WestTexasS2K

Man wish I could have gone. My father in law is still in the hospital.

No affiliation surfing and found on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lotus-Super-7-S-3-Birkin-powered-Mazda-Miata-/150631408686?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item231254e42e

another one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lotus-7-1985-pre-smog-lots-xtras-Westfield-/250852453358?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3a67f8abee

No affliation http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Westfield-SE-Roadster-/290584140586?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item43a82a1b2a

I just install Nitto Nt01 I felt they were very progressive in break away and are very sticky. Very little tread depth so you will be in trouble in standing water.

I'm sure the erod would fit

I think the LS series is the better choice. Lighter in weight lower profile and better heads in stock form cheap great hp upgrades. It's has also become the engine of choice for the early z car conversions.

I failed miserably!

Flyin Miata has conversion for GM LS series v8s in them. It looks like it would be a really fun car with 450hp with little weight change and good weight bias. Cost is the main issue and not sure you could ever get your money back or a majority of it you built one.

Flyin Miata has conversion for GM LS series v8s in them. It looks like it would be a really fun car with 450hp with little weight change and good weight bias. Cost is the main issue and not sure you could ever get your money back or a majority of it you built one.

Man that had me confused. I was thinking what did I do to piss slngsht off? LOL

I like the Garmin Nuvi 550. It is for motorcycles so it is water proof just in case you get caught in the rain. It handles vibration and is easy to operate. It comes with multiple mounts so you should be able to find something that works for you.

Sorry to hear that. Thats my profile.

Front end is easy to change to 5x114.3 set up just change the rotor hat and install lugs. The rear hubs are a little harder you can change to a STI rear end. The other option is to locate the large 5x100 hubs. There are two sizes of rear Subaru hubs with 5x100 pattern. The larger hubs has room to drill the 5 x114.3 I think it is in the 2003 or 2004 years with larger hubs. Millennium auto might be able to point you in the right direction they deal in slot of Subaru stuff http://www.y2kimports.com I currently have the s2k that was in this thread sitting in my garage for some updates. A guy in Houston is the new owner. I have a used s2k that I will be putting up for sell shortly. I have a few items that I would like to fix plus I would like to enjoy for a little while. I will be selling for around 22800.00 or 23500.00 with trailer. I will get a better picture and post in FS section but if anyone has an interest let me know.

I think 600 lbs would be excessive tongue weight on a small SUV. It's fine for a 26 footer with a Heavy truck. I think 250-300 would be a good starting point on the Tourage. My little car trailer has about 250 on the hitch no scientific method best guess. I can pick up the tounge with car on it if I really try. It tows straight as an arrow at any speed. I use a little 6x12 open trailer for most trips it's light and easy to tow.

I tow a trailer around 30k miles a year for the last 12 or so years. I agree hitch height should have the trailer floor level as possible. Most tandem axle trailers are weighted with a front bias. You are this by measuring trailer bed length and then measure the center between the wheels most will be 16-24" further back than the trailer bed center. Trailer whipping comes from not enough weight on the tounge. I would load the car until you get a few inches of suspension compression on the back of your tow rig. Just use a tape and measure from the ground to the fender then load the car and move forward till you get the desired amount of compression. That should be a good starting point. As far as strapping the car to the trailer I don't like strapping to the wheels. If you don't have the straps straight the wheels will rotate when you hit a bump and the straps will loosen. I prefer attaching to the chassis. I do try keep my straps about three or four foot long on both front and back. This allows the car suspension to work on hard bumps but controls forward and aft movement of the car. I'm not a big fan of compressing the suspension to the bump stops. It puts a lot of load on the shocks and suspension pieces. I prefer to cross my straps too. This keeps the car from moving side to side which you wouldn't think can happen but it will if you hit wash board ruts in the road. I hauled a corvette a few years ago that the straps were not crossed. It moved all the way over against the pass side wall of the trailer and jacked the paint all up. The straps were very tight. I always cross them now. You should be able to find a tube section of the frame up front to attach to. Use lower control arms as a last resort.

Kitcat I agree with your assessment of the Touareg I love VW tdi engines. That v10 make some good torque.

Nice looking truck that hemi has some umph.

Squarefour I sent you a pm can you check to see if you got it.

Keep in mind the Colorado trip I had no trailer just 5 people and a bed full of camping gear. I did pull a small box trailer back it was 5x4x12 it was packed full of gear too

Round trip average. I actually hot 24 going and less coming back because of a 30 mph head wind.

Snook she's a keeper.

Working now

Seven will work for a DD in the South but not in the north east. You would be a real hard core dude if you DD thru your winters. Buy a beater for the winters when salt is on the road and keep a nice 7 for the summer drives. Road salts would destroy a 7 in pretty short order in my opinion.

I cant get that video link to work. Spent the last 30 min redoing my account every time I click on the video link it takes me to my YouTube account page. This is really strange.