Getting closer to a purchase. More questions.

[MV8]

Just found this article on the subject: https://www.pgmsussex.com/_files/ugd/a3e364_2ffc471a99f8410fb2c7868da09405a5.pdf?index=true

[JohnCh]

This article from Low Flying explains the issue and one approach to address:  https://www.pgmsussex.com/_files/ugd/a3e364_2ffc471a99f8410fb2c7868da09405a5.pdf

 

-John

[IamScotticus]

lol.

following,  remembering that the S2 with swirlpot was to not use a thermostat.

Im considering a similar thing with my Xflow, perhaps a 1/2" orifice restrictor.  not because I ever had a cooling problem w a thermostat,  but to eliminate a potential failure point. 

 

just commenting, not wanting to hijack.

[Croc]

On 2/20/2023 at 6:20 PM, Saudio said:

...made a deal I was satisfied with.  

 

Take delivery first week of March.   I'm excited as hell.  Just in time for Spring driving.  :-) 

 

Congratulations!  Your timing is great.  

[Saudio]

21 hours ago, JohnCh said:

This article from Low Flying explains the issue and one approach to address:  https://www.pgmsussex.com/_files/ugd/a3e364_2ffc471a99f8410fb2c7868da09405a5.pdf

 

-John

Thanks for that.  Lots of reading there. 

[Saudio]

I have the seller testing the car for overcooling, and also in touch with Caterham to see if whatever fix is available has already been applied to this car.  Hope to either know that my car is not affected, or have the fix in place before I take delivery.  

[Saudio]

Now that I have one coming, more questions pop up.  I guess no need to start a new thread.  My first one, is there some workaround for not having sun visors on the windshield?  Staring into the sun or even keeping my head down for a long time is pretty miserable.  

 

Second one, had anyone tried adding a booster to the braking system?  The only thing I really didn't like during the test drive was how hard I had to stomp the pedal to stop.  I'm sure I'll get used to it, but still thinking of ways to make the car more drivable.  

 

Can you use the 12v socket to trickle charge the battery?  Is it "on" when the key is off?  

[jimmylukeii]

@SaudioCongrats on the purchase.  You are going to have a great time.

 

I think the issue with simply removing the key is parasitic drain - you can still come back to a dead battery.  You may want to ask Hillbank (I assume) to install one for you - I cannot imagine it would be too expensive, and it is easier than messing with a trickle charger.

[kayentaskier]

In my experience, the best solution is the Battery Master Cutoff Switch

[KnifeySpoony]

3 hours ago, Saudio said:

 

 

Second one, had anyone tried adding a booster to the braking system?  The only thing I really didn't like during the test drive was how hard I had to stomp the pedal to stop.  I'm sure I'll get used to it, but still thinking of ways to make the car more drivable.  

 

Can you use the 12v socket to trickle charge the battery?  Is it "on" when the key is off?  

Booster is a bad idea IMO. You will get used to it and prefer it to boosted systems IMO. Way more feel and easy to modulate.

 

Yes the 12v socket is live when the key is off. I use it to maintain the battery - I just put on an SAE connector in place of the socket and plug in my charger. I have a cutoff switch that I use for longer periods of inactivity, but some people don't like that because it resets the ECU and the car runs extra rich apparently until fully up to temp and the ECU can adapt. This could be a bigger issue with the car if overcooling is a problem.

[Croc]

3 hours ago, Saudio said:

Second one, had anyone tried adding a booster to the braking system?  The only thing I really didn't like during the test drive was how hard I had to stomp the pedal to stop.  I'm sure I'll get used to it, but still thinking of ways to make the car more drivable.  

 

 

I think you will find the car has the race brake master cylinder installed.  That gives a firmer pedal than the standard master cylinder.  I would not recommend downgrading the master cylinder.   

 

However, it could also be that the brake pads are too hard a compound for how you are driving.  They require some heat to provide friction stopping power.  On a track you would have no problems generating heat but on a road it can be difficult to get them up to temp.   Its a compromise if you are doing a combination of road and track.  Did the previous owner set the car for track days?

 

First thing to consider - do you need to use brakes?  Most people over brake se7ens - too early and too much.  Habit makes us do that.   If you have adjusted your driving style for the capabilities of the car then second option is look to find a softer brake pad that is more suited to road use and gets hotter at lower speeds.  Ask Hillbank what make/spec of brake pad they have on the car now?   A few people on USA7s have been experimenting with brake pads recently and you can tap into their knowledge to work out what would be a step softer from your installed spec.  Pads are an easy cheap change.   No one does boosters on a se7en - its a 1250lb car.  

 

 

[Croc]

3 hours ago, Saudio said:

... is there some workaround for not having sun visors on the windshield?  Staring into the sun or even keeping my head down for a long time is pretty miserable.  

 

 

There are visors for kit cars - google "sun visors for kit cars" to get ideas.  But its an open top car, at some point the sun will be over the top of the windscreen.   Most of us use sunglasses or a tight fitting visored cap.

 

You could look at a Soft Bits for Sevens or Thundersports sun top that runs from windscreen to top of roll bar.  

[CarlB]

I am sure you can find street pads that will reduce the pedal effort. It certainly sounds like you are driving a car with pads that need to heat up. I do have a recommendation for you with some draw backs. There is a racing pad that has the highest coefficient of friction at low temperatures I am aware of. I have used them on an autocross car I drove on the street and on my Caterham.  They work at low temperatures and develop an average coefficient of friction of .56. If you use this pad really really hard on track and get the pad over 1000 degrees they fade, but you are not likely to see that unless you are a pro race car driver. The disadvantage to racing pads is the dust. Street pads do not get your wheels dirty. Porterfield R4-1 pads will reduce your braking effort and I love the instant deceleration rate. Racers try lots of different pads and one of the evaluations is called initial bite. These pads stop fast. A lot of autocrossers use this pad because of the quick deceleration.

