fastg

Clutch cylinder have a lot of throw. Think about the brake pedal, it only moves a small amount, but the clutch pedal goes to the floor every time, so there is a large volume of fluid moving around. That movement of fluid allow dirt to migrate back up to the master. A yearly replacement of clutch fluid is a good idea, especially if you have a internal style slave cylinder. Graham

Those RPM numbers are very conservative. I have a 99mm stroke in the Honda and the stock rpm limit is 7.6k I have been revving it to 8.5k for years without issue. My tuner says 9.2K is about as high as I can go and keep it fairly reliable. Graham

Mine is a Locost so I cannot answer your question directly, I can take some pics if that would help. Graham

Your design outline says 'Rear Suspension: Cortina axle'. Unless you have a Cortina axle laying around I would recommend you use a first gen Mazda RX7. Strong, light, disk brakes and LSD in later models. They are available and cheap, I paid $75 for a LSD version. Graham

Summit Point allows EV's, charging station in the pits. There was a stripped down Tesla in my group, never caught each other over 2 full days. I spoke to him and his only issue was braking performance. he could not find a pad that would last a full session. Graham

I use the same HF setup. I have to put the Honda engine in at an extrema downwards angle. I remove the leveling tool crank handle and welded on a 19mm nut. Then I can use power tool to adjust the angle of attach, much easier. Graham

I will be there. Graham

The print from Quicksilver RacEngines is highly suspect. It does not cross at 5252, and torque is plummeting while HP is going up! I think if possible you note if it's an engine dyno or a chassis dyno, makes a big difference. All interesting stuff. Just in case there is anyone that does not know about Dynos. Dynamometer only measures Torque, HP is calculated from the Torque. Mathematically, horsepower equals torque multiplied by rpm. H = T x rpm/5252, where H is horsepower, T is pound-feet, rpm is how fast the engine is spinning, and 5252 is a constant that makes the units jibe. So, to make more power an engine needs to generate more torque, operate at higher rpm, or both. Graham

Plenty of choice. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/keywordsearch.asp?KeywordStart=toggle+switch&KeywordButton=Go Graham

Locost project for sale, looks like a good build, good parts and a great price. https://www.facebook.com/groups/1556670397899845/permalink/3335503830016484/ Graham

Interesting, I learned a few things

Croc, what ECU are you using? How are your detecting wheel spin for your traction control, do you have wheel speed sensors? Graham

Sorry, I kept an eye open every time I drove past your unit and did not see any signs of activity or you BMW parked there, so I wrongly thought you were somewhere else. Graham

First track day done, upgrades worked well, better mid range power, more punch out of the corners. I actually had to lift to let some faster cars pass on the front straight. Normally if it's a Porsche or the like you just point them by. A couple of time I actually had to lift, a new experience:) One only downside is the new throttle body is a little stiff off idle, a lot of stiction for the initial opening. This made the Octopus turn challenging. I think I have a possible spring adjustment and maybe I can re-route the cable as the pull is not quite in line, and lube the cable. The 3D printed pulley looks perfect so that was a success. Now we start the search for my missing HP:) Graham

Track day at NJMP went well, it was cold on Saturday morning so it was multiple layers to keep warm. My tires are a little past there prime but the spring upgrade has been a success. The harshness felt on the road did not transfer to the track. I did have more confidence in faster corns and that was the goal. I was planning on getting some data on the last session, but a BMW look out the tire wall after turn 4, once I spotted the trailer with new tire barriers arrive I pack up and went home thinking it would be a while. PittRace in May will be the next big test, a track I like with more varied corner configurations than NJMP. First track day of the year you always forget something, for me is was the pour spout for the Jerry cans, so use what you have available:) Graham

The Sylva J15 is now on eBay with a But It Now of only $11,900. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275768200914?m ... media=COPY Graham

Aircraft Spruce sell the individual fasteners. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/categories/aircraft_parts/ap/menus/ha/fast_1dzus.html Graham

It looks like that was probably once a Self-Ejecting Dzus fastener. Checkout https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advcat.asp?CategoryID=DZUS Graham

Thinks for everyone's help, we did a quick setup after our dyno fiasco. The car is a little heavier than I hoped at 1430 pounds, I think the cage must be 75 pounds. I had setup the shocks with the same amount of compression as the original springs just as a starting point. I had screwed the right front up, the new springe are longer so I was aiming for the same compressed length adjusted for the new spring length. Well the maths went wrong somewhere the right front had a lot more preload. Once that was fixed at the very close, more my luck then judgment we got it to 39/51 percent cross weight with me in the car. Off to NJMP on April 8th to see if it makes much difference. The new springs are a lot firmer them the old ones, road driving is not harsh, but I am hoping it will show an worthwhile improvement on the track. Graham

Dyno day was Monday, Murphy never left the building. 1. We upgraded to 1000cc injectors, when we opened the adapter kit there was only 3 adapters. The injectors did come with pig tails so we cut off the Honda plugs and installed the new plugs. I do not like adapters so I would have gone the hard wire setup, just not on Monday morning. 2. we installed a 2 bar MAP sensor as the new inlet manifold did not have a space for the Honda style sensor. The Hondata has a large drop down for MAP sensor, but alas not fir the AEM 2 bar. Luckily the AEM came with a tech sheet, but the data sheet was on KPA and the Honda uses PSI so there was a lot of maths to create a selection table. 3. Started the car and the MAP sensor was dead. Thought it was the wiring, screwed around, had another sensor and that one worked. 4. First dyno run, crazy loud ringing noise, I thought we have damaged the engine. Careful checking and the engine mounts has collapsed just enough so the water pump pulley was hitting the steering shaft. The mounts had been on car since it was built on 2006, and the decided to die on Monday morning. A couple of think washers under the mounts got us up and running again. 5. After a few tested the o2 sensor quit, swapped sensor and played around only to spot a pin had pulled out of the plug. So we were back up again, but did we damage the sensor? 6. But we were never able to get the HP we wanted, compression test, leakdown test all looks good mechanically, so we are confused, we are stuck at around 255 bhp, not even close to what we expected. We just ran out of time, I arrived at 9am and left at 5:15, so it was a long day. Did get to do a quick corner weight test, glad we did as I have screwed up one the the front shock setting. Track day at NJMP on April 8th, then we will start to search for the missing HP. Graham

It looks like Ford used the Duratec on a lot of engines https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Duratec_engine I think the one used in later cars was actually the Mazda MRZ. Graham

I just finished watching that exact video:) I have a better understanding now. Graham

Next Monday is Dyno Day and I am going to corner weight the car after the dyno session. Any insight would be appreciated. Do you set them up at 25% at every corner or is there a better strategy, say 55% on the rear of the car? I did not have any problems with handling before, but I have changed all 4 springs so I am sure it will be way off. Graham

Sylva J15 un-started project on the Locist list http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=24350&sid=a018efbe527c852c4e37f92de325635b