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MightyMike's Stalker V8


MightyMike

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I had ceracoating applied to the rear diffuser. It is now the same color as the headers/exhaust.

 

http://i64.tinypic.com/118jczd.jpg

 

Working on my clamshell brackets now and really do need to buy a welder. I had to trim about 3" off the clams. IMO, they look far better trimmed. I will paint them Lotus Racing Green.

 

 

http://i64.tinypic.com/34ditme.jpg

 

http://i68.tinypic.com/307ywyc.jpg

 

http://i66.tinypic.com/a5klxz.jpg

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Mondo - I am not sure what to expect. If It becomes noticeable and a distraction, I will probably start drilling holes and installing louvers.

 

Looks good Mike. I never had any problems with lift on chassis #10 but I never drove it much over 100 on the hiway. Auto cross was from 70 to 80 at the most. I also added a defuser much like yours plus an adjustable rear spoiler and front spliter. That did make a difference on big and fast auto cross venues like at Grissom AF base.

Jack

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So I taught myself to weld; fabricated a couple of brackets and installed my clams and headlamps. Everything looks great except now I cannot open the nosecone/bonnet contraption because it will not fit in between the headlights. I don't want to widen the headlights any further because the car would then look like my college friend Big-Eyed Phil, so I think I'm going to end up cutting the nosecone/bonnet and have it function like those on other Sevens. Any other ideas out there?

 

http://i65.tinypic.com/rrr0r6.jpg

 

http://i68.tinypic.com/5a1flv.jpg

 

http://i64.tinypic.com/2ic0ivb.jpg

 

 

http://i65.tinypic.com/2a6plzk.jpg

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If the headlights are rotated to have the flat sides facing each other, would that make enough clearance?

Only for service, reposition before flight.

 

Also a great idea - thank you! I was trying to put a square through a square hole.

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I hadn't thought of trying that - excellent idea!

 

Mike, I had the same problem because the lights scraped the hood when you opened and closed it. I learned to squeeze both sides while standing in front of the car to avoid hitting the lights while lifting and lowering in those crucial areas of contact. I also considered cutting the hood off behind the nose, but did not do it.

Jack

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I hadn't thought of trying that - excellent idea!

 

Mike, I know you have custom headlights. I have 5" diameter motorcycle lights on chassis 21 and we put the same lights on chassis 106. The lights are also mounted on 2" tall standoffs that are about 1" in diameter.

Jack

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Headlights are now mounted to the nosecone/bonnet contraption. I used a 1/8" steel backing plate behind the fiberglass. I plan to run the lamp wiring through the holes on the brackets, over to the front of the nose cone, and then down to the bottom of the radiator.

 

I need to trim and sand the fiberglass before I send it off for paint. I'm really looking forward to getting Storker back on the road before the snow starts.

 

http://i64.tinypic.com/2vbtxd1.jpg

 

http://i65.tinypic.com/2pqmg4z.jpg

 

http://i63.tinypic.com/2llhvu8.jpg

 

http://i65.tinypic.com/sdfwnn.jpg

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