xcarguy

:iagree: . . . . . :cheers:

You jest . . . . . but . . . . . .

If you don't have a fill port on your radiator, you might consider something like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/53098/10002/-1 The small tube is for plumbing to the overflow tank. Also, the fill port will need to be (if possible, room permitting) the highest point of your cooling system to prevent undesirable air pockets.

Plaster Denning's Point Distillery on the sides of the hood and use it as a rolling billboard.

Hmmm. Whiskey distillery. Well, I've heard of things driving a person to drink, but never of giving up driving for drinking. Good luck on the sale.

I'm holding out for July 4; NJMP is a long way from Arkansas. :hat:

This morning's mix of Fleabay listings. No affiliation, just watching the show . . . . :lurk: 1962 Lotus Super Seven standard by Birkin America and Texas motor work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lotus-Super-Seven-standard-Lotus-Super-Seven-by-Birkin-America-and-Texas-motor-works-/121320406379?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c3f427d6b&item=121320406379&pt=US_Cars_Trucks 1974 Lotus Super Seven series 4 real Lotus http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lotus-Super-Seven-sports-1974-lotus-super-seven-7-series-4-real-lotus-/281314532866?forcerrptr=true&hash=item417fa71e02&item=281314532866&pt=US_Cars_Trucks 1984 Lotus Super Seven Caterham, RH drive http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lotus-Super-Seven-Caterham-Lotus-Caterham-Super-7-/121323649393?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1c3f73f971&item=121323649393&pt=US_Cars_Trucks 1980 Lotus Super Seven 2 seated roadster HAHLIN7 Super Seven 2006 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lotus-Super-Seven-2-seated-roadster-HAHLIN7-Super-Seven-2006-built-for-track-days-racing-drag-race-/301148056803?forcerrptr=true&hash=item461dd2ace3&item=301148056803&pt=US_Cars_Trucks :seeya:

I think he's got me. :deadhorse:

Another t-shirt award and three more gold stars. :jester: Out of coupons . . . I'll spring for the coney dog. :cheers:

Croc, you get the 'I-got-the-most-t-shirts' award. MightyMike, you either get 'fan-of-the-year' award or three gold stars and a Sonic coupon for a free coney dog. :smilielol5:

Roman, Do peanut butter and jelly go together? :jester: Okay, seriously, I'd think yes, but I'm sure Croc or yellowss7 will chime in with a real answer. :cheers:

Well, I can't claim to have driven any of these, but the tracks listed that I've visited are: Sonoma Laguna Seca (I did get to jump-seat a rather quick romp across the paddock in a Cobra replica--that has to count for something :jester: Las Vegas Sebring Circuit of the Americas Pikes Peak My Stalker has done a few laps at VIR, but that was in another life and I wasn't involved. The other tracks I've visited/driven didn't even make the cut . . . . . . I live such a sheltered life. :dupe:

That's awesome. You should copy and paste to this thread.

Well, Roman, there you have it . . . . . no excuses now. :jester:

