CarlB

Always fun to watch someone with a lot of skill.

I have gotten a lot of things from this Company Del City - Electrical Supplies & Professional Grade Wiring Products. They have AMP connectors and a number of other popular brands. You might want to look at the Deutsch connectors. They are very popular or race cars. Del City also has knock off Deutsch connectors and I have had good luck with them. The real Deutsch connectors use a pin that requires a specific tool. They are very easy to use, but you have to have the tool. The Del City ones can use the Deutsch pins or the pins that crimp similar to AMP or Delphi.

Thank you - I did not know they could provide body panels. I need to look into that. I love my car, but it has been used hard. NO TRAILER QUEEN. It didn't happen to me, but I have a hole on the right side where a connecting rod took flight.

I have what I believe is a 1999 S-3. I think I found the Arch motors chassis number and some other markings. The roll bar indexes on a round knob (for lack of a better term) The main hoop fits over the knob. On the passenger side looking towards the rear of the car and reading top to bottom it says AM98. In the middle of the knob is a hole, and on either side it says J 2. At the bottom or closest to the seat is what I believe is the chassis number 4452. Am I correct about the chassis number and does anyone know what the other numbers mean?

It is my understanding that Ford called the SVT version of the Zetec a Duratec. The regular cars had stopped using the Zetec when the SVT version came out. Cosworth developed the SVT version of the engine. They changed a number of things, but it is still a Zetec.

You are correct. The traditional way to scale a car is to get the cross weight to 50%. You can look at it as a bench with four legs. The bench has more weight on one side. If the left rear leg was a little longer than the right rear leg the bench would have cross weight or wedge (the stock car term). If you remove the weight from the bench and the leg is still long, you still have cross weight. If the right front was high, you would have negative cross weight.

Bartman, Dallasdude probably as a better configuration for you than the way I did it. I am not using an oil cooler. The oil is only 225 to 235 in the pan. The pickup for the pump from the radiator on my car is on the same side as the pump. My radiator hose goes under the steering rack.

I haven't watched the video but have done a lot of done a lot of setups. Except for single seat cars you always have more weigh on one side or the other. KnifeySpoony is correct about setting the car up for corner entry or even balance in left and right turns. I have scales if you would like to use them.

Here are two pictures. I told Gus that QuickSilver has the castings attached to the water pump. The lower part is a piece of tube. This fits under the steering shaft. Your radiator is different than mine. Both my inlet and outlet are on the same side. You might want to point the water pump outlet a little different.

The Zetec engine is very reliable in my experience. You are correct about its power potential compared to a Duratec . If you look at the bore and stroke difference and the size of the intake ports you will understand why the Zetec doesn't make as much power as the Duratec. The Duratec is lighter because of the aluminum block and the Zetec has a belt driven cam that is more tolerant to harmonics from high RPM and racing camshafts. Raceline would disagree but I think the reliablity goes away over 7500 GPM with the stock crank. You can have a very reliable 200 HP with a very wide torque curve and run pump gas. I turn mine 7200 RPM. You can put in bigger cams and raise the compression to get about 220 HP. You would need race gas and raise the speed to 7500 RPM. If you are looking at swapping engines, I would look at the new Ford turbocharged engines. There are people in the UK who are saying they get over 350 HP from the 1.6 L ecoboost. The stock 2.0 L ecoboost is 250 HP and the 2.3 L ecoboost is over 300 HP. Junk yard engines are available with all the power you need. Ford Performance sells ECUs and wiring. I have been looking for pictures of how the intercooler is installed in a 620 R but haven't found anything. Does anyone have pictures? If you really want to look at something different, The Polaris Sling Shot has its own engine now. It is a 4 cylinder version of the engine they use in their ATVs. The potential power of a naturally aspirated engine is determined by the size of the intake valves. A bigger bore allows bigger valves. The Polaris engine has a 3.50 inch bore. It also has a forged steel crank and rods. The red line is 8500 RPM and the power rating in the slingshot is 200 HP. I haven't gotten any real information about this engine, but it looks very interesting.

I will second Bartman's recommendation of Gus at Eurosport. He is very good.

I did not know about the Lotus 11 with a slant 6 engine. I would point out that the first slant six engines were aluminum block, but I think had an iron cylinder head. The cars were raced successfully against the Corvair and Falcon. No comment on how good any of these cars were. There was a high-power version of the Slant 6 that had a four-barrel manifold like the picture.

