scannon Posted January 13, 2022 Share Posted January 13, 2022 17 minutes ago, fastg said: "301 RWHP at 14psi boost" is an astronomical number. In a perfect world 14.7 pounds boost will double HP, but the turbo exhaust system is very inefficient so you don't get double the power. So a stock 1.8 Miata on 12 pounds boost would be around 200 rwbhp. Graham Thinking back it was 15 psi. The exhaust quickly expanded from 2 1/4" to 3" after leaving the turbo. The waste gate joined the main exhaust 18" down stream although according to Corky Bell 20" was the ideal length. The rest of the exhaust was 3" until it came out of the muffler where it was divided into two Caterham OEM tail pipes out the back. The only other engine upgrades were larger injectors and fuel rail. The dyno plots show the Link vs. Hydra results. Link vs Hydra dyno plots.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted January 15, 2022 Author Share Posted January 15, 2022 Handbrake Bracket update So good news on the replacement handbrake bracket. Westfield sent through some replacement steel so I can go ahead and organize a mobile welder to come by and install. Happy Days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 Although I'm still not making huge progress on my build, this week things are starting to move forward. First, mobility on my torn calf muscle has really improved, so much so that I was able to spend a bit of time in the garage inspecting my pedal box and taking some measurements to calculate pedal ratio (See "General Tech" thread here). Second, the welder came today and attached the replacement handbrake bracket that Westfield sent me to replace the one that was installed back to front. We had about 20 Inches of snow in the last 2 days, so I'm really happy that he showed up! BTW fuel can is empty! Last of all I noticed that "Kilmat" was 17% off on Amazon.ca so although I'm not anywhere near ready for it I decided to make the most of the offer! 🤑 My rationale for buying Kilmat instead of Dynamat or similar was purely bang for the buck. I figured I'm never going to get the full benefit of any sound deadening product in an open top, so I went for a good quality cheap product to help reduce the rattle can effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitcat Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Congratulations on overcoming adversity! Minus zero temperatures, 20” snow, medical problems, construction issues by Westfield, etc. I am waiting for better times in the Spring. BTW: I think an empty gas can is still dangerous if there are fumes in it (maybe even more explosive?), though I am no expert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 (edited) So 3 months after the kit arrived, I have finally managed to get some "hands on" time! My plan is to position, trim, and drill all the panels at once, and then do the final fit and rivet as needed. It also means I can get my moneys worth out of the Clecos and clamps I bought! The first job, fitting and trimming the panels. Most of the panels fitted very well however the tunnel sides and inner footwell panels did need a trim to get them into place. Both the Inner footwell panels were missing cut outs for the tunnel cross member..... ...and also a complete side of rivet holes. All panels (Except tunnel top) checked trimmed and ready for drilling. One panel seems to be missing next to the pedal box mount. I'll have to speak to Manik/Westfield about that one. Edited February 1, 2022 by DanM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Drilling and deburring the interior and side panels has probably taken me a couple of hours over two or three evenings. It has been pretty straight forward on the whole and made a lot easier with the Clecos..... .....and the 90 degree drill attachment to get into the hard to reach areas. I had trouble finding a 4.1mm hex drill bit so ended up using a 4mm in those areas and then test fitted a rivet. If it was a bit too snug I used the deburring tool improve the fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bball7754 Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Will you peel down the protective covering before you rivet to avoid it being trapped under the rivet heads? Really enjoying this build thread, by the way. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Thanks @bball7754, I am trying to write it through the eyes of someone like myself who did a lot of research but didn’t find many recent threads on the LHD Westfield Miata build. Yes, I’ll definitely be peeling back the covering when I start riveting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 8, 2022 Author Share Posted February 8, 2022 So I flipped the chassis over to drill and trim the under side panels and there appears to be a panel that is not in the build manual. I fits perfectly at the front under the steering rack, but when I look at other build threads I don't see any pictures of it installed. Any idea if it is actually used and if so, when should I install it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPG Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 It's for catching dropped nuts so they can roll under the rack and vanish. That's good for endless hours of fun. I did install that on mine. I don't recognize the loop sticking down (up) on the left (right) side. But oddly enough, the panel on mine has that cutout for it. I'm not sure what all that's about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scannon Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 1 hour ago, MPG said: It's for catching dropped nuts so they can roll under the rack and vanish. That's good for endless hours of fun. I did install that on mine. I don't recognize the loop sticking down (up) on the left (right) side. But oddly enough, the panel on mine has that cutout for it. I'm not sure what all that's about. That loop looks to be a place to attach a tow strap hook should it be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPG Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 11 minutes ago, scannon said: That loop looks to be a place to attach a tow strap hook should it be needed. Yes, that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCh Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 52 minutes ago, scannon said: That loop looks to be a place to attach a tow strap hook should it be needed. That's a nice feature. Is there a similar bracket on the rear of the chassis, or are you only expected to go off the road backwards? -John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) @JohnChLol I checked the back and you're definitely only expected to spin off backwards!! Edited February 9, 2022 by DanM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 On 2/8/2022 at 11:22 AM, JohnCh said: .... are you only expected to go off the road backwards? -John Having witnessed a se7ens only track event for 10+ years, I can assure you they spear off in all directions - forwards, backwards, and sideways. Some more frequently than most.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 9, 2022 Author Share Posted February 9, 2022 So, while closely checking out my chassis to figure out the brake and fuel line route out the back of the tunnel I came across what I believe is an another chassis issue. Is it just me or does anyone else notice it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 Should those suspension pick up points be square in alignment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 @CrocActually there are only supposed to be one pair of control arm brackets on this side. The top ones interfere with the recommended fuel line routing so I will have to cut them off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 So, news from Manik (Westfield). Apparently the extra brackets have been standard on the Westfield Miata for some time now. Unfortunately, the build manual has not been updated to reflect this, so if anyone out there has build one with the new layout would you be able share some pictures of your fuel line routing? :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 So while I scratch my head and try to figure out the new fuel line routing I decided to start protecting my chassis rails with cavity wax, before sealing and riveting the floor panels. I ended up using 3M cavity wax and gave it a good spray through each of the rivet holes to ensure good coverage. I just did the floor pans and footwells for now but will complete the rest of the chassis over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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