MHKflyer52

Here is what I used for the tail lights for my car. 49 Ford pickup tail light from Speedway Motors.

Have to agree with Bob also.......very inspirational.

Very nice looking seats you have their. I have to say after looking at your photos and seeing how nice the inside of your car looks. I have to say my car looks like it is naked as I do not have any of the nice side covers or center console cover or any of that nice looking leather and now I am jealous, well at least thinking if I can or want to do that to my car.

Very sharp looking. Who is the manufacture of the cage. Hanks cage looks like the same type on his Westfield.

MAZDA E's Factory.......Father of FRANKLIN 7......

What I was trying to say in a nice round-about way that you need to reseal your exhaust to the head and giving you some info to help you make that choice as I feel that I can only suggest what to do and do not like to tell someone that they have to do something unless it is a safety thing. I do not think the steel wool will or can cause the face of the head to change enough to cause a leak like you have talked about but maybe it can...I would suspect that the exhaust manifold flange is warped due to the heat it see's. I would replace the gasket (most exhaust gaskets are onetime use) and use a good high temp sealant on both sides of the gasket and tighten the bolts down in an even manner so as not to bend the exhaust flange and work from the center bolts / studs out to the ends of the flange. You should be able to fix this and still make your track day I would suspect.

If it is leaking enough for you to know it then you should reseal the header flange to head. If the engine sucks cold air back on to the hot valves it can cause a cracked valve or even a cracked head in the exhaust port and cause the water jacket to leak or be pressurized from the exhaust gasses. This is what happened on my original engine due to the exhaust flange bolts backing off enough to cause a leak. If you want to see some photos go to this link of mine and look closely at the exhaust ports. http://picasaweb.google.com/MHKflyer52/OverheatingProblemBeingSolvedByReplacingEngine# Hope this helps.

Looks like a lot of spit and polish......Looks real good. Wish I had that drive to keep the shine on things that rarely get seen but I guess long cold winters will make you do things like that......snickering out here in the warm sunny climate of Southern California. PS: Just finished putting the third new engine (1800cc BMC...Ok rebuilt engine) back in my car and it has been running great with no leaks or overheating or bad things. Have just over 300 miles on it now and it seems that it is getting stronger every time I drive it.

Mazda, It’s also best to have the car weighing what it will be running on average. You in the seat, half tank of fuel, tire pressures set to what you know works, etc. or just set it drive it and if it does not feel correct or tires start to wear funny there adjust as necessary.

Hi Scott, Look at the top or your shock as I have seen the spring under compression such as in a turn grow and then rub the sidewall of the tire due to it being a contained coil under load....the opposite happens when the spring is stretched it gets smaller in diameter most of the time. If the spring has rub marks on it then you might want to look at shimming the shock away from the tire to help relive the rub or get stiffer springs or smaller tires. I agree with Ian7 about checking for other causes. One way is to rub some white chalk on the sidewall or were ever it is rubbing and due some right and left turns in a parking lot and get out and see if you can see what is rubbing or moving as the chalk will help find what is doing it by leaving some residue on the culprit. Just a suggestion and in no way to be taken as I knew or know what I am talking about.

Looks like a GEO Metro center cap with a decal placed on it. I have actually used the GEO Metro Steel Wheel Center with a Porsche Decal on it to replace the center caps on a 914-4. The Porsche center cap for one wheel is close to $40.00 from the dealer and are snatched or fall out of the wheel center quite often for some reason...The GEO Metro Centers fit like they were the original and only cost about $10 at the local car recycler (pick a part) for four or about the cost of one original Porsche center at the local GM dealer.

Another satisfied customer with a smile and a story to tell everyone. Well Done.

Nice compound bow he has their.....good stance and form from what I can see for a beginner. Boy when I was a kid about his age I was given a recurve bow and told that when I could string it I could then go out and then shoot it with supervision until I could hit what I aimed at of course that was quite a while ago and a recurve bow was the hot ticket of the time......times sure have changed since then....and I most likely could not hit the side of a barn today...

