xcarguy

Fantastic!!! You guys were certainly running your own race. :cheers:

I thought Scott Mineheart built your car . . . . :rofl:

May MightyMike represent the clan with enthusiasm.

The Stalkers were part of the annual Stalker Bush.

I'll bet if a Storker showed up, that'd get their blood boiling.

Great news, Don! Sounds like another resolve for the next-gen Storker crowd . . . . . . :hurray:

Gee, John. Thanks for blowing my very narrow concept about thermodynamic laws, entropy and bla, bla, bla. Now I have to revisit the whole evolution vs. creation thing just because your car 'fixed' itself . . . . . . :svengo:

Wolf GB08 Sports Racer

Anybody here familiar with . . . . . ?

The 'FIND' is goinng to be interesting. :rofl: . . . . . . . . . :lurk:

I'll be learning on this one. Curious . . . . . . . . :lurk:

Mike, I'd tell you to get a life, but afterward, I'd have to sit my coffee on the night stand, get out of bed and go look myself in the mirror. :jester: I'll be in the Hunstville area next weekend if anyone wants spy photos.

Z, Just taking my reply to your thread. The low pressure switch is a relatively easy install and is cheap insurance for quickly recognizing a low oil pressure condition, especially if you are tracking your car. The photo in the link below shows where my low oil psi switch is installed. Located on the driver foot well is the oil pressure sending unit for the Autometer oil pressure gauge (it’s the huge, gaudy thing located just behind the heat shield-wrapped brake/clutch reservoir hoses). On the right side of the oil sending unit (barely visible on the passenger side of the unit) is the low oil pressure switch (plumbed in between the sending unit and the oil pressure pickup line via a brass tee fitting. My switch is a Longacre 20 psi unit; I’ve included a link for the switch as well. http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23535 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lng-45620 FWIW, the second time I tracked my car, I triggered the low oil pressure switch (MSR Cresson, 1.7mi ccw course); it wasn't the track length that was the issuue, it was the lateral G-load in the turns. It was after this that I installed the baffle. This fix worked well with the 15” slicks I was running, but once I switch to the larger (taller and wider) 16” slicks, the light returned and on went the Accusump. IMHO, the Accusump is very simple and works exceptionally well as long as it’s properly installed and the proper pre-charge is maintained. If the proper pre-charge (pre-charge too low) isn’t maintained, the Accusump can/will hydraulic and activate the pressure relief valve . . . Ask me how I know this. :jester:

Now it all makes sense. :blush: And yes, you do have the lowest profile LS pan. Very interested to see what IR has worked out . . . . . looking forward to the photos. :cheers:

Hey, Brit, The build is looking fantastic! And I do look forward to us ending up together at Cresson in the near future. You’ve probably already considered (in depth) all of the following, but just wanted to toss some more ‘food for thought’ on the table. I’ll bullet point for simplicity: • Since you are going to track your car, are you planning on using an Accusump system? With the appropriate slicks, your car will easily exceed the G-force limit of an IR oil pan baffle (mine worked well up to about 1.2 G’s). In the following video (Cresson 1.7ccw) I had changed over to larger slicks (16’s vs. 15’s from the previous season) and was running the IR baffle and crank scraper with no Accusump . . . notice the 25psi oil light in the center of the dash. The data logger showed that I was pulling up to 1.5 G’s sustained in the turns. During the previous season, I had no issues with low oil pressure. After my run in the above video, a follow-up phone call to IR confirmed my suspension that I had exceeded the limitations of the baffle (about 1.2 G’s sustained). The Accusump was then added . . . . no issues in July at NJMP (the only track day I've done since the install). 15” slicks: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22340 16” slicks: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25172 • You’re using CBM-10820 which bolts just above the oil filter. I had a similar (functionally) Lingenfelter unit (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23555) from which I was pulling the oil temp and oil pressure readings. I initially moved the oil temp sensor to the oil pan (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23639) for the sake of simplicity (easier to get to). Adding the Accusump later on required my changing from the Lingenfelter unit to Improved Racing’s EGM-116. (http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25477). • Did you purchase an actual LS2 oil pan (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-for-ls2-ls3-c6-corvette-12624617-p-92.html?gclid=CLuB9uX78ACFahj7AodomkApg&utm_campaign=googleproductsearchusen&utm_medium=product_search&utm_source=googleproductsearchusen) or maybe an LS1 F-body pan with removable baffle (http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-pans/oil-pan-for-ls1-camaro-firebird-body-12628771-p-70.html?gclid=CPq1s6A8MACFQQQ7AodFzcAtg&utm_campaign=googleproductsearchusen&utm_medium=product_search&utm_source=googleproductsearchusen)or other? The reason I asked is that the LS2 pan already has a built-in (non-removable) baffle and you said you are waiting on an oil pan baffle and crank scraper form IR. FWIW, here is a link to my baffle and crank scraper install. For crank clearance, I poositioned the crank scraper as far to the driver's side as possible: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23147 Depending on which pan you are using, your install may be identical to mine (F-body pan). If you are not using an F-body pan, I'd be very interested in learning what combination of parts (GM and IR) you are using for the install. If I’ve rambled for no reason, please forgive me and simply write me off as a mad-hatted Storker owner who takes pride in his wall of shame (parts I’ll never use again / parts I’ve never used) being larger than most others. :jester: BTW, I don’t see a reference on IR’s site for EGM-215; what part is that? . . . . . :cheers:

I run one on my Storker; different animal but same theory of operation: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24966

coffee, I fixed that for ya'! :smilielol5: You'll have to have a foundry:

Z, When it comes to ideas (new ones that make money), I'm always a day late and a dollar short. :jester: Just looks like a fun science project to do with the kids. :cheers:

I have a yard full of these things . . . . . soooo . . . . . . . :jester::

This is what I use; been running seven-years strong with no issuue and doesn't take much brake (pedel effort) pressure to activate: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80174

Tony, A few thoughts: a) Did you check power at the bulb sockets or only power to the sockets? b) Are you using the correct bulb for the brake light? c) Run a jumper wire from the ground to somewhere else on the frame (just to be sure it's not the ground).

Good heavens, Duane! You forgot the sharks teeth on the nose . . . . the cool helmet, remember? :jester: . . . . . . Looks great. :cheers:

Those New Jersey weekends are rough on the ride. :jester:

Well, let me get this straight. He has another project and doesn't have room for FrankenHonda anymore . . . . BUT . . . . He might except trades or trades plus cash. I think Busa nailed it . . . . . . I'd still like the drive it. :jester:

This one's turning into a head scratcher. :rofl: Do you think it's possible for a sensor (those discussed, or other) to partially fail within the range of 'between idle' and 'WOT'? . . . . Or the ECU for that matter? Sorry . . . best way I know to ask this.