Croc

@wemtd and that is why I am confused. Normally I would expect to see a pressurized system because you want the extra boiling point gain. You can run an unpressurized system but most engines operate at better combustion efficiency (with more power etc) at some elevated temperature and the problem is that temperature is too close to boiling point such that an unpressurized system will not work with the normal temperature variations you get using a thermostat and localized hot spots or environmental condition stresses. I have not heard that a BDA or a crossflow would want to operate at 71 degC - seems low but assume @BlueBDAJeff checked it? Cars moved from unpressurized cooling systems to pressurized ones around the 1940s. I ran an unpressurized system on my old Caterham Zetec SVT when it was running Evans Coolant because the liquid allowed a better tolerance of temperature range from improved cooling via liquid transference. I was experimenting - it worked well but I did not think it was doing anything special that justified it was a better solution than a regular pressurized system with regular coolant/water mix. @Kitcat I don't recall any overheating on this engine. In its earlier crossflow iteration it did once overheat but Stewart stole the BDA out of his wife's Elan to install in the Caterham, which is how it ended up with a BDA. So if genuinely unpressurized then a cap should make zero difference in this puzzle since it is an open system? @BlueBDAJeff - is the thermostat housing cap pressure rated? Should not be based on your earlier comments but just checking as both @ashyersand @coffee break have raised very good points. @BlueBDA Jeff - for avoidance of doubt, in the photo is the coolant catch tank the plastic one mounted to firewall? The metal tank then is the dry sump oil tank? Does the coolant overflow tank vent excess pressure? Or is it just a hose stuck through the side of the tank? I.e. it vents via hose entry? Lots of questions: - Yes - a single 3mm hole should do it - What gasket? On thermostat housing cap? No RTV - Yes to filling via thermostat housing cap. - Don't know bolt torque sorry.

Lets keep it simple for now. No need to assume the car has all the STDs that Vlad's car has. @BlueBDAJeff - Can I please clarify If its a pressurized system or not? You say it is open to atmosphere which I read as unpressurized but most pressurized systems have a sealed catch tank for overflow. Is it sealed cap? Reason I ask is first check point is the radiator cap - do you need a new one or one with a better pressure point? Good re the fan switch check. What trigger temp does it come on at? Thermostat temp hopefully? How did you test that? Assuming thats ok, then you look to the thermostat and whether it is opening correctly or not. Test what you have now in a pot of increasing water on the stove with a thermometer or just bite the bullet and install the new one. If you have no other symptoms at this stage, I would suspect thermostat as the culprit. Like @wemtdPaul noted, I am a fan of drilling one or two small holes in the thermostat so coolant is always circulating to some modest degree. While those bucket things Vlad posted a pic of work well, sometimes you need to study the cooling system as decide if there could be a localized point of air getting trapped and install a bleed valve there. Unlikely but I mention it, just in case.

@fastg Hi Graham - not enough interest to make the financial numbers work at this stage. I am exploring joining a private hire group with Steve and Maureen (ex-NJMP) in the second week of August (9th to 12th area - 2 days). If that gets going and you are interested, I can get you in - open track format. If that fails, not sure then.

@NeoBear Yes thats Tom's Birkin XS (wide chassis). Tom has made the trek east for the event for quite a few years now.

On your June 21 post, I was referring to the temp scans you did of the exhaust headers and #4 was "cold."

To confirm - is it #1 or #4? I am thinking back to your June 21 post and thinking this would explain a lot if it was #4. Steve picked what I think it is - valve springs. The coolant filter also confirms the repeated air influx - nifty little gadget, never seen one before. It also shows how the water starts clear then progressively start to lose clarity. Looks like a complete head job coming up.

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As a former resident of Maine, I think you got off lightly. Wait till winter. Ok, so your approach with Tractive would be similar to mine where the presets on the controller will be: - dry (hard/firm all round) - intermediate (mid-way between soft and firm) - wet or road ("soft" all round) - Front soft (for tires going off or balance issues) - Rear soft (as for front soft) There is space for one other preset but not sure what it will be yet. Which groups do you run with at Summit Point? Would like to try that track one day.

Mostly forgivable. Could have been worse, you could have been French! Bart - you dont really say what your car use is. All track? Road touring? Racing? Blend of track days road touring? As a past customer of Meteor, I can attest to Simon's knowledge of shocks. Meteor Motorsports - General Sevens Discussion - USA7s A couple of us have gone the Tractive suspension. Hanns Per has it installed on a CSR in Switzerland for exclusive road touring usage. tractive electronic damper installation - General Tech - USA7s I have a project in play on a new CSR build that will be track focused. The suspension is installed but the car is still being worked for integrating electrical. 2021 Caterham CSR "CatKong" - Member Rides - USA7s I know someone else on this forum has purchased the suspension but name escapes me. Not sure he has installed yet. After visiting Simon in Wales in February 2020, I drove an R400 spec Caterham with the tractive suspension at Donington a month later. It was a very interesting experience. It took me 10 laps to stop "fighting" the car and reacting to the suspension changes mid-corner. Once I did that then it was an uncanny experience. The car was nicely flat in corners yet remained supple in ride. If I slowed down the turn in, then you could sense the suspension harden up as the corner progressed. Its not overt, its quite subtle. If not on a track, I bet you would never know. That convinced me the Tractive is a better option than 3 way Penskes which was going to be my original choice. The Penskes are superb shock absorbers, I had them on a previous Caterham, but the Tractive suspension is better again. The Caterham CSR will respond better to the Tractive active suspension as Caterham screwed up the specs and made it too soft. But it was impressive on the R400 car I drove.

