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slngsht

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Thank you. It can be a little confusing as I’m used to driving on the other side too!

Last night I finally got the wrap on. 
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Now I just need to decide what to try next for cooling before I do the closed system this winter. 
I will probably just give the system a flush and add water wetter and call it good for now. 
 

Anyone have any recommendations for good alloy radiators and rear mounted fan configurations that fit an early Xflow (sprint) car? Thanks!


 

 

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7 hours ago, LoTusH said:

Anyone have any recommendations for good alloy radiators and rear mounted fan configurations that fit an early Xflow (sprint) car? Thanks!

 

 

Radtec in the UK are the Caterham cooling specialists with better quality than the Caterham parts site.  While crossflow is not listed I bet they have a solution (likely the zetec) if you were to ping/call them.

 

https://www.radtec.co.uk/shop/makes/caterham/

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Croc said:

 

Radtec in the UK are the Caterham cooling specialists with better quality than the Caterham parts site.  While crossflow is not listed I bet they have a solution (likely the zetec) if you were to ping/call them.

 

https://www.radtec.co.uk/shop/makes/caterham/

 

 

 

Thank you. I’ll try contacting them and see what they have to offer!

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8 hours ago, LoTusH said:

Thank you. It can be a little confusing as I’m used to driving on the other side too!

Last night I finally got the wrap on. 
04159CE9-497E-460C-A1D8-9C1501D8C636.thumb.jpeg.e6921ea7017ae62499c2f754428292ca.jpeg
99F1999C-8DC6-4F87-BFD1-0E9DAEC6E147.thumb.jpeg.fc8b5a4500f1b584851deda338ad34cd.jpeg

Now I just need to decide what to try next for cooling before I do the closed system this winter. 
I will probably just give the system a flush and add water wetter and call it good for now. 
 

Anyone have any recommendations for good alloy radiators and rear mounted fan configurations that fit an early Xflow (sprint) car? Thanks!


 

The system you have is "closed" as long as the hose in the plastic overflow tank reaches the bottom and the tank is filled above the end of the hose when cool. No system is closed during an overheat. A system without an overflow loses coolant with each thermal cycle.

 

I'd reverse flush the radiator by disconnecting both radiator hoses then use a garden hose to push through from the upper pipe, fit a new thermostat (180f) or at least test the one you have on the stove to see if it opens fully, test the fan circuit and fan amps to see if a better front mount fan is available, restrict the coolant bypass around the radiator to force more coolant through the radiator, and add an expansion tank to the firewall to fill completely (no other changes to the system) for more coolant capacity. It tees into a heater circuit and is not affected by the heater valve being open or closed.

 

Is the dial-type fuel pressure regulator ethanol blend compatible? SAE J30R6 or 9 hoses or euro equivalent?

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Thank you for the great advice!

When you say an expansion tank to the firewall to fill completely for more coolant capacity, do you mean just a large reservoir with a single water connection (so no in and out, just a single tube connecting to it)?

I have a long weekend this weekend, so will probably try doing a system flush with chemicals, followed by a hose pipe wash out of the rad as you mentioned. Then I will recharge the system with new fluids. 

You are right about checking that the thermostat actually opens all of the way (or even some of it!). Rookie error by me and something that my 18 year old self would be more than amused at me missing. I think first step will be to make sure the radiator hoses get hot with a flush of heat. 
 

No idea about the pressure regulator being ethanol compatible or not. I must check that out. It came on the car when I bought it. I have no idea if it has unleaded heads either, so I am just putting additive in when I use it.

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Yes, just a single connection to a pressurized tank that acts as a fill point and original to most sevens. Many are on ebay for under $50 as universals or oem like the vw jetta ball type for under $20 with cap, but a mounting bracket must be made for that one for support.

 

I assume you have a copper-brass radiator, which can tolerate more aggressive cleaning and can be cleaned by a radiator repair shop if you can find one. They put the radiator in a solvent tank for a period of time, desolder the tanks from the core, insert a rod through each tube to ensure it is clear, then solder it back together again. The process of cleaning can leave a core serviceable with pin holes and replacement cores are very expensive if they can find one. Traditionally lye has been used to clean copper-brass radiators but there are other diy options though you may want to remove the radiator, mix a solution in a bucket, then pour it in to sit a few days before flushing and re-installation. Flushing is always the path of least resistance and most welded or plastic tank radiators are often throwaway once some tubes become clogged since it can't be brought back to 100% without a cut and weld. The plastic tanks are easily broken and are not sold separately.

 

I've not seen a dial type regulator offered today that was updated with a new diaphragm and claims of compatibility. It may be more cost effective to use a pump made to provide the right pressure for webers since ethanol compatible dead-head/non-bypass regulators can cost as much or more than a quiet, carter gerotor pump with the right specs.

 

 

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Thanks again. 
I topped up all the fluids and took it for a boat today without the engine cover on. The temp stayed pretty constant, but the engine bay smoked nicely! Burning off the wax on the exhaust wrap.

Im going to look into the expansion cans. Thanks for the prompt. I’m also going to see about the fuel regulator, but that will be a little project once I get the cooling sorted. 
I think I’m going to try some rad flush for the system, followed by a good hose through the rad itself. 
When I got home and went to restart, the battery had died, so looks like another thing to dig into! Either new battery or alternator (though that looks pretty new, so I’m guessing battery troubles). 
 

Edit: sorry for the questions - will move to the other thread :classic_blush:

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I've moved the battery thread here:  

 

Just a reminder to everyone to please keep threads on topic.  Switching it up to ask completely different questions and start a new sub-topic makes it harder for people to perform searches in the future and also means many people may miss the question because they are not watching the original thread.

