Reiver

I really am enjoying this r400... have been using it as my daily driver the weather is so nice. I love hitting the 8 roundabouts on the way home from Wickenburg as the traffic is usually light and you can cut some tight ones....

Did the Yarnell hill today 2k elevation change in a few miles of switchbacks...two lanes up and one down. Years ago it was just the two lanes with oncoming but they made a one lane down some time ago. Too many accidents. 3k to 5k feet at the top.

Yes West, I have a dry sump system. I believe the earlier ones did have a belt drive unit but the late (mine is a 2012) have internal units... if anyone has a manual of that raceline I'd like a copy.

I'd go with a dark color and probably black considering the black accents on your 7.

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I am used to a DS pump being externally driven by a belt...tell me about the Caterham unit. This is internal/uses the stock unit in tandem? Location? I do not have a build manual for the car and have looked for one but only found general information manuals.

No big deal but I got them from O'Reilley's and the preset gap was advertised and was at .028. Not debating just what it was. Not meant to be a pita as you've been a great help. NGK Copper Plug Number BR7EFS Spark Plug 1094 | O'Reilly Auto Parts Warranty: 1 Year Limited Warranty UPC: 87295110942 Seat: Tapered Thread Size: M14-1.25 Heat Range: 7 Hex Size (mm): 16mm Hex Size (in): 5/8 Inch Preset Gap (in): 0.028 Inch Preset Gap (mm): 0.7mm Thread Reach (in): 0.689 Inch Unit of Measure: Each Center Electrode Tip Material: Nickel Approximate Resistor Value (Ohm): 5000 Ohm Insulator Height (mm): 52.5mm Insulator Height (in): 2.070 Inch Ground Electrode Tip Material: Nickel Thread Reach (mm): 17.5mm Service Number: BR7EFS Metallurgy: Copper Center Electrode Core Material: Copper

With my 98 HPC I looked at wear items and replaced those up front... cam belt/water pump/sump baffle/fan belt/ and sourced a new alternator (serious search) as a preventative measure....the old one still in place but I have a replacement. The Vauxhall is a strong unit and only has 20k on it...but reset the valve lash when applying the new external cam belt. Brake pads don't wear quickly due to the light weight but take a look. Trannies and De Dion rear end are solid also due to the light weight, but mileage is the issue here for fluids. Wheel bearings...jack it up and spin for noise/feel for slack. Check your rubber boots on the front steering and rear end for splits. I had a leak I thought was the front seal but was a sump issue and was fixed when I replace the sump baffle...no leaks now. Check your shocks for leakage/firmness. With older cars always start from a known point by replacing fluids /replacement wear items and a serious inspection. You probably won't find much as these are enthusiast cars but always good to start from a known point. Your 7 looks great and well kept.

The world we live in.... I didn't buy them on Amazon. Do a search...those BP7's normally come with a .028 to .030/.07/ to .08mm gap...not a .9 mm.

Mine came with a much tighter gap, I had to open them up to .9... I didn't measure what they were tho.

Thanks... the gap on the TR6 is wide ..., so is the BR7 and I took my info from numerous 7 websites and a builder that recommended the set up I described above for the r400D... it is a wider gap than normal but appears to work very well. Very smooth at idle and just right thru the rpm range. They noted the TR6 having issues at wot. I like a colder plug in Az due to the 91 octane and ambient temps.... I could try a BR6 in the winter (60's and 70's) and the 7's come summer... regardless it does run fine and better than it did with the TR6's for whatever reason..

I noted quite a difference. Going thru the work done on the car the injectors were upgraded and a few other things.... prior guy tracked I suppose. Not sure if that would make a dif but the TR6ap's were not consistent throughout the rpm range. Especially when the lump was up to fully warm (never gets hot), sat for a bit, and was restarted. Slight hesitation at low rpm's for just a short period of time, then fine, like clearing your throat....they only had 3k on them btw. That issue is now gone. Seems stronger thru the rpm scale but that is seat of the pants and could be me. The other issue for me was our gas.... 91 is the highest locally available and I get that 95 RON is our 91.... but we have hot summers and a cooler plug couldn't hurt given the compression figures. I use ACES 4 to raise the numbers and it is a good injector cleaner too.

It is best to do a general internet search for a part or question as other Caterham sources will come up.... search here certainly, but I've had better luck with a general open internet search. Then double check everything you find for veracity.

Yeah, went the same route and had help here...found a WIX filter that replaces the Caterham one.

Doing online searching I found numerous references to plug recommendations for the r400 Duratec...they mostly led back to NGK BR7EFS plugs...the regular copper off the shelf not special plugs. The Caterham provided NGK TR6AP 13 is a more expensive laser platinum plug. So, I tried the BR7's gapped at the recommended r400 mentioned .9mm. Man, I've never really felt a difference in a plug before but this was really noticeable. Nice to have others experiences noted and saved on line. That copper old school was much smoother at lower rpm (especially when fully warm) and great at wot.

That was a similar entry to this hobby...'98 build Vauxhall. Parts can be a pita but I've found shipping from England very good/rather quick ... faster than expected. The prices are a bit but that comes with the territory. The older ones are easier to work on tho, imo, due to the simplified electronics that the newer ones have.

I sent you a msg about the Nitrons you mentioned. I've put over 200 miles on it so far and it seems to drive/handle very well...tight. Yes, he had a lot of mods done and everything works well...it only had 2800 miles on it when I purchased...feels like new.

Took the wife for her first drive in the r400. The lowered floors get a thumbs up from her...sitting deeper and out of the wind. She enjoyed the blat and likes the ride. Now that I've figured out the RTB's (with assistance/KnifeySpoony) it is very docile at low speeds and great at full chat.

Thanks for the input..... you guys did the RTB conversion/dry sump on this car. I purchased it out of Washington State and the records came with it. Once I became familiar with the RTB's, sent a build instruction sheet...I've gotten them synced.

I've found the Toyo's to be very good tires...they seem pretty darn grippy around our round abouts at speed. There are 7 traffic circles between our house and town and all are 4 lane on HWY 93. When there is no traffic they are a good tire check.

Man, I hate salt...you can almost hear the rust forming. Winter is actually our best driving time.. Sept. thru May. I drive in the summer heat too but put the half hood on. I had an '83 911 I owned/worked on a few years back that had always been in the SW...never had a frozen bolt and no rust after 30 plus years.

Took the r400 out for a blat today. 70's/sunny just beautiful. I have this felony speeding route thru the desert where there is little to no traffic and you can see for miles. HWY 60 to Aguila and 71 cross over to 10. The 71 is thru BLM land and there are no houses/stops/cross over roads for miles and miles, desolate.. You can see for 10 miles in places. So, cruising at 90, drop a gear to 5th, and the damn thing jumps ahead like it's in first gear..... hits a ton like nothing. What fun. Pulled off for a pit stop and took a pic.

I see what you mean...

Looks fine but I'd go longer...I want to do away with the ear plugs altogether. Presently hang a set on the rear view mirror. 20/25 inches.... I may repack the original and give that a shot.

Nice fabrication work there....