slowdude

They have the A arm in the back too. Basically they took the early live axle with the A arm and threw it in the back. I've got a 69 so slightly more refined driving experience and interior. Engine is formula ford spec, cams, 1600cc and 4 way disk brakes. Big deal for back then.

I am looking at a rust free 2 door GT shell out in cali to transplant my GT running gear into and I just do not have the space to do it. It hurts big time after seeing that MK1.

Did you ever find the source of your disappearing coolant?

I just missed you. Rolled in right as they were starting the cars. Dang. Also the lotus cortina will always be a big favorite.

Upgradea: LED lights (or bulbs if you're cheap like me. Third high headlight because people don't see you. Try and ship it with the full hood on. Mine had the tonneau and water got in behind the seats.

Regarding DRLs. My headlight switch has a mid setting which is headlights and taillights. I use it as a drl. As John has mentioned, you will need to run a switch, with a relay on a separate 12v power circuit. They're pretty bare bones cars, so any asks like this will always be a bit of a tweak and test mentality.

Very good news! Mine went out on my K series after a year or so of owning it.. Figured it was better to just plumb in a mechanical gauge. That way if its not showing any pressure I know i'm screwed. Also it goes down a lot on right hand corners.

I agree with this. Especially for higher compression engines. In reality though, it's a ford engine, so if it's filled up, send it?

What ECU are you running? Revilla on the UK forums did a few schematics a while back with the wiring and parts numbers. I'll try to find it. I may have uploaded it into the documents. Great follow so far. Might be worth migrating to a build thread.

I'd be into a backup K-series motor but shipping this thing and sending it over here would be a big challenge. I'm with @wdb, aint worth it unless its super cheap.

But is a 30 year old porsche 911 a good daily? I almost had a heart attack for the PDK service on the macan. The labor does not pencil out in the long run for the car unless you do it yourself?

Agreed. Your late 80s / early 90s range rover makes a ton of sense. Simple V8, solid chassis engineering with basic computers. We are over engineering everything nowadays.

My parents had stupid luck with ford focuses: 2004: roached at 280k miles and 16 years old 2001: roached at 168k miles and 19 years old 2010: roached out at 270k and 10 years old 2017: still going minty at 100k miles. None of these cars quit mechanically. New England salt rot got to them first, or smoking roached out the interior. The focuses never left us stranded and only required routine maintenance: oil changes and brakes. Bearings / bushings were done each 100k. I'd go with something pre-crazy electronics. Nothing german, they're too complex.

Ahh, sorry for posting late to this. Emerald has an adaptor for the Kent. This allows you to run a crank position sensor to time injector pulses, then run an electronic ignition. https://www.emeraldm3d.com/ford-crossflow-36-1-trigger-wheel-kit.html I'm looking to do this on my cortina. The emerald has been pretty easy for my doo doo monkey brain to figure out.

Uship was a bit of a PITA for me. Not as much customer service / updates as I'd like. Reliable, horseless carriage which are owned by the employees vs a broker are a significantly better value.

shhhhhh. Need these to crater in value. I can't even find a good one for under 40k anymore.

Welcome! Well bought!

Yo, I run a 5 point harness, @CBuff swears by his 6 point harness. Minimum 5 point with the correct dates. Make sure your helmet is Snell 2015 or newer; since youre buying new, do what I did and spend the money for a 2020, as there is a 10 year limit at most tracks. HANS: I prefer the necksgen as it gives me more head movement to see while i'm driving. It's personal preference. Arm restraints are $30 at jegs I dont think I have a kill switch sticker. I should probably get one Fire suppression is your call. I just carry one in the tow car and i'm insured, so Numbers; I used some of @CBuff and just ordered some new ones. You can have leftover #'s which arent 1 or 3 if you want

As croc has mentioned. Most likely a sierra diff. That k series will be a riot. I think we may have enough people now for a bulk deal on oil filters from discount mg rover spares. Enjoy! (And don't forget to rev that motor out).

@theDreamer, get your tow rig ready, we NEED you here!

That blue car was very good. But it wasn't a unicorn (unless you're in cali). Welcome and there are plenty here who are willing to help support the 7's addiction. You could also check out the MK Indy, if you're not interested in parting with 60k (i don't blame you).

Des inspired me to create a fan club (check my signature). GET TRACK READY BOYO

Kit Car direct has heaters. DOOOO IT. You'll find more use when it gets colder out.

Welcome! Prepare to sell your porsche, it's going to be a snorefest compared to whichever 7 you choose. I've got an S3, imperial chassis as well. Similar leg proportions: 9.5 size shoe (wide, I've got flippers), inseam 31-32, waist (32). I'm 5'7, so from the bottom down we are close-ish. I had trouble finding the pedals on my first drive (as everyone does with a new vehicle). Since then, no problems. It's easier to wear driving shoes for the extra peace of mind, but my flippers are still wide. People with SV's will say go SV. People with S3s will say go S3. Driving an SV after driving my S3, I found the SV felt much larger and I had less space in my lane to enjoy myself. It's all in my head. Trying the car on wont do much I think. To really get it you need 3 or 4 days with a car.

Honda has a good history with turbo bikes. As emissions regulations increase, smaller displacement engines with electric assisted turbos might make more sense. Be curious to see the caterham 170 take rates, a small turbo 7 is an interesting thought.