 

Thanks,

John

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25 minutes ago, theDreamer said:

Sort of like Spotted in Santa Cruz has morphed into PCV trouble shooting. It happens. Thanks for your efforts and keep up the good work.

 

Yes, there are several threads I don't split simply because I don't have the time or patience, or I didn't notice the conversation was part of a completely different thread.  The Spotted thread is a great example of one that has gotten completely sideways.  Splitting out the registration component is too messy because of how that portion has gone, but there is a cleanish split for the PCV conversation.  I'll do that now.

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New 7 Owner in New Jersey. Been hankering for a 420R for years, but when I went to pull the trigger the price hike and wait time was too much for me. Contacted Tom, the Birkin importer in CO and he was selling this beauty for a client who had specked out my dream car, but due to work commitments never had the car titled. Tom refreshed all the fluids etc. and now I'm the proud owner!! Should be here in 2 weeks. Then I have to figure out how to title it in NJ (any pointers gratefully accepted). 

 

 

BIRKIN COMPLETED IN 2017

(NEVER TITLED)

·       WIDE BODY SS3XS CHASSIS

·       LIGHT SILVER WITH DARK SILVER STRIPE AND TRIM

·       2.5 L DURATEC APROXIMATLY 250 CRANK HP

·       ALOY CAM COVER

·       AT POWER THROTTLE BODIES

·       DELTA 400 ECU

·       T9 5 SPEED GEARBOX WITH TALL 1ST GEAR

·       R180 REAR DIFF WITH 3.90:1 RATIO

·       WILWOOD 4 PISTON FRONT CALIPERS WITH VENTED DISC

·       BRAIDED SS BRAKE LINES

·       PROTEC ALUMINUM ADJUSTABLE DAMPERS

·       ENKEI COMPE WHEELS 15 X 7 FRONT AND 15 X 8 REAR

·       HANKOOK VENTUS R-S3 TIRES

·       HARMON FUEL CELL

·       5 ¾” HEADLIGHTS

 

·       CENTER BRAKE LIGHT

·       LED TAIL LIGHTS AND TURN INDICATORS

·       BRAILLE 15 LB BATTERY

·       NEW BIRKIN BUCKET SEATS

·       G-FORCE 5 POINT SEAT BELTS

·       VDO GAUGES

·       COCKPIT HEATER

·       REMOVABLE STEERING WHEEL

·       BIRKINI TOP

·       FULL 3 PIECE BOOT/TONNEAU COVER

·       HEATED WINDSCREEN

·       WIND DEFLECTORS

 

I doubt I'll be registered in time to driver to the Oct 15th bash at NJMP, so I will trailer it there and try her out on track. I've driven my 570hp Camaro 1LE there before, but never anything with the power to weight of this beast. I see some short shifting in my future until I get acclimatized.  I hope to meet everyone there! 

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seats.jpg

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@TobyinNJI'm up by Morristown. There's an orange 360 in bergen County I've been trying to find. If my engine ever gets put back together, I've got some good roads in the Butler area we can get together for, if you're not too far away.

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Sounds like a plan @slowdude! I work in Bridgewater, just down the road from you. Did you title your car yourself, or had it been titled previously? I'm a little nervous about the process in NJ. My interactions with the DMV here have nearly all been horrific ;-) 

 

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5 minutes ago, TobyinNJ said:

Sounds like a plan @slowdude! I work in Bridgewater, just down the road from you. Did you title your car yourself, or had it been titled previously? I'm a little nervous about the process in NJ. My interactions with the DMV here have nearly all been horrific ;-) 

 

I regged on property I have in another state as I am RHD.

 

You have the MSO from Birkin as it was never titled correct? It shouldn't be too bad. Really depends on which DMV you go to. I'd imagine emissions and inspection would be harder..

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I'll have the Bill of Sale, the MSO from Birkin, receipts from the motor/transmission guy etc. I was just wondering if it might be simpler to throw money at a Montana LLC and register it that way.  

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Congratulations on your purchase.  I split time between north and south NJ.

 

I have had too many sevens go through the process in NJ.  I'd personally prefer to sign up for a daily colonoscopy than go near the NJ DMV ever again.  

 

I need to track down the guy who managed to navigate through the process with a new Caterham 360 two years ago as there are some good lessons from his experience. 

 

As for alternatives to NJ, I recommend we take that discussion offline - look for a PM.  

 

In the meantime, if I were you, I would make phone contact with the DMV person in Trenton to ask for the kit car title/registration instruction package to be sent out to you.   You will need it at some point.  However, I would not give any facts/details away on the phone to the DMV person as that individual will be involved in a completed application of yours at some point. 

 

Two questions to ask Tom C are:

1) can the ECU can deliver OBDII output?  I think I know the answer but worth confirming.

2) how would Tom title that Birkin in CO - 2023 Kit/Reconstruct?  2023 Birkin?   2023 Lotus 7 or some replica year like 1967 Birkin or 1967 Lotus?

 

File the answers away for now - better not disclose here.   

 

 

 

PS - loved seeing the photos of your Birkin.  I can clearly see in the background where in 2021 my V12 Bucket of Magnificence left many stains on Tom's then-pristine concrete parking area!  I don't think he ever forgave me.  :classic_laugh:

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, TobyinNJ said:

I'll have the Bill of Sale, the MSO from Birkin, receipts from the motor/transmission guy etc. I was just wondering if it might be simpler to throw money at a Montana LLC and register it that way.  

Has the car been previously registered or titled in another state, or always run on the MSO and perhaps a dealer plate?

 

Bill S.

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Just now, mrmustang said:

Has the car been previously registered or titled in another state, or always run on the MSO and perhaps a dealer plate?

 

Bill S.

Never titled. Never really run. <300 miles on it. 

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