MV8

The mech/tech probably gets about 1/10th the shop hourly rate for the flat rate of the task, which is determined by the mfg. Such mechs can make more on the weekend working from home if they don't need the shop equipment. That is one reason shops isolate the customers from the mechs. The highly repetitive work where the mfg has few drivetrain options and is typically more reliable (imports) generally pays the most. Since the mech gets paid by the job, not how long it takes them or how good a job they do. It drives sloppy careless work and outright fraud. Easy six digit pay doing only oil changes in a hurry in a busy area. Not who you want trying to troubleshoot or do much else. Aviation is different, but you still have major airline mechs who are called "flashlight holders" because that is all they can be trusted to do and the org is so big they don't need to be dealt with or mechs who only do work in one area are not exposed to all aspects unless they work the line, handling problems between flights. Generally, the experience general aviation mech is much more qualified all around but it usually doesn't pay as well. There are exceptions to everything. Pay and experience often do not go hand in hand. I rarely have any work done for me, but when I do, I often buy pizzas or provide water and snacks. It can make a big difference in the quality of work.

Congrats! I think that is the same one I was referring to here in May:

If you cannot find any, there are relining services. Here is one: https://www.brakematerialsandparts.com/brake-relining

To protect the lower chassis rail from the axle tube, 6-8 inches of 3/4" heater hose split down one side would cushion as a droop stop.

Any pressurized system needs to expand when heated. There must be enough air in the system to allow the coolant to stay in the system when hot, compressing the air. I suggest retesting with the coolant "topped" to the mid point between max and min. If there is still coolant loss, consider a pressure test for the system to check the caps (done cold); basically a hand pump and a fitting adapter. If you need to fill to max or completely fill for more coolant volume, consider adding an unpressurized expansion catch tank connected to the small 1/4 inch port near a cap in the system so when it vents, it will flow into the tank. The hose extends into the bottom of the tank and stays covered at all times with coolant, so the system will siphon the coolant back into the system as it cools so no coolant is lost.

Continuity testing is resistance testing. The noise is optional. All sorts of videos to teach you basic electricity.

Resistance checks are usually safe to do, versus applying power and checking voltage. The battery should be disconnected because inadvertently checking resistance on a powered circuit can damage the dvm. What you should be checking for are shorts to ground on wires that normally have B+. A good dvm will have a beeper function under resistance checks to where the meter emits a tone when the positive and negative leads are brought together. Alligator/roach clips are good for making four foot long jumper wires for testing greater distances than what the meter leads will reach. Write down each thing you test to keep track. I know you have a 2001, but there should be a 2010 assembly guide for dedion and sigma in the site library with harness layouts in the last few pages that will probably be as close as you can get to an actual schematic.

As I recall, you are using a 90-93 miata donor. It sounds like you have connected the four terminals correctly. The problem is the haz switch controls ground, not power to the flasher unit. A diode could be spliced into the red wire from the panel light control switch to the haz switch (stripe toward the panel light control switch) and jumper the haz swithc side to the orange wire, so cutting the hazards on does not light up all the parking lamps. (Diode won't work as it will cause the parking lamps to activate the hazard flasher). Another option is to add a relay between the haz switch and the flasher unit to provide ground to the flasher and power to the bulb at the same time. Many different ways to do it. Familiar with arduino projects but no first hand experience.

Not normal, but I wonder if the studs are slightly oversize to a more commonly available size. Slightly oversize flange holes would still center on the same stud spacing. It looks like the manifold was cut to lower the carbs.

You are just trying to replace the miata oem haz button with this, is that correct? You still need to determine what the pins do when the CAT button is pressed.

I compare gaskets. I'm confident this is a xflow intake and not a pinto because: 1) The old gasket impression is still visible (xflow is scalloped/narrowed). 2) The inner bolt holes are all higher (relative to the ports) on the xflow. 3) The heat crossover would not seal if using the pinto gasket. 4) The missing center bolt hole.

I'm not an EE but I have a very broad electrical repair background. Crank trigger wiring is like other wiring but with a shield jacket to eliminate potential "noise" EMI from being picked up, causing the ignition to be triggered as a misfire. Look for shielded "signal" wire that is stranded versus solid for flexibility, "twisted pair", and probably 18 ga. It takes special tools to crimp pins that will go on either end. It does not need to be automotive specific. Common LAN wiring could be used if protected from vibration, oil, heat, etc as the jacket may not be suitable. Some oems in the 80-90s have used regular wire but with aluminum foil as a shield and kept the length short. I know people who have removed the foil and had no problems but how long the wire is, how noisy the alternator is, and how the wire is routed are some factors. Proprietary crimpers ($$$) are often used to crimp pins for oem connectors and skill/experience or extra pins and extra wire to waste until you get the technique right. The oem service manuals and powertrain control/emission diagnosis manuals for a car that came with that year engine are the best sources of information. I gave you the value for checking the ckp on a 2003 ford zetec with a single coil pack versus individual coils (duratec).

From what I can tell from your posts and hooking up the battery backwards, you are not overthinking this. Like many things, this is not something that is done well in a hurry. There is much that can go wrong so slow and careful is the road to reliability.

I think I drew the shiny one in middle school. Even if the buyer gets it into their state and lives in a low pop corner, all it takes is a fix-it ticket for something that can't be fixed without spending $$$$ for custom glass or cutting it down to below eye level.

Make two tables, with each pin name as a row (13,14,x1,x2) and as columns. Fill the first table with resistance checks between each pin. Press the button once and fill the second table. One terminal will go to all the left turn bulbs, one to the right turn bulbs, no connection when the switch is off but shorted when on along with a third terminal from a two pin flasher with the other flasher pin going to the fuse for B+. The last terminal would short to the haz flasher terminal when the haz switch is off to feed the turn signal indicator toggle that splits power to the left and right turn signals in parallel to the haz switch and would use one flasher for haz and turn. This is only one way to wire it. Since your switch is missing four terminals it may not light up with the parking lamps or when on.

Pictures of what was removed, what was installed (many different lights for Harleys), picture or info on the light switch gear (many different types of those). It could be that the wiring is marginal for the old lights so no upgrades, or the change you made was wired incorrectly. You've not really told me anything. Do not put a higher amp fuse in the circuit. You should map out the circuit to know what you have.

Yes to both. Did it work before? Probably would blow with the bulbs removed but that is not a good way to test it. Pictures?

Looks like the ecu has failed based on dead ignition channels and no EDIS module to check (integral to the ecu). The shielding on the ckp isn't critical and would not be connected / grounded on one end anyway. It is unlikely the ckp has failed. You probably will need an alternator once it runs again with a new ecu or efi system. Since you are in a hurry, pic an off-the-shelf system with an a conservative tune available for your config. Before replacing anything, look for overheated wires throughout the car even if a fuse did not blow. These are wires where the insulation is not smooth and uniform should be replaced as they could short or have hidden damage. Lot of cars end up in the junkyard due only to intermittent problems. The cost is not fixing, but finding.

What are the results of the checks I posted yesterday morning?

In regard to tanks with no baffles, here is a '90s ranger poly fuel tank (installs longitudinally in the chassis) replacing my '83 carbed v8 ranger steel tank as part of an upgrade. These newer tanks use a single in-tank pump where the earlier tanks have nothing to prevent slosh and used an in-tank lift pump that goes to a quart reservoir that feeds the external high pressure pump. The reservoir has four lines; one from the tank lift pump, one to the high pressure pump, one from the engine fuel rail, and one to the tank as the return. The return and lift pump keep the reservoir full. The return to the tank is the upper most line to carry off excess without increasing the pressure in the reservoir. They make similar reservoirs now with integral pumps, similar to mercedes oem.

255ms is a very short period but there must be more to it than that number. I would enable just the accel with 130ms, increase/decrease by half to find the point where it is just enough to cover the lean spot (no more), look at decel to pull at least as much fuel on closing throttle. Pull more than added by accel to aid engine braking. Need more accel enrichment in: first third of throttle, first third of rpm range, cooler engine temps. Switching to being based on just manifold pressure would create conflicts.

Wemtd, it makes sense to me (though this is not a normal failure mode). Haltech sells a single channel and dual channel ignition module that is from the vw/audi parts bin. To replace an edis4 (12 pins), it would need to be a dual channel with 7 pins (single channel has 5 pins). Vovchndr, it sounds like you have stopped troubleshooting. It is too early in the process to know what the best options are or if new parts are going to be damaged from when you shorted out the entire car. The alternator regulator is probably ruined as well; maybe the fuel pump too (even if it makes noise). When I get in a hurry, bad things happen so I just don't.

I don't know if the pectel uses the earlier ford edis module as a go between to the coils. I see a slighty flicker but I think that is just from the starter load fluctuating. I expect the terminal being tested goes either to an edis module or the pectel. Is and does the tach work during cranking? If not, unplug the crank sensor (CKP) and test each terminal to ground with the key on (good= 1.0-2.0vdc). Measure the resistance of the CKP (good= 250-1k ohms). While you are looking around, the EDIS (if equipped) will have a 12 pin flat connector and the wires to the coil pack will come from it. That would be the next thing to check.

Remove the wiring plug on the coil pack. Put an incandescent tester probe on the middle terminal with the tester clip lead to ground. Key on = bright bulb/close to battery voltage. Cranking = flashing tester bulb. Results?

Hooray! Back to basics. The slosh issue can be fixed with an external tank mod and no additional space required but you might lose a half gallon of total fuel capacity. The tank would be cut along the bend line to the right of the strainer to the end of the tank. Cut 2-3 inches into the rear wall and bottom at the ends of the long cut to form flaps. Fold the flaps in to overlap then trim the overlap so they butt together, then tig. The resulting right end tank corner overhang is cut off and moved to the left next to the strainer to fill the gap. Gravity would keep the sump/cup full and the cup capacity would be enough to keep from going lean at high rpm for the duration of a high G left turn, also considering the return flow would also flow into the cup.