additives. It will go right past the seals. Been there---done that Dot 4 is plenty good it's what I use in everything, even the formula ford if you REALLY want a silicone base try DOT 5.1 If you have Spit calipers -14LF- don't forget to order the seal that goes between the body halves, it doesn't come in the kit Lots of folks say NEVER split a 14LF, but I usually do just for access. Just don't reuse the old seal Girling kits from Pegasus I don't know what Moss sells If you have the Escort axle, you may be able to use Spitfire wheel cylinders, just match bore size that's what I did on mine, but it's a Cortina axle

Given that they just add another crotch strap, I would say no.

use the VR1 it has the zinc AFAIK the issue with older engines is down to the cam and tappets, The zinc reduces friction where the lifter "wipes" the cam. Roller tappets solve this. Guy down the block built a DeSoto 331 for his Model A with roller lifters, and doesn't care about zinc. What I don't understand is how newer OHC engines get around this.....are they all running roller rockers? Does this mean older OHC engines, like say an old Alfa with bucket tappets should add zinc?

I run Brad Penn / Penn Grade in my xflows Our engine builder loves it, so good enough for me I even run it in the truck, to simplify inventory It has extra zinc for flat tappets, if that applies to you I use a generic synthetic for diff just be sure to get a GL-5 rating MTL is great for most transmissions

Been 50 years ago, but I switched my Bugeye over. Not too much hassle I used some japanese alternator, but it is possible to reverse the polarity of a generator Got a tach from a Fiat you can have them converted, but pricey don't recall if fuel gauge needed anything I THINK the wiper motor was ok switch coil wires around electric fuel pump? starter doesn't care if you have one of the Lucas "voltage stabilizers" for the gauges, a neg ground unit is cheap from Moss

My Westfield came with a setup similar to Phil's just a cradle to set the tire in, and a strap at the top

woolfaircraft.com can make them for you or, start with https://www.ebay.com/itm/195820530264?_skw=coolant+tube+1.25"+aluminum&itmmeta=01JSZ2JYQRQS6HJ83DM76RH7WZ&hash=item2d97d02a58:g:3SkAAOSwhCBm8Mbv&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA8FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1d0W2eul78tH2oaupUhTv4a3crJTECeL%2F7xom%2FSCRNV9ct5y9Vz0mbWXA9tx9ycNpmwsWh3A5NNHyP%2B7qMhS381Teym8v%2B3e3bedneXK5CaOTdFetmOUXKZIcPOBPA1m8evS0o3lLjKWr4l1X3eZNe5HE%2BrN4WDs%2Fdt9JypIxfQxDPvDGBLXL%2FM1wdn%2B81UHirHkvOURYSFP8NbDGWEHAtNy8haiRzhMCHlIWYGRIhGKj3Xv1epkasDtbgFRCnSu9V125waSAwWj1bF6n5BFVHZMrEyNSCArnj261YTWUTL7w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMiOzL4s9l I got mine from speedway cuz they are 5 miles away anything from stock (anywhere) will be shorter, just adjust hose lengths speedwaymotors.com

You might want to try the Westfield forum, they have several articles on these cooling systems wscc.co.uk you'll need a trial membership at a tenner for 60 days to access the tech section

Those old gas fired heaters were fabulous. First year Corvairs had them. I put one in my bugeye sprite The chevy ones (by Southwind I think) actually had a spark plug, with a set of points on the fan motor shaft

Just think of it as extra radiator capacity LOL that said, I took mine out years ago

I wonder if the nearest whse only had one of each, and they had to send from another locaction still doesn't address the enormous packaging waste - and not just them...

It appears the de minimus exemption goes away next month they don't yet have a system to handle something like 4 million pkg a day

very nice takes me back to the days when I built an adapter to put a Hewland behind a Mazda 13b

measuring the "length" just lay a tape along the center line end to end

I'm looking for a new set for the Westfield. The current ones aren't really big enough for a 205/60-13 tire. Does anyone on this side of the pond make any? I looked at the ones from Kit Builders, they are not long enough. I need about 9-9 1/2 wide and 36 long. Not looking for carbon, they will be painted.

I assume Holley built the 5200 for Ford and GM because there was a buck to be made at the time Later on, some oval track groups used it as a spec carb---build what you want, but feed it thru a 5200 I can't see enough volume to justify production now

1.5 "

In a recent post someone (MV8?) mentioned trying a Mopar item on a xflow. So, I needed some Honda parts recently, and looked around Rockauto a bit. Found one from a 79 Volare 6cyl, and for a huge $7, what the heck... Nice looking casting, had Made in Mexico sticker on box, over printed made in China go figure Four Seasons 84837 It's the one on the left in the photo Maybe the alternate routing will help someone

I use a wider clamp, about 3", 2 bolts