MHKflyer52

Well congas on the purchase. Post some photos when you can.

Check the vent hole in the cap and make sure it is not plugged as that will cause the moisture that all engines creat from the heat and cooling cycle to stay on the bottom of the cap.

That is funny....Bin their with #9....kinda hope no one saw it happen...I now have a small buster box I cary on those first outings just for that reason or I make sure I have a passanger to help push.

Heated windsields will cause all kinds of havoc with wireless sensors when on and can make a compass spin like a top if close by it....the compass. Check to see if your windshield heater is on when the switch is in the off position...could be wired backwards if you have a switch for it. Could also be switched by the ignition switch or master switch like in some aircraft I have flown...in those aircraft you had to pull the circute braker to insure that no power was being applied to the windshields when swinging the wet compass located on the glareshield. As SLOMOVE has stated the wires can cause interferance but it is the electrical field that they creat that really causes the trouble in most instances. Just my belief and in no way should this reflect that I know what I am talking about when it comes to electrical interferance caused by electrical fields or anything that acts like that......Now Smile and think how you must have looked on the security cameras at the toll booth.....(:>)

Belated HAPPY B-DAY Mazda. Glad to hear that Franklin 7 is road-going again.

If the title from the previous state says it is a 1964 vehicle then their is no problem. The DMV will check the VIN to insure that it matches the title and ask for the value and collect the TAX due on the Vehicle for Calif and then ask for proof of insurance and then issue a temp registration and tell you the title will be mailed to you in about two weeks and hand you a set of plates for the car along with the proper stickers and your done. I know as this is how I was able to register my 7 here in SoCal without any hassles. No SMOG REQUIRED due to it being registered as a 1963 model. California looks at it as a car that has already meet the requirements as a street vehicle if it is titled and registered in or from another state of the USA and is older than 1973. One thing that will cause them (the DMV) to ask questions about the car is the lack of a windshield or a very loud exhaust note (above 89db) and most DMV offices have a sound sensor near the place they inspect the VIN number of the vehicle (from a friend of mine who works at the DMV now). I trailer my car to the DMV and when asked why I did not drive it into the DMV I told them that I had just brought it into the state and had not unloaded it from the trailer yet. Another note is you have 0nly 30 days to register a car or vehicle that you bring into the state of Calif otherwise you have what they cal a penalty / fine for not registering the vehicle once it is in the state, I know this first hand due to having brought my Porsche into the state and not getting it registered within the thirty day window and had to pay the penalty which was about twice the amount of the registration. My friend told me that I should have registered it as a NON-OPERATIONAL vehicle and that would have saved me the penalty fees. Hope this helps and just my observations and not to be taken as fact but has worked for me and my cars. Just read the add for the car and it says thaty it originally came from Calif so it most likely has already been titled in the state and when they run the Vin it would come up on their system and show that it has been a titled car in the past if it was registered in Calif's DMV system. Something to check into...you could get the vin and for a small fee have the DMV run a history on it as a prepurchase option.

Hi David, I have an adjustable proportioning Valve in my brake system that I purchased from SpeedWay Motors. Here is the link for the valve I have... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Compact-Adjustable-Proportioning-Valve,1979.html Here is another link for a fancier one from SpeedWay Motors..... http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Wilwood-Proportioning-Valve-Knob-Style,6494.html I like the one that I have as I can also use it as a brake lock by applying the brakes then closing the valve all the way and it will keep the brakes locked and no one can tell if I want to due that. You can also buy pedal setups that have an adjuster (balance bar) built into the assembly that lets the amount of force applied to the master cylinders when the pedal is depressed. Wilwood makes a good setup but they are a little expensive and have to be looked after all the time plus some states do not allow balance bar adjusters in street cars for oblivious reasons. Hope this info helps.

Hi Mondo, Sometimes the rotors will get a little oxidation / corrosion on the when the car is stored or has been sitting for a couple of days. (Rotor turns gray to a rust color especially after the car has been washed then stored especially if a wheel cleaner has been used to clean the rims as they usually remove all oils that are picked up on the rims from the road surfaces which help hold the brake dust and dirt to the wheels) The area under the brake pad usually dose not have as much of the oxidation under it so if you rotate the wheel and look at the rotor it is usually clean underneath of the brake pads especially on the rear rotors due to the parking brake being set. This can cause a very slight pulse that you described if you put very light pressure on the brakes and will usually go away with in a few yards of movement unless the rotors are very rusted or corroded badly. I do not know what type of rotors you have but as the other post has mentioned if you have steel rotors this will be more evident than if they are cast rotors. It also tells me that your brakes system is very well balanced if this is occurring and that your front to rear ratio is most likely very close to natural (front wheels lock at the sometime as the rear wheels). I have my car set up so that the rear wheels will lockup just a split second before my fronts in a full panic stop on public roads with street tires so that I have steering to the last instant (this changes with tire composition and road surface so it is something that one needs to adjust for different driving conditions). Just my observation and belief and in no way am I an expert in this area so take what I say with a grain of salt and enjoy your car and be safe.

Something for you to view. http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3420 What I due when I have the time.

Wish I had the $ and the space for the car as I have always liked the lines of the Elan and Morgan's is really nice and will make some one very happy. Good luck with the sale....

Will the car bump start with the battery and ignition on. If it will then I would check the starter. I have had an MG Midget that did the same thing and found the starter to be frozen from sitting.

Just watched the clip...made my day...now all I want to due is get my car out of the garage / shop and go for a drive....

Sorry for the Hi-Jack on the thread......1800lbs is nothing for your HP to Wight Ratio...still better than my 9.575lbs per 1HP in my car and a lot of others I would suspect.

So what is the final weight of Franklin 7.....

My way of dealing with chipped paint on the rear fenders was to trim them as shown in the attached photos.....lots of rubber to bounce those rocks and junk back away....

Boy someone needs to come up with a little black box that fits in line with the OBDII port and tells the reader that everything is OK even if the system is not there.....humm....maybe a new closet business to be developed.....not that I would do anything like that but who knows what I will find out in the shop. Glad my car is registered as a 1963 model and uses carburetor and no ECU, sure is a lot easier to deal with......no-smog-requirement even in Calif.....

That is a great photo especially the paper sign below the road sign. The tree in the backround looks like it belongs to Lucifer.......LOL.

Hello Jon, Man oh man your Clone Atom looks great and better than any of the Atoms I have seen out here in SoCal. Very very nice.

Very nice Andrew. Be safe and enjoy your 7. I think the hood cutout is very well done and looks great. Wish I had the talent you have working the Aluminum that way.

Hi Kyle, A smaller diameter steering wheel will also improve things for you maybe. Tom's removal of the seat bottom and replacement with thinner material is also the way I went in my car also as I am 6'3" and all legs as my wife would say.

I think they are the dash lights.....just my guess from seeing some old old vehicles from that time.

Went to a good source. Hope he never has to see if it works.

Can one say CHITY CHITY BANG BANG....but very cool non the less.

But it is funny if you were the kid with bad grades or always in trouble at school.

That is very cool....wounder if it will ever make it into production.