I have pull down to tighten shoulder harness so I tell first time riders to hold the pull down ends and try to keep their hands in their laps while holding the straps if it is at an Auto-X otherwise I jest tell them not to grab the shifter or parking brake for oblivious reasons and I have never had a problem as of yet. Oh I also tell them not to grab the windshield frame when they are getting into the car or getting out and usually ask them if they need some assistance after the first ride.

Nice looking 7 but what happend to your front fenders....in the photo of the Mini and the 7 the Mini makes the 7 look small....Nice shot.

Well went for a short drive and took a couple of photos of my car and a Southern Calif. evening. Wish I had a better camera as the one with the moon at about 10 o-clock looked a lot better in real life.

Ok Bernie, Your car is the first one in the photo of the 7 lined up at the Lodge but who owens the others.

So what have you decided to get to replace the 7.

Just shipped a car from Blaine Washington to Ventura Calif for $650 in an enclosed car carrier. Door to Door service. For some reason the driver said to go north is actually more expensive than coming south and he only runns the west coast. Try Thomas C. Sunday, Inc. 1-800-541-6601 or http://www.thomasscsundayinc.com as they go coast to coast all the time and was recomended by the driver who delivered the car from Blaine to Ventura.

Controversy or just blame it on the scales......

Maxda.....156lbs you must have been naked when weighing.....(:>)

My New BMC 1800cc runs at 167 F or 75 C and has a 165 degree thermostat in it for the time being for break-in and will be getting a 180 degree thermostat after I get some miles on the new engine and change the oil a couple more times.

Don't paint it, don't paint it looks great that way but I am partial to that style finish.

I think you will find the Boxster the car you are looking for from reading your posts. The Porsche Boxster is a very well rounded auto and should fit you better for your needs. Just my thoughts.

Well yesterday I took my 7 out for its first run since I replaced the second engine with the third engine. As some know from previous post I had an overheating problem that I could not fix or sort out on the first engine so I decided to pull that engines head to check for cracks in it on the exhaust side as it had good compression and only overheated when run in the higher RPMs. Long story short when the head came off I had two cracked cylinder sleeves about halfway down the sleeves so I would idle and run around at low RPM with out overheating. So I purchased another engine / car in August of 2008 to get an engine I could use which had just been overhauled by the previous owner less than 2000 miles before it was hit in an accident. I took that engine (BMC 1800cc) out of that car (an MGB GT) and pulled it apart and checked everything and then reassembled it and put it into my 7 in September 2008. It ran good for 66.4 miles and then lost oil pressure, no knocking or clatters just no oil pressure (held 10psi at 1500RPM and the needle on the gauge just quivered at idle). At first I though I had blown oil line so I shut it down and check for the leak but found none to my disbelief. I was now mad as hell as I started reviewing what I had done or had forgotten to due when I reassembled the second engine (BMC 1800cc). All I could figure is that I had checked the oil pump and found it to be in good shape as the repair manual said and reused the pump in the rebuild of the second engine instead of replacing it like I did with all of the other parts like bearings and gaskets. Still have not pulled that engine down to find the cause so I still do not know the real cause but will find out sometime in the feature when I have time. So to the third engine. Well I purchased an engine from another member of the forum (thanks for the great deal) as he had an engine that I could rebuild from scratch which I have now done and placed into my frame of my 7 as of this posting. The third engine holds 50psi at idle and all most pegs the oil pressure gauge at 5500 RPM. Runs smooth and responds very smoothly and no overheating problems at all. Runs water temp right at 165 degrees and is rock solid so I think I will put a 185 degree thermostat in it after I get 500 or so miles on the engine and change the oil and filter another two times. Sure is good to have my car back on the road again and the wind in my hair what little I still have for the time being. Be safe and happy motoring to all with the passion of cars what ever the make.