I believe you are supposed to replace the steel clutch disk surface every time you replace the clutch. The flywheel manufacturer will sell you one. They aren't that much money. Your flywheel may have been made by Fidanza. They are very good people and can probably help. The flywheel may have been sold under a different name but they build a lot of flywheels for other people.

I am sure you can find street pads that will reduce the pedal effort. It certainly sounds like you are driving a car with pads that need to heat up. I do have a recommendation for you with some draw backs. There is a racing pad that has the highest coefficient of friction at low temperatures I am aware of. I have used them on an autocross car I drove on the street and on my Caterham. They work at low temperatures and develop an average coefficient of friction of .56. If you use this pad really really hard on track and get the pad over 1000 degrees they fade, but you are not likely to see that unless you are a pro race car driver. The disadvantage to racing pads is the dust. Street pads do not get your wheels dirty. Porterfield R4-1 pads will reduce your braking effort and I love the instant deceleration rate. Racers try lots of different pads and one of the evaluations is called initial bite. These pads stop fast. A lot of autocrossers use this pad because of the quick deceleration.

I totally agree the artist was not trying to represent the cars perfectly. The paint on the car I believe is the artist interpretation of a Scarab that looks like the cars raced by Reventlow. The gentleman who put the team together that created the car. Art is subjective. I also believe the artist was trying to create a time line. And the Scarab placement is appropriate between a Allard and a I think a M8 McLauren.

Totally agree with this statement, but I think the number 1 car is a Sarab.

You will gain ground clearance in comparison to a lot of wet sump pans, but not all. To lower the engine, you will need to make new motor mounts. You will also want to consider the drive shaft angle change. The engine transmission is mounted at an angle and the differential is mounted at the opposite angle. This is done to make the universal joints work. You might want to look at how low your flywheel is in relation to the oil pan. That might determine how low you can go. Dry sump systems use an external pump with a belt. this can be a reliability issue. If the car sits for a period of time all the oil can drain out of the tank and into the oil pan. The best thing and primary reason to use a dry sump is not losing oil pressure when the oil sloshes away from the pickup tube when you are cornering hard.

I agree with MV8 the hose is not the best for gas and will eventually fail. The Fragola hose is made for modern gasoline but is very difficult to push on the fittings. If or when you want to change this line, I would suggest using AN fittings.

I would need more information to say anything about the fitting that screws on. The fitting that attaches to the fuel rail is available from Dorman. The fittings are made for Nylon fuel line, not what you are showing. If the other end of the hose hooks up to a metal fuel line you can get a connector to use nylon fuel line. Russell is an aftermarket company that makes AN fittings and hoses. They have a fitting that will attach to your fuel rail and let you convert to 37 degree AN fittings.

You can’t get a car tagged in Virginia without a windshield, wipers, and defroster. Caterham has a heated windshield for the defroster.

Light flywheel is a big deal. You want to get that.

I got rid of my ignition switch because I didn't want anything else to keep up with at the track. I really do not believe anyone could steal the car the way my switch panel is configured. Nothing is marked and the ignition and fuel pump are separate switches. I have extra ones and could make it so they would have to flip some more switches, but I am not going to get that far from the car. The kill switch is a safety thing for the track. You do not need it to do track days. It is an extra layer of protection. The switch I have did not come from Caterham. It is very popular with racers, and it might be the same as Caterham, but you will need to check to make sure the knob or key comes out. Not all the disconnect switches have a key.

I do not think there is that much difference in the sound between side and rear exit exhaust. The disconnect switch is for racing in general. On my car I eliminated the normal key and use the disconnect switch key. The point of a shift light is so you do not have to take your eyes off the road (track) and look at the tachometer. I do not use it on the street. I think the ride is better on the 13-inch wheels. They are lighter and if you are looking for ride quality you can get tires with taller sidewalls. There is more tire selection with 15-inch wheels. it is adjustable but the 15-inch wheels generally give you more ground clearance. If you want to use the car on track get the big brakes. They are not needed on the street. The regular brake calipers are iron and the upgraded brake calipers are aluminum. there isn't much weight difference. IF I were to guess I would say the upgraded brakes are lighter.

You might try adding a lot of caster to improve the straight line feel. Mercades on some of their cars with reciprocating ball steering uses 6 degrees.

I checked some old tire guides. Once Apon a Time I was in the tire business. For a 3.5-inch wheel the recommended tire is 145.