Tom, I can relate. :iagree: And my latest “It’s Always Something’ had me stumped for a bit. As you know, my March track day went well but revealed a slight on-track oil starvation issue that was in need of immediate resolve. This resulted in the immediate install of an Accusump system which, sans a leaky liquid-filled air pressure gauge that I opted to use in lieu of the Canton-supplied el-cheapo gauge, also went well. I ditched the liquid-filled unit and reinstalled the el-cheapo gauge . . . works great for reading the air-charge side of the accumulator. :iamwithstupid: The Accusump test hop resulted in the system working as advertised, but resulted in an intermittent, and finally, nonfunctioning oil pressure gauge about ten minutes into the drive. When the oil pressure gauge finally dropped to zero, I checked the Accusump air-charge pressure gauge and it showed 50 psi (engine oil pressure). The 20 psi low oil pressure warning light was also not illuminated. I pulled to the side of the road, de-energized the Accusump electric valve and turned off the car. I then powered up the car (not running) and energized the Accusump system. The accumulator pre-oiled the engine (accumulator air-charge gauge dropping to 10 psi), but still zero oil pressure. Once the accumulator emptied, I started the car and the accumulator immediately filled back to 50 psi. This was a definite indication that the engine had adequate (normal) oil pressure. I headed home and the gauge started working again, functioning flawlessly for the rest of the drive. Once home, I shut the car and off and then did a restart; no oil pressure on the gauge. Now, at this point, I’m thinking either bad gauge or bad ground, but I was a bit puzzled by all because I made no mods to the gauge during the Accusump install. However, I was of the mindset that this was too coincidental to not be related because both the gauge and the light functioned normally prior to the install. I started trouble shooting connections with a test light which revealed that I was getting power to both the oil pressure gauge and the low oil pressure warning light. But testing with the ‘test’ light also revealed that I now had NO GROUND at the oil pressure sending unit or the oil pressure warning light sending unit. This made no sense; I had not changed ANY existing wiring for either of these. Before, I finish my story, I need to provide a little car history and gauge insight. First, the Autometer gauges (all electric) currently installed in my car are the original gauges I purchased prior to selling the car in 2007. While I mocked up the dash layout for the gauges, I sold the car to Mike Sharkey before connecting any of them to the engine. When I bought the car back from Mike, the gauges were functioning as they should and all connections looked good. Second, the Autometer oil pressure gauge has a huge-a$$ sending unit that will not screw into the stock LS oil sending unit location on the side of the oil pan because of its (sending unit) size. Mike, during the LS install, replaced the stock LS oil pressure sending unit mount and bolted on an after-market Lingenfelter oil pressure adaptor. From this adaptor, Mike ran a -4AN SS braided line to a brass fitting into which both the low oil pressure warning light sensor and said huge-a$$ oil pressure sending unit are fitted. Back to the story. Test light, power in, and NO GROUND; time for Autometer instructions and an ohm meter. Digging out the Autometer oil pressure gauge instructions (yep, I keep everything) revealed that, just as expected, the sending unit ‘ground’ through the threads on the unit itself; normal stuff. Touching one end of a piece of 18 gauge wire to the brass fitting mentioned earlier and the other end to the driver’s side aluminum foot well resulted in the gauge and the oil pressure light working normally; GROUND!!!! Removing the wire resulted in both ceasing to function. This still didn’t make any sense because the sending unit is housed in a metal clamp that is bolted directly to foot well and connecting one ohm meter probe to the threads on the sending unit and the other to the sending unit case revealed no resistance, thus sending unit case-connected-to-clamp-connected-to-aluminum foot well should produce a ground. I then removed the sending unit from the clamp and when I did I found a thin strip of self-fusing tape that Mike had used as a shim because the clamp was slightly oversized for the sending unit. I replaced the tape with a thin aluminum shim. This action resulted in an excellent grounds for both sending units. :party: So, what happened? Prior to removing the after-market Lingenfelter oil pressure adaptor on the side of the LS pan, the sending units (light and gauge) were getting their grounds through the brass fitting-connected-to-the SS braided line-connected-to-the-oil pressure adaptor-connected-to-the-engine block-grounded-to-the-frame. The Accusump install I did required my removing the Lingfelter oil pressure adaptor and replacing it with an Improved Racing oil pressure adaptor. Connecting the -4 AN SS braided line to the new adaptor required my using a 1/8th NPT male to -4 AN male fitting. This was an existing fitting that had been used in the old adaptor, but I made sure the NPT end received a liberal amount of Teflon tape which, when installed in the new adaptor, broke the ground that was previously provided for the sending units. During the drive, the vibration of the oil pressure sending unit inside the loose fitting clamp was enough to cause an intermittent ground/no ground condition. Tom, as you and I have both proven, any mod (be it roll cage, brake pads, Accusump, etc.) causes electrons to become confused and disoriented to the point of complete shutdown. I believe your alternator failure is directly related to your roll cage install and brake pad change. :smilielol5:

If the Stalker comes with the built-in battering ram, I'm in!

NVP66S, Because of your excellent build thread, potential builders who were once fearful will now be jumping in line to build a Westie. See what you've started?

That would be man excellent opportunity to get into a Caterham. I've mentioned to the wife on several occasions about getting 'her' a car, but she has about as much interest as I do in Tupperware . . . We have a great marriage. Besides, I don't know how well the Storker would take to sharing the shop with a Cat.

Klasik, For us Storker boys, it's all about torque.

Richard, Contact Scott or Glen Mineheart and ask. Sending you a pm. Hope to see you at NJMP. :cheers:

This week, I tested Accusump operation for the first time and all went pretty much as expected. Testing consisted of: a) the accumulator’s ability to ‘rapid fill’, b) the accumulator’s ability to pre-oil the engine, and c) a drive of about 30 miles to ensure no leaks. During a cold start (oil temperature at ambient) the oil pressure of my LS6 is 55-60 psi at idle. After warm up, idle oil pressure is approximately 50 psi. With an engine oil pressure of 50 psi and an accumulator pre-charge of 10 psi, the accumulator filled with approximately 2.5 qts. During accumulator engine oiling (engine off/simulated loss of oil pressure below 35-40 psi), the Accusump system kept the 20 psi low oil pressure warning light out for approximately 58 seconds. Rapid refilling of the accumulator back to 50 psi took around 8 seconds. While I'm satisfied with the results, the ultimate test will be on track. . . . . . . :lurk:

I'll be sure to show up with 'clean' cavities. I'll even bring my own bore scope! :smilielol5:

Alaskossie, I'm certain Rich is very accurate regarding his own products as Bogart does offer powder coating as an option for their wheels. As for product Bogart didn't produce, I don't know if Rich could give an accurate estimation. You may very well end up running into the same issue you ran into with Wheel Enhancement Co. However, if it were me, I would do further research before I concluded that my wheels could not be powder coated. I would suggest speaking with some non-local powder coating companies. Even if you found a reputable company that could do this and it required shipping your wheels to get it done, in the long run, it might be worth it to you. Start with these guys and see if they can shed some light: http://www.armortechpowdercoating.com/

I wonder if this could be used at border crossings as a prerequisite for entry into the U.S.? Illegal 'alien' drifting. If you survive, welcome to 'merica. :driving: . . . . :flag:

I spoke with Rich Bogart (Bogart Racing) today about the issue of powder coating aluminum wheels. without going into any great detail, he basically explained to me that there is the possibility of weakening the structural integrity of a wheel to some degree depending on what temperature was originally used during the heat treating process and that used for powder coating. Time exposed to temperature is also a factor. He said, for example, if a wheel is heat treated using 350 degrees and then exposed to a higher temperature (say, 425 degrees) during the baking process for the powder coat, there is the possibility of annealing the aluminum.