wdb

It seems odd to me that it was working well one day and not the next. It suggests a component failure rather than a cable out of adjustment. Can you tell us more about how it shifted prior to the problem?

My teeth are rattling just looking at that road.

Eyeballing it is going to be an exercise in frustration IMESHO*. I've chucked up a piece of wooden dowel in a drill and held a file against it to make clutch alignment tools. I've also wrapped tape around one alignment tool to make it work in another situation. * In My Ever So Humble Opinion

Porsche 996 folk dislike metal impellers. They send nasty shards through the cooling system if/when they break, and they can grind holes through the block to the point where the block becomes a paperweight! So they stick with plastic.

You can never have too many Daves!

Possible, insurance companies are really flexing their muscles lately. A local hillclimb club, Pennsylvania Hillclimb Association (PHA), mandated neck restraints for 2024 also.

If you really want to look for wear on gearbox parts I'm sorry to tell you that you'll need to do more disassembly. A lot more. Taking the shift rods out will give you a look at the shift forks, but the synchros will require a total teardown. If it shifted okay before your clutch issues arose I would let it go for now and stick with the broken stuff.

I'm sorry that happened to you. What I see as the likely culprit is the charger. If you had completely dry cells, your battery was severely overcharged. If that was my charger I would throw it in the garbage. I routinely leave cars on chargers for weeks at a time, sometimes months. I have never had a charger cook a battery, in fact quite the opposite. I use CTEK chargers. (I have 4 of them, it used to be 5 but I sold the lithium-specific one.) They cost a bit more but they are worth it. One non-fried battery more than covers the difference. I also used CTEK's "recover" feature on one battery, which saved me from purchasing a new battery for our E93 for over 3 years. I was impressed by that! It took the charger over a week to go through the whole process, but it genuinely "recovered" the battery and gave it a new lease on life. E90 BMW's are notoriously finicky about battery voltage too. This is just my personal experience. There are probably other equally good chargers on the market. I've seen a few folks say NOCO chargers are good quality, for example.

Even with size 9-1/2 feet and skinny shoes, I still overlap pedals. One trick the previous owner taught me is to depress the clutch first, which leaves more room on that side for my braking foot. I'm also going to play around with moving the throttle pedal to the right. I have a full windshield and haven't had any nasty things hit my face (yet?). But I also always wear close-fitting protective lenses of some sort. I have no cover of any kind for my Caterham. I would suggest a tonneau if you're bothered by leaving it open.

Thanks! Here's a link without all of the foo. https://www.hagerty.com/media/news/how-caterham-is-racing-forward-in-its-new-factory/

I'm a big fan of CTEK chargers. They handle a variety of battery types and, given enough time, they can also "recover" a poorly maintained battery. I used that feature on our E93 and got 5 extra years out of the original battery. Of course they do all the normal stuff too. Very well.

Having a twincam engined 7 myself, I am naturally intrigued by this car. The exhaust header is very interesting, never seen one like it. Also, can anyone explain what the large pipe is that crosses down low, in front of the engine, and is tie-wrapped to the frame? I assume it is part of the cooling system, but what function does it serve?

1. Look for minimalist ultra-lightweight sneakers. I have a pair of Merrell trail running shoes that hug my feet like gloves, provide great traction on pedals or planet, and are all-day comfortable. I got them because I didn't want to look like some kind of poseur d**khead wearing "driving shoes", which at the time were all pretty outlandish looking. There a quite a few calmer colors and styles now, so maybe it's not so much of a problem. 2. Can't help you. I've wrecked two oil pans. Skid plate is in my future. 3. I drive with lights on at all times. I avoid anything remotely resembling a major road, and if I absolutely have to go there I get it over with as quickly as I can. 4. Hahahahahaha! Who in their right mind would steal a Caterham?!? Do of course keep any small valuables on your person. 5. Can't help you. But yes I assume my incandescent 7" headlights provide abysmal light, possibly aimed at treetops. 6. Oog. "Prevent" is likely not possible. Just be physically present when ingress and egress is taking place. 7. I'm afraid mine's a bit shabby looking. I am equipped to refinish the bare aluminum but have not started on it. 8. Yes! Stop fretting over so many little things. Get in it, set the mirrors, and go. The rest will just happen.

There's a lot of chatter in the Porsche M9x engine realm about oil filter quality and manufacturing location. Specifically Wix and NAPA Gold as these have go-to filters for that bunch for a long time. The short version is that there are filters coming out of China now that used to be US made, and there have been quality issues with them. I'd recommend trying to find US made filters.

I'm not sure I understand. Your car pushed oil out to the catch can before, and now it does not? What changed besides a prettier can?

Nothing at all is wrong with a RHD Se7en. I just want to see more videos made by people who are in the US. I thought that was going to be one of them, based on the teaser pic.

Looks like the mounting holes on the old one have been drilled out to a large size. Wiggle room maybe?

Maybe it will be a Mercedes 4-pot. They just backed out of their EV-only strategy and now will build smokers into the 2030's (at least).

I'm putting together a list of parts for a dry sump and need some technical assistance regarding the design and plumbing. - Is there a downside to making up my own lines? If there is a seriously good reason to have them professionally done, I'll go that route. Otherwise I was planning on buying raw materials and making my own. - Straight fittings vs. angled vs. 90 degree: for example in/out of the filter housing. Are there places where 90's are bad, and places it doesn't matter? - Fitting colors: is there a standard where one is used for X and another for Y? - BPT vs. AN: can they mix & match safely? For example is there a problem with putting BPT on the oil pump end, and AN on the filter end?

I read the first post and immediately thought "engine is not grounding to the chassis". I once had a friend with an MGB that would melt throttle cables. The problem was the engine ground had broken, and the engine was using the throttle cable to complete the circuit.

I'd look at the transmission mount too. It may also be possible that the exhaust is hanging at an odd angle and causing the header pipes to flex.

Holy smokes. That's F1 territory. Brakes must be something else too; when he comes up behind that Elan there is a ton of speed evaporating in an instant.

Boo! their teaser pic shows LHD. Got me to click. ***grumble***

We went through an insurance nightmare about 2 years ago. My wife bumped a car in a parking lot, causing extraordinarily minor damage, but still. Then within 60 days she had an actual accident, again her fault. Our auto insurance carrier immediately dropped us. This despite my wife being with the carrier for 40+ years, me being with them for 20+ years, plus us having the house and an umbrella policy with them for 30+ years. They didn't say "we're raising your rates", they didn't try to renegotiate the policy, nothing. And we had no recourse. They simply dumped us, end of story.

Not to speak for others but I have a son in San Antonio. IMO for much of the year it is simply too blamed hot to be in an open car. Even when it's cooler it still *feels* hot too. 80 degrees in San Antonio feels like 90 degrees in SE PA. It's oppressive.