Dave W

Only the early Sevens had remote type shift linkage. Your gear box will probably be a gear box from a Cortina, the 116E gearbox superseded the 105E gearbox in the series 2. The stock Ford shift levers where shortened and bent in the Sevens. The car is coming together nicely, looks to be a fun ride.

I found a good supplier for sun visor plastic, “Pop Display” in South Bend, IN. 46614. They can provide material that is excellent for making a see-thru visors. Light Green Acrylic Plexiglas sheet that is 1/8” x 48” x 7 7/8”. Pop Display P/N 2092 for $14.50 plus shipping cost. They will also cut it in half for shipping at no cost. Their phone number is 574-233-1934 or you can contact them at www.go2pop.com . The Plexiglas comes covered on both side which helps prevent scratches while fabricating the visor. When fabricating the visor used the full 7 7/8" width, the short add-on clip type visor, is way to short, to be effective in a Seven. Also with the visor angled upward it helps direct the air over the cabin area.

To coat the inside of my frame tubes, I used Finish Feeder, which is a beeswax and turpentine mixture. I then added 50% boiled linseed oil to the beeswax and turpentine. You will probably need less than a cup to do a complete frame. To apply I just used what looks like a long gun cleaning rod, to run through the tubes. I would coat everything at one time, because the mixture will set-up after about a month.

Try advancing the TPS the slightest amount, also check fuel pressure, may be too low for initial enrichment.

If you are over cooling the oil, google Mocal thermo controlled oil by pass. It does an excellent job and will really shorten warm up time.

Unless there is a vibration issue, I would concentrate on the size and shape that fits your paw. I put a relief in the side for the thumb and a small lip for better grip.

"simultaneously add some pressure to the passenger compartment" I have an acrylic rear window that spans the roll bar. When completely closed, it increases the pressure in the cabin. The window has a center sliding section and opening up the center section 3 or 4" makes a noticeable reduction in buffeting. The low pressure area behind the window does a good job of drawing the air out of the cabin area, which cuts down on the main cause of the pulsing. You will probably need a method to tune the air flow for best results.

Copper is the opposite of steel, quenching will softens and slow cooling will harden.

I made a cup holder using 2 1/2" aluminum flat stock. It form fits to the tunnel. It slips over the tunnel with slight tension so it doesn't move. Looks like an "S" shape on it's side with a flat area for the bottom of the cup. A couple half rings to hold the cup at the top, that pivot to adjust for diameter.

I used Yamabond on my side cases, which ended up being removed two or three times a season, and I might add, sealed W/O gasket, and the Yamabond came off the sealed surface in long stripes. Just clean the surface with brake cleaner, before re-assembly. Some of the sealer will squeeze out, but the outside surface can easily be wiped off. Most of the newer automotive RTV's work just a good, and available at any parts store.

Now is the time to drill the plug for safety wire, before the trans is installed and filled with oil.

I had notice one rear caliper pad was wearing down quicker, which had a short stiff brake line. I replaced the hard brake line on that side, and added a large 3" loop to the brake line which allows the caliper to float easier plus it has made caliper and pad removal a lot easier.

Could be low fuel pressure. Check the pressure with and W/O the vac connected. Possible pump, filter or pressure regulator.

After you have completed all the wiring, you need to check the complete system. Start by installing each fuse one at a time. If you don’t have a master cutoff switch, then leave the battery clamp loose so it can be quickly pulled if there is a direct short. Once you have verified that the individual circuit is OK, then move on to the next fuse. Once very fuse is installed and all the circuits are checked, including the engine instruments, then go back and rap the harness with wiring split tube or plastic spiral rap and attach the harness to the frame with “P” clips. If your budget allows, you might want to look at wrap around braided sleeving from, cabletiesandmore.com supplier if you want an upscale look. I would not use tape to wrap the complete wiring harness, because it will be PITA to trace or change any of the wires if you do have a problem, or later want to add a new circuit. In fact, you should consider adding extra wires to both the rear and front wire bundles. lt made life much easier when later I added an air horn. Add the extra wire color codes to your notes or schematic for later reference.

Just tape around the lower shock adjusting threaded section to prevent nicks and picking up road dirt. Use your anti-seize on the countersunk screws on the disc.

I had a similar problem, with my engine. I was able to cut a little over 4mm off the neck and machine another 3mm off the top of the cap. A simple check should tell you how much material can be removed from both surfaces.

It has to be an A/F at idle or you would have noticed a drop in power thru out the whole power band Vs just the temp. If there is a power drop, then a cylinder leak down or compression check is needed. A very lean mixture condition at idle will have NO carbon band at the very end of the tip of the center spark plug electrode. Could be a bad valve, but again you would have a noticeable power drop.

The engine is running lean at idle. I would clean the injectors.

Shouldn't the throttle cable route straight under that "Z" shape plate, Vs at an angle? Also you might want to safety wire the end of the throttle cable to prevent the ball end from slipping out.

Engine Masters, recently rated oil filters, and rated K&N in 1st place, followed by Wix. Both filters showed less pressure drop an more flow. With the K&N filtering 10 microns, Vs the typical 20 microns.

A V8 oil filter will pass about 9 GPM, and a NASCAR engine will pump between 4 to 6 GPM, so you probably need about 60% for your 4 cylinder engine, to be on the safe side.

Depending on how much time you have, you might want to consider building a Seven Vs swaping in a VW engine into a Brikin. I believe Dave Watkins still has one Rush chassis for sale in Ann Arbor. David Watkins britkitcars@att.net http:/britkitscars.com Ann Arbor 734-222-9702 The only down side is that it would probably take a year to build Vs a month for a engine swap, to be on the road. You are probably better off $$$$, to just buying a Seven that already has 150 HP.

I do not have a flat tappet cam, but have always added 1 qt of Rotella with ZDDP, to my oil change cocktail. A little ZDDP goes a long way in protection, but even the newer diesel oils have been reduced.

Did RM recommend that you change to a different plug [a colder plug] once you get to the track? How about base timing, did that change at all?

680 miles from South Lyon MI. to Rochester MN. about 13.5 hrs of seat time. Failures; blow off a heater hose and ventated an engine block, both close to home.