CarlB

Are you sure the ECU is damaged? It might be worth a try if you get your wiring and sensors figured out.

Opps - Thanks Croc. Sould have been paying attention. All set with new dates. Glad it isn't later, we are leaving for Europe the following week.

Updated my reservation and will see everyone Saturday evening.

I think we are saying very close to the same thing about the problem. You gave a more detailed description. You could fix the problem with rod-ends or spherical bearings at the chassis mounts, but you would have to change the mounting bolts from horizontal to vertical. To put the spherical bearing at the outer end can probably be done with a custom A-frame. The GM, I think, G body (1980s midsize sedans) used the triangulated four link as well. Croc has a Holden race car with the same suspension.

The A frame twist when the car rolls. When the bushings at both ends require more force than the force required to bend the tube, the tube bends. Eventually the force is enough to break the weld or the tube.

The twisting motion from the car rolling is what breaks the Aframe. Caterham has made rear Aframes with spherical bearings and I do not understand why they changed.

Wide track will make the car faster on track. What do you use the car for? For the street, do you really care that it will generate more grip in the corners?

This is what Ford recommends. HOAT (Hybrid OAT) Silicates & Organic Acids Zerex™ G-05™ Ford, Chrysler, European YELLOW I am not sure it makes a lot of difference if you change it frequently. Zerex also makes coolant that meets all the OEM requirements.

Mercedes pre-war grand prix cars used Nitrobenzene. If you want some really powerful oxygen baring fuel, try Hydrazine. The byproducts of combustion are way more toxic than nitromethane or benzine.

The picture of the lotus 11 shows the high-performance intake manifold from the very early 1960s. The first year or two of the engine there was an aluminum block and a high-performance version of the engine.

If it was mine, I would have it cleaned at a machine shop and new bearings and freeze plugs installed. I would also pull the oil gally plugs. If you do not want to replace the bearings. use a wire brush like a gun cleaning tool and compressed air.

I had a corvette pitted next to me a VIR that had the lithium battery catch fire. Now racetracks are not letting electric cars run. I am just a little leery of them.

That track looks like Waterford Hills with more elevation change. Great Caterham track!

I am not sure these will fit, but Caterham sells a Heavy duty kit that includes new bigger axles, sealed bearings and aluminum hubs. I have them for my car and it uses Spitfire spindles. the part number is HUR2003K

Summit Point must have changed their mind. It is all over the press that they will not allow electric vehicles or hybrids. on track and I think they even have some parking restrictions. They are saying they do not know how to put out the fires.

I will be there.

I never saw a English race car if the period that wasn't Gas brazed. It is easy to find out. Scrape the paint off a joint and see if you see the bronze.

Stupid of me. I wasn't thinking. I was thinking about torque peak.

When you are considering engines, I would suggest you look at the average power over the power band you need. The dyno sheet here are hard to read because of the size. I was trying to read the Quicksilver one because of the 5252 comment, but I want to point out the engine only has about 1000 RPM between peak torque and peak power. I have no idea what the engine was going to be used for, but it would be a dog on a racetrack or the street. It might work in a hydroplane or a land speed record car.

Horsepower and torque do not always cross at 5252. Go google the power curve of any high-performance high RPM motorcycle engine.

Lash caps work fine. All those Jaguar twin cam engines from the 1950s to the 1990s used them. Would it be better to just use the original stuff? maybe a little, but very little. You need to verify the caps you use fit properly and do not interfere with the valve retainer and the valve keepers. As mentioned above you probably have reground cams. To get more cam lift they grind material off the base circle (bottom of the lobe). There would not be any original parts to compensate. To determine what the cams are is a real time-consuming task. It can be done but it requires some measurement tools and a procedure that isn't strait forward. Was the bad lash cap from the cylinder that has been misfiring? One easier cam test would be to use a caliper and measure from the base circle to the top of the cam. This would give you an idea if a cam lobe were worn. I suspect the lash caps in your engine are correct for the application. You haven't had any other problems. Perhaps the cam was worn down and the lash cap got beat up from the cam after it was worn down.

The Avons were made for the car. I use the Falkens on my MINI ad love them. The issue for a Caterham is the Falkens and most other tires are not made for light weight cars. The only other tire I would consider for a street tire is the Toyo Proxes RA-1. That tire isn't available in the sizes you are looking for.

I like Cole Hersee switches. Like MV8 said they are made for the commercial market. You might have to hunt around for a particular switch. I wanted an off-on-on switch. It took some time, but they make it. There are lots of off-on-off switches.

The car is primarily used on track. I have owned the car 5 years and haven’t gotten tags yet. I didn’t want a key. It is just something else to keep up with. The switches aren’t labeled because someone would not know how to start the car. It take a combination of switches.

The amount of work required to this is way beyond anything reasonable, but I wanted it and enjoyed building it. I got one of the new BMW Minis in 2005. I really enjoy the car, it isn't very fast, but just fun to drive. I have had a number of Minis. I found and still own a 2006 JCW. One of the unusual things about the car is the instrument panel. Like the original Mini the instrument panel is in the center and the switches have little loops to separate the switches. There is a Caterham model that used a similar switch panel. When I first got my Caterham I got a switch panel that used the loops, but they were contained in a panel I did not really like. Additionally, I had to cut them apart and glue them together to get the number of switches I needed. Let's just say I was not pleased with my workmanship. In general, I was not happy with the dashboard layout I had configured with the old first switch panel. I wanted a carbon dash and the loops mounted flush to the dash similar to the way Caterham did it. To get started I attempted to bend tubing to the same radius as the loops I had in the old configuration. After several attempts I gave up and decided to use the loops from the original switch plates. I designed and had the plate burned out. This really starts the design process because now you have to consider tolerances. The loops I had were not bent to a close enough tolerance for the plate I wanted. I determined the average for the loops after discarding the high and low and had the holes in the switch plate made to that dimension. When I got the switch plate back, I wasn't happy. The loops were too tall. To recess the loops I made some parts on a lathe to recess the loops. That was easier than trying to cut and re-tap the loops. To fasten the parts made to recess the loops to the switch plate I swedged them. Not all the switches I used were the same dimension and the area between the recessed loops was now thinner. A little hand work got that taken care of. The stacked-up clearances required some hand work to get everything fitted, but I am happy with the result. 3D printing this would have been easier, but I do not know how to do it. I look forward to more post here. I suspect the 3D printing would have required a lot of hand sanding on a lot of small parts. I tried to upload my drawing but I couldn't get i to open. If anyone wants to see it let me know.