@KitcatWould you mind? Its not ill handling. Its just grip constrained when at the limit and I was hanging on by my fingernails to stay ahead of you.

@Pokey Correct - I selected to continue the same rolling diameter as the Avon ZZR/ZZS as I did not want to have any suspension changes or inadvertant gearing effects. I could add some negative camber on the front to enhance the way the Hoosiers work but I have not felt the need for that.

@Bartman Being a Pom , I am sure you have already considered this in your discussions with Raceline but for avoidance of doubt plus for the benefit of others thinking of following you, 93 octane in the UK is not the same as 93 octane in the USA as they use different measurement standards. .

@gpalmer77 Congratulations on your new acquisition. Every man needs an escape pod from 5 kids and a wife from time to time! Its also great to see you will be driving it as intended on track.

@PokeyYes on 13" wheels for me and Seb. Hoosiers - Fronts are 185/60 and 225/50 in the rear. I am using a Caterham CSR stagger wheel set up with 8" in the front and 9" in the rear. Rears do get a touch of the negative cantilever effect. Seb @SK400 is all round 8" from memory - he'll chime in to confirm shortly. Given I only drive for fun now, I am happy to use the Hoosiers for dry track days. No supply issues unlike the Avons and the wear rate is excellent for track usage plus they are cheaper and I can get them locally without having to freight them from Roger Krause. However, if you are like Seb chasing the last fraction of a second, then follow his advice as he is quick!

Was this MightyMike's old Stalker? Edited to add: Yes it was @rnr Hi Rahul - whats your next plan? I bet you have something interesting you are thinking of doing?

@SK400 If I recall, some of that 1.5 secs was because you changed how you attacked the Lightning bowl entry. But that takes nothing away from the tire as its grip allowed you to hammer into the bowl with a throttle lift and no brakes. However..... @Pokey The A24 ZZR wears REALLY quick. I destroyed a set in 3 hours of driving on the Lightning Circuit at NJMP. The Hoosiers are much longer lasting. You can get a lot of track days out of them as our cars do not really heat cycle slick tires. I can squeeze a year's worth of track days out of them. Both Seb and my tire wear experience with the A24s was done on one track notorious for eating tires. Your track is unlikely to be as bad. Why not try a set of those as your dry track tires and keep the ZZS for road and wet track? No set up issues then. You can then decide if you like them and more importantly if your wear is as bad as a couple of degenerates like Seb and myself.

@Pokey I use R7. I did not need to change set up but then I have a completely different suspension to your average Caterham.

@PokeyI have done both sets of ZZR compounds and so has Seb @SK400 Not much between them. A24 feels softer. Its a little quicker - maybe as much as a second a lap. It feels like its a softer sidewall but same rubber compound. The only thing is the ZZR is not a rain tire. Even damp you are running a big risk. Using the ZZS as the wet tire works well - its fine on track in the snow, sleet and rain. For a dry tire, I ended up migrating to Hoosier slicks. Last about the same as the ZZR. Slicks are much quicker. Hoosiers are cheaper and easier to get than the ZZRs. Only downside is that they are little more snappy at the limit. But the grip is good!

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I cannot solve your BAR question but I can answer that the various Caterham dry sump crankcase breathing systems - Pace, Titan, Cosworth - are all open breathing with positive pressure, i.e. blowing oil into the breather catch tank.

No Mike, they were fireworks outside my living room. Quite pretty. Vlad's engine problem is producing symptoms more like this... Not so pretty.

I think what I was trying to say was.... @JohnChAnd on that bombshell, what is going on with that rating? It was 5 stars a week ago, then back to 3 stars and now slightly higher at 3.5 stars? I'm not sure about it winning an Oscar? The lead actor flubs his lines from time to time when he forgets the script. I know they could have cast a leading actor with a better body - Leonardo di Caprio? But I would have still said he deserves a higher rating. I think the entire cast agrees.

Your response indicates this may not be a good idea for you to carry out. A standard zetec with Focus ECU and standard plenum intake will bolt in and marry up to existing cooling, fueling and transmission. You would not use Pectel or ITB. Wiring harness would be adaptable - thats not too bad for a good auto electrician. We did it once in an afternoon at NJMP. Only remaining point is sump will be standard so road only. On reflection, I dont think its for you.

I hate to think that I may actually be a voice of reason but....one option is to find a vanilla working zetec. Plug that into the car to continue driving. Then you can rebuild a proper engine spec zetec at your leisure allowing for delays in getting parts, etc.