Ian7

Car is built and titled as a home built in Canada. Could it be disassembled to some extent, shipped, and rebuilt as a Caterham using the never-used Caterham chassis plate number, or do you think they'd stop it at the border?

Anyone built and registered a Caterham in, or transferred a registration to Georgia? Did it rank as easy, average, or nigh-on-impossible relative to other places?

hope this photo upload works, if not email me I'll send it that way.

Hard to be sure from the photo above since it's not a pure "straight on" view, but that rear rocker looks to have a serious falling rate ratio that you may want to reconsider. Also, you might consider triangulating those rockers themselves. I'll see if I can find a photo of the ones on the race car. worked, see below

Can anyone vouch for or claim experience with either BHT or Ober's? I've been in FFord a while but never heard of them under these names. Thx.

If you drive up and visit Montreal, you'll be the only one on the road using turn signals !! :-)

Mike and John, check your PM's please.

SEE RE-POST FARTHER DOWN FOR CURRENT AVAILABILITY; THANKS Selling off a bunch of books I'll never have time to read again. Most are essentially perfect condition. ianmacp777 ((at)) gmail ((dot)) com 514-300-2416 How To Make Your Car Handle Fred Puhn $10 SOLD Life In The Pit Lane Steve Matchett $20 SOLD Racing Mechanic - Ermano Coughi Jeremy Walton $40 The Designers L.J.K. Setright $20 SOLD Art & Science of Grand Prix Driving Niki Lauda $10 SOLD The New Formula One – A Turbo Age Niki Lauda $10 Unfair Advantage Mark Donahue (soft) $20 SOLD Race Car Engineering and Mechanics Valkenburg $80 Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design Costin $60 The Last Road Race – 1957 Pescara GP Williams $10 Side Glances Peter Egan (soft) $20 SOLD At Large and Abroad Henry N. Manney (soft) $offer SOLD The Story of March Mike Lawrence $40 SOLD Racing Stewart – Birth of a GP Team Hamilton $20 Classic Racing Cars Cyril Posthumous $30 SOLD Racing Cars – Masterpieces of Engineering Tipler $5 Great Book of Sports Cars Dean Batchelor $10 Classic Cars 1945-1975 Martin Buckley $15 Illustrated Motorcar Legends – Lotus Roy Bacon $5 Men and Machines of Indycar Racing 1993/94 $offer Pictorial History of Motorcycling Middlehurst $10 With Flying Colors – Pirelli Album of Motorsport L.J.K. Setright $40 Grand Prix of Monaco Rainer Schlegelmilch $50 Targa Florio – 20th Century Epic Pino Fondi $500 Sponsorship and the World of Motor Racing Guy Edwards $500 *

Sorry dannykao, my experience with the motor is limited to running them in the FBMW race car. They were mated to a Hewland FTR transaxle, which was WAY more stout than required, so can't comment on a 7 installation durability. Just wanted to say that there are very likely a bunch of really cheap engines around the country. Try posting on race forums. cheers

F1 is so completely dominated by aerodynamics these days that suspension movement is minimal (compared to tire deflections) and geometry is really just a second-order effect. Ironically, it was Chapman who once said "any suspension design will work if you don't let it". :-)

I've got a straight-cut Quaife in my car, really not all that noisy, given the exhaust and wind noises as well :-)

Same engine as used in the now-defunct Formula BMW series. Should be able to find leftover engines for under 700 bucks. When we ran the series, BMW made you take the engine out of the car after just fifty hours and replace it. They didn't even take them back (!) wasn't worth the labor to rebuild them, cheaper to get fresh ones off the factory assembly line.

seconded....

I used cheapo spray-on rustproofing undercoat on the inside surfaces of all fenders. Helps stop rock chips and stars, without adding too much weight, but more significantly, leaves the fenders free to flex a little. (Helps that my fenders are black). So far so good.....

oh, and yes, give it as much as it will hold up to the bottom of the lower plug, BUT DON'T FILL TOO QUICKLY, or the excess oil will run down the axle tubes and flood the hub seals while waiting for it's chance to drain out of the pumpkin.

Yup, plastic "cap" in top right of photo is breather, leave it alone. My pumpkin actually has two screw-in plugs on the back face, one a few inches 'higher' than the other. Take both out, oil goes in top one until it starts to dribble out the bottom one. Very handy....

from a guy (me!) also battling weber issues, anyone want to start (or point to) a thread on affordable conversion of Kents to F.I. (if possible) ? thx

The vintage Formula Ford crowd would pay dearly for those rims if they are in good or restorable condition. :-)

It just told me I'm 315 miles from a cool diner in south Jersey... as if, more like 615 :-)

I'm 53, and couldn't agree more !! I facebook-ed for a very brief period - my god - the drivel people thought was interesting ! :-( and texting... has the younger generation become afraid to actually talk? I call people, leave a voice message and 5 seconds later get a text reply; they were obviously there, and didn't answer.... sheeesh

1. are the damper shafts visible? if so, put a tywrap snug around the shaft right against the damper body, go drive, then see if the tywrap is now hard up against the top stop. 1b. if no access to damper shaft, look for a way to lightly attach something to the fixed chassis that will get knocked off by some moving part of the suspension near full travel; will need to be creative, but can be done. 2. squirt a good amount of baby powder or equivalent on the underside of the fenders, then drive, see if the tire rubs it off.

Admittedly not typical... I put 3000 miles on my previous 7 in one weekend trip to LOG18, but have only 2000 miles on my current car that I've had for 5 years..... Sigh!

mhc: nice photo, I see a hydraulic throw out bearing actuation, and what looks like a bleeder line parallel to it, but what does the blue push-pull cable on the tranny do? doesn't seem to be in an appropriate location for a sequential shift barrel actuation. thx

mhc: nice photo, I see a hydraulic throw out bearing actuation, and what looks like a bleeder line parallel to it, but what does the blue puch-pull cable on the tranny do? doesn't seem to be in an appropriate location for a sequential shift barrel actuation. thx