[Saudio]

On 2/22/2023 at 12:02 PM, jimmylukeii said:

@SaudioCongrats on the purchase.  You are going to have a great time.

 

I think the issue with simply removing the key is parasitic drain - you can still come back to a dead battery.  You may want to ask Hillbank (I assume) to install one for you - I cannot imagine it would be too expensive, and it is easier than messing with a trickle charger.

Not sure I understand what you mean here.  Install what?  If you mean a 12V socket, it has one.  

[Saudio]

On 2/22/2023 at 12:11 PM, kayentaskier said:

In my experience, the best solution is the Battery Master Cutoff Switch

And my car has one.  :-) 

[Saudio]

On 2/22/2023 at 1:27 PM, Croc said:

 

I think you will find the car has the race brake master cylinder installed.  That gives a firmer pedal than the standard master cylinder.  I would not recommend downgrading the master cylinder.   

 

However, it could also be that the brake pads are too hard a compound for how you are driving.  They require some heat to provide friction stopping power.  On a track you would have no problems generating heat but on a road it can be difficult to get them up to temp.   Its a compromise if you are doing a combination of road and track.  Did the previous owner set the car for track days?

 

First thing to consider - do you need to use brakes?  Most people over brake se7ens - too early and too much.  Habit makes us do that.   If you have adjusted your driving style for the capabilities of the car then second option is look to find a softer brake pad that is more suited to road use and gets hotter at lower speeds.  Ask Hillbank what make/spec of brake pad they have on the car now?   A few people on USA7s have been experimenting with brake pads recently and you can tap into their knowledge to work out what would be a step softer from your installed spec.  Pads are an easy cheap change.   No one does boosters on a se7en - its a 1250lb car.  

 

 

Thank you much for this.  I have on my list to ask about the composition of the brake pads, and that does seem to be a simple fix.  And good to know no one does boosters.  Thanks again.

[Saudio]

On 2/22/2023 at 1:33 PM, Croc said:

 

There are visors for kit cars - google "sun visors for kit cars" to get ideas.  But its an open top car, at some point the sun will be over the top of the windscreen.   Most of us use sunglasses or a tight fitting visored cap.

 

You could look at a Soft Bits for Sevens or Thundersports sun top that runs from windscreen to top of roll bar.  

I wear a ballcap so when the sun is overhead it is not a problem.  But when it is low on the horizon, it is painful.  I googled as you suggested and didn't come up with any solutions that seemed viable.  But I am going to figure something out, because I want to have sun visors.  A simple solution would be a visor assembly with a suction cup on both ends, but the only thing I found that was close was an aviation solution that only had a cup on one end.  That would surely fly off in a Caterham. My buddy has a Superformance Cobra with sun visors, I'm going to start with seeing if they could be adapted to a Cat.  And I ordered what Caterham calls a Bikini Top.  I should have looked for aftermarket tops first, I am sure I overpaid by a bunch.  But too late, I placed the order.  

[Saudio]

On 2/22/2023 at 5:48 PM, CarlB said:

I am sure you can find street pads that will reduce the pedal effort. It certainly sounds like you are driving a car with pads that need to heat up. I do have a recommendation for you with some draw backs. There is a racing pad that has the highest coefficient of friction at low temperatures I am aware of. I have used them on an autocross car I drove on the street and on my Caterham.  They work at low temperatures and develop an average coefficient of friction of .56. If you use this pad really really hard on track and get the pad over 1000 degrees they fade, but you are not likely to see that unless you are a pro race car driver. The disadvantage to racing pads is the dust. Street pads do not get your wheels dirty. Porterfield R4-1 pads will reduce your braking effort and I love the instant deceleration rate. Racers try lots of different pads and one of the evaluations is called initial bite. These pads stop fast. A lot of autocrossers use this pad because of the quick deceleration.

Thanks much for this!  I am decidedly not a pro race car driver.  LOL.  I will definitely look into the Porterfield pads, they sound like the perfect solution.  

[Saudio]

So, I heard back from Caterham re: the overcooling issue in the 620.  It was very interesting.  First, they are aware of the problem.  They say that it only happens on some of the 620s, not all, but they have made a modification to recent builds that is intended to address the problem.  

 

The most interesting thing is that they say they have not had a single case of an overcooling 620 reported from outside the UK.  Which begs the question, why?  They did not offer an explanation.  The did suggest, rather obliquely, that if the problem occurred in my car, they would offer assistance.  I have asked the seller to find out exactly what the fix is, and if it is not terribly expensive I'm going to have it done before I take delivery.  This is my toy, and I do not want to be worried about trying to chase down a known issue instead of just driving and enjoying.  I will report back what I find.  Thanks again to all here who have helped me with getting from the crazy idea of owning a Caterham to actually owning one.  This is a good forum.  

[MV8]

About the visor issue, an option would be to try a window film two or three inches wide across the top of the screen (depending on your height/line of sight). Not necessarily a tint, but a polarized anti-glare shield. You could trim a piece and tape in place to determine what suits you before selecting a product to install. Don't rule out anti-glare films for residential use.  If it isn't obviously tinted or mirrored, it may not be an issue. A aftermarket tinted strip across the top of a windshield is very common. Besides sun, night vision may improve with often blinding on-coming traffic when sitting so low.

 

There are static cling and adhesive types that both install with a razor blade, squeegee and soapy dish water. scotch tape is used to separate the backing sheet on the adhesive type. Easily removed years later with a razor blade and wd40 but if you have a screen defrost grid on the glass, you'd need to be careful not to cut the grid when removing